Ok here is the COMPLETE JOURNAL for beginners/intermediate methamphetamine dreamers. This is ALL that you will need. Here is how it works the First section is written by Wicked_Rain. He discusses how to acquire and clean your precursors. This includes Psuedoephedrine, Red Phosphors, and Iodine Crystals. After his Section is THE NEWLY RE_WRITTEN Acidmelt SLACKER Synth. It was just recently fixed up to be even more easy to understand and follow. I hope you enjoy it. SWIA tweaked it out just right for you, and there should be no problems following it. Lastly I included Jams A/B write up. Now in the acidmelt slacker synth there is its own A/B that acidmelt wrote. But if you wish you can substitute the a/b in acidmelts synth for Jams A/b writeup. Use whatever one is easiest for you to understand. Bee SAFE and have fun in your dreams. Remember that none of this is for real life, none of us have ever done this. Its illegal and dangerous. With that being said �. READ ON!!!!!!!! !

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First let me introduce you to SWIM. SWIM is: Someone Who Isn`t Me.

PART 1A: Acquiring Red Phosphorous
below is SWIM`s own writeup, the long version. totally complete for the new chef and in laymans terms. safety tips included, simple do`s and don't`s that may save the learning chef from harms way. hate to have anyone wind up looking like a match thats already been struck. to the old masters of the game the write up may seem a bit long winded and silly at times but this write up is NOT for you as SWIM is sure you have mastered the RP from MB technique.
heres what SWIM`s insane friend in the big city does.
take your 1000 (1 case) matchbooks and remove the matches by opening the book and ripping out the matches. that will leave you with just the complete cover in your hand. you will get fast and efficient at this with practice. be CAREFUL during this stage, you don't want several hundred ripped out matches catching fire. don't have more than one book in your hand at a time. SWIM`s friend grabs ONE book flips it open holds it in left hand rips matches out with his right hand, throws em in container next to him. the container SWIM uses is a heavy gauge plastic with a tight fitting lid so if you do have a fire in the container the lid can be slammed on thereby smothering the fire. he has seen people rip out matches drop em in there lap etc. and have 4 or 5 empty covers in left hand (which still contains the striker remember) and then next thing you know a book being ripped out accidently catches one of the strikers in left hand and WOOSH. if they are stacked in your lap you can imagine how bad it can be. so one at a time only and don't stack em in your lap. DO NOT open more than one box of 50 at a time for the same reasons. when you are done you will have 1000 strike covers stacked on there sides (minus the matches) in the little cardboard boxes the match books originally came in. 1000 usually fits in 2 of the boxes. next take your good sharp med. size scissors. (fiskars seem to be best in quality) now take ONE at a time and cut the short side off. SWIM`s friend grabs one cover in left hand holding in a way that theres 2 inches or so of cover then the strike pad then a short inch or so of cover (the end where the staple was holding in matches) towards his right hand. cut off the short end right exactly on the line you don't want none of the paint/ink from the cover design with your strike pad. next cut it above the strike pad again exactly on the line. when you cut the strike pad off let it fall into a container by itself (SWIM`s friend uses one of the cardboard boxes that originally held 50 books) sure when you cut them you can cut 3 or 4 at a time but SWIM will take the time to explain why you shouldn't. if you cut more than one at a time the others will move slightly underneath the top one and you will end up with part of the RP cut off on the bottom and part of the paint/ink left on the top of the pads the more you try and cut at once the more pronounced this effect will become towards the last one in the stack. try a few and you will see, or better yet do it as SWIM is telling you since he took the time to type all this shit out in about as layman terms as he can lay it. like he said above, with practice you will become very fast at this. SWIM`s friend and SWIM can do 10 cases (10,000) books in about 4 hours 15 min.. now at this point you should have 1000 strike pads in front of you. SWIM`s friend in the big city now takes them and dumps them in a colander (one of those things you drain spaghetti in) bounce them around in there letting all the little pieces of paper cuttings and the little cardboard pellet looking things from where the staple went thru to hold the matches in originally. you will see when they quit falling out of colander. now its time for the removal of the RP from the strike pads:
PART 1B:
if you are only doing a 1000 books take a quart jar the kind that the mouth is the same diameter as the jar. (skippys peanut butter jars work great)...(the necked down mouths work but its a little harder to get your strike pads out when they are done being soaked) put the pads in the jar, fill with hot water to about 3 inches above the pads. put the lid on, shake the hell out of them. immedieatly pour off the hot water, dont let them soak in the hot water more than 2 minutes or to much paper pulp is introduced. pour off the hot water and discard. now pour acetone or denatuered alcohol on them and shake the hell out of them. let them sit 20 minutes or so and shake them again. all the RP should now be off the pads and you can remove the strike pads. SWIM`s friend uses stainless steel serving tongs to grab a small heap of pads swish them gently around in tone (making sure no clumps of RP are stuck in them) then remove them. repeat this untill all the strike pads you can see are removed. add a little bit more fresh tone and shake the shit up good let it set for a short. now you should have before you a one quart jar with a 1/4 inch or so of reddish/brownish goop/powder on the bottom and 2 to 4 inches of medium to dark maroon tone. you will notice that no matter how long it sets the tone will not lighten up and still look as if it has some RP suspended in it. if it does its miniscule and not worth fuckin with. siphon the tone off into waste can. after that take the RP and put it in a jar and pour in muriatic acid to a couple inches above the RP. bring it to a boil (outside of course) for 5 min or so and then rinse it with DH2O untill you've ran at least a quart thru it. you shouldn't be able to smell ANY muriatic only the unmistakable smell of RP. dry it TOTALLY and its ready to rock. another way that works is take the RP and put it in a 250 to 500 ml boiling flask. (or whatever is large enough to hold the amount you have and hold up to the LOW heat) for every 10 grams of RP put in 1/8 to 1/4 teaspoon of RD lye. add DH2O untill the RP is covered by a 2 or 3 inchs. put it on the hotplate (outside of course) and cook it for 2 hours on LOW LOW heat DO NOT let it boil and DO NOT let the water cook out as the lye will want to erupt if it gets to hot or runs low on water. the lye will cook out of the mix and the caustic nature of it will burn everything out of the RP that isnt RP. keep a close eye on the shit and add more DH2O as needed to keep the RP covered. DO NOT leave it unattended as it will try to climb out of the flask and the flask will need to be removed from the heat and swirled for a few seconds untill it subsides then returned to heat. wash it WELL with DH2O afterwards. run the RP thru a fine sieve strainer to powder it SWIM always does this when it has a miniscule amount of moisture left in it as waiting till its totally bone dry makes the little chunks fly everywhere when you try and run them thru the sieve. after its ran thru the fine sieve dry it the last little bit to bone dry, weigh it and store it in an airtight container. write the weight of the RP on the container you store it in then you dont have to remember.
SWIM`s friend usually yeilds 7 to 10 grams (per 1000 books) of super clean RP this way. as its drying you should grab the bowl every once in awhile and gently mash up the large lumps as they are easier to mash up when its damp than when its bone dry. when hes done its all usually the size of pinheads and smaller and ready for the fine sieve mentioned above. this may seem like a long difficult way to do it but trust me its not. the more you do it the faster you will get. typing all this seems more of a pain in the ass to SWIM than doin the matches... if you are gonna do more than a 1000 books do it in more jars or get a gallon jar, no big deal.
there ya go. simple as it gets. as you do it more and more you will naturally devolop your own little twists and methods and polish and refine your technique. well, some people will but most WILL fail miserably at it and fail at the other steps as well. if everyone could do it then it would be everywhere and wouldnt be worth 2 bucks a gram. if you find yourself to be one of those guys that just cant get it right don`t despair. find a true friend that you trust and teach them the methods you find here and at rhodium and the hive and sponsor them if they have what it takes. SWIM was lucky and took to it like a duck to water. ALWAYS work safe and THINK as you work. it dont take much of a temporary lapse of your power station to bring on disaster and possibly cost you your life and/or liberty.
ACETONE IS A VERY DANGEROUS/FLAMMABLE CHEMICAL AND WILL FLASH TO FIRE WITH LITTLE PROVACATION AND NO WARNING.
DO NOT HEAT IT IN THE MICROWAVE.
DO NOT SMOKE AROUND IT.
EXTINGUISH ALL PILOT LIGHTS ON GAS APPLIANCES (stove top, oven & hot water heater) BE AWARE OF THE FURNACE/HEATING SYSTEM, MOST FORCED AIR UNITS HAVE NO PILOT BUT DO HAVE AN ELECTRONIC IGNITION. TURN IT OFF. YOU MAY HAVE BASBOARD HEAT AND THINK ITS ALL GOOD HOWEVER SOMEWHERE THERES A BOILER THAT HEATS THE LIQUID BEING PUSHED THRU THE BASEBOARD. ITS USUALLY IN THE BASEMENT OR LOWEST PART OF THE HOUSE, THE SAME PLACE THAT THE ACETONE/SOLVENT FUMES WILL MIGRATE TO. IF YOUR NOT SURE WHAT TYPE OF HEAT YOU HAVE OR WHERE THESE APPLIANCES ARE LOCATED MAYBE YOU SHOULD NOT BE ATTEMPTING THIS.
MAKE SURE THERE IS ADEQUATE VENTILATION AND REMEMBER, THE FUMES WILL HUG THE FLOOR AND CAN IGNITE FROM SCOURCES FAR FROM YOUR WORK AREA.
READ THE WARNINGS ON THE CAN AND FOLLOW THEM. THEY MAY SAVE YOUR LIFE, YOUR HOME, YOUR FAMILY, THEY DONT PRINT THE SHIT ON THE CAN CUZ IT LOOKS COOL. THIS SHIT IS NOT CHILDS PLAY.
FOR YOUR OWN SAFETY HEED SWIM`s WORDS
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PART 2A: Extracting Psuedoephedrine from cold/sinus pills
Chems Needed:
TCE= available at your local auto parts store as BRAKLEEN or ELECTRAMOTIVE made by the CRC company. ingrediants are:
Tetrachloroethylene CAS# 127-18-4 & carbon dioxide CAS# 124-38-9
the tetra is the chemical the carbon dioxide is the propellent. if you are looking at the right can (red & black with a black cap) then these will be the ingrediants. NO SUBSTITUTIONS
Japan Dryer is used when applying varnish or shellac in humid weather. it is added to the varnish or shellac to speed up the drying process. available at hardware stores in the paint section. ingrediants are: Napathenic Salts, Petroleum Distillates.NO SUBSTITUTIONS
the mix desired is 10 to 1
100 ml TCE 10 ml JD per 100 count of 60 mg pills. spray into a clean empty jar the needed amount of TCE. pour in the premeasured amount of JD. shake well and then pour it on the pill mass in the other jar. let it soak with stirring for 3 minutes NO MORE THAN 3 MINUTES. got it? good.
here is the step by step SWIM did in his test run complete with list of active ingrediants and inactives.
ACTIVE INGREDIANTS:
Psudoephedrine HCL .60 mg
tripolidine 2.5 mg
INACTIVE INGREDIANTS:
methylcellulose
lactose
magnesium stearate
polyethylene glycol
silica gel
starch
stearic acid
titanium dioxide
1...ground up 96 (4 boxes of 24 ct) pills with mortar and pestle to a fine powder.
2...passed thru a fine sieve used in canning jellies (its all plastic and works great)
3...measured out 100 ml TCE and 10 ml japan drier. mixed together well and poured onto pill powder in 1 pint jar. stirred well and let set THREE minutes.
4...poured entire jar contents thru a funnel with a single filter and no plug. pill mass was an ugly sorta pale blue/grey. sprayed sides of filter down with TCE from the spray can with tube attached. when all pill mass was in bottom of filter it was removed twisted and rung out.
5...opened filter and spread pill mass out on glass plate. as it dried the small clumps were chopped smaller with razor blade. it was left to set untill it was totally bone dry.
6...the dried pill mass was passed thru the fine sieve again. (a side note of caution here, to avoid the wrath of the wife buy your own fine sieve strainer from canning section of store. dont use hers as it will smell of japan drier untill the end of the time)
7...placed pill mass in clean pint jar. poured in 250 ml of denatured alcohol. stirred let set untill clear. decanted, evapped,
repeated two more times.
8...took the bone dry scrapings from 3 evaps (they were ugly blue/grey (but SWIM had faith and was not worried) ran them through the fine sieve strainer again, poured 100 ml of COLD DRY acetone on the crystals and stirred and stirred and voila white crystals crashing out of tone and the tone was now the ugly blue/grey color. decanted tone, spread crystals out on plate to finish drying and they were beautiful snow white crystals. SWIM had to put on his sunglasses they were so white. they were again passed thru the fine sieve strainer, weighed and stored in an airtight, light proof container. ready to join the other two reagents in the flask when the time comes.
IMPORTANT NOTES:
1. this extraction method was formulated for white 60`s. reports have come in that say it works across the board on a multitude of pills including redhots (deredded 1st of course) and 120`s. these reports are from very reliable scources however SWIM has only done it personally on white 60`s which it was designed around and for. if you dont know what white 60`s , redhots and 120`s are then you are no where near ready to do this and need to research further in labtips. do your research 1st by reading thru all the past pages in labtips. read ALL the threads. the information there is invaluable. then when you have questions about your research post your questions in a thread. the folks there will gladly help. however be warned that questions asked without research 1st such as: "hey man i need a quick easy recipie to make meth" or: "ive searched and searched and cant find -fill in the blank-". posts such as these will be promptly ignored or will result in you being flamed to a crisp, most likely the latter. and believe SWIM the folks there will know if you have done your homework and are in need of help or if you are simply trying to go the easy lazyass way. they are not easily fooled as they have been doing this for a long time. some of them longer than some of you have been alive.
2. it is very important that at the beginning and between each step where noted the pill mass be passed thru the fine sieve strainer. chopping with a razor blade or crushing with mortar and pestle simply wont get it. the mass needs to be powdered as fine as possible to insure that the entire surface area comes into contact with the chemical in each step. any small chunks will hold gakk, crap, trash, heavy metals etc. DO NOT skip these fine sieve strainings where they are called for. a plastic sieve used for straining jellies is available in the canning section of most large stores that sell canning supplies and works the best. a small metal sieve can be used as well however metal is generally a no-no as the reaction with most chems with the metal is not a good one. if metal must be used make damn sure that what your passing thru it is bone dry 1st.
UPDATE-3/31/04:
SWIM has taken to combining his 3 denat pulls into one jar instead of evapping them seperatley. SWIM adds the denat lets it settle out, siphons it off. adds denat to pill mass again, settles, siphons off, combines with 1st pull. repeats again. once 3 pulls have been collected in 1 jar SWIM then runs the 3 pulls thru fine filtration. SWIM`s fine filtration device is simply a HEET bottle with the bottom cut out and 6 or 8 cotton balls stuffed into the long heet bottle neck. SWIM packs them into the neck SUPER tight. SWIM uses a ringstand clamp clamped onto the heet bottle neck to hold it securley above the mason jar. if you just let it dangle in the jars mouth the long neck reachs almost to the bottom of the jar, you dont want this. so devise an apperattus to hold the HEET bottle. you can use a regular funnel if need be. a regular funnel is the originol way and works great but only holds a half cup of juice. SWIM likes his HEET bottle set up cuz he can pour in almost a pint of juice at once and walk away while it does its slow drip. in most cases SWIM only has to fill the inverted HEET bottle twice and all his juice is fine filtered. with the small regular funnel SWIM found himself having to fill it 8 or 10 times to get all the juice filtered. when all the juice from the 3 pulls has passed thru the fine filtration device then SWIM evaps it. scrapes up the crystals, makes sure they are totally dry, runs the crystals thru a fine sieve to powder them and then runs them thru the acetone wash. you will notice in most cases the tone takes on a blue green hue and the crystals are snow white. after a few min of being stirred in the acetone bath they are poured thru a single coffee filter. filter is wrung out and then crystals are spread on a plate to dry again. when dry SWIM again passes them thru a fine sieve to powder them, weighs them and at this point compares weight with what he should have gotten from the pill mass. if weight is far short SWIM does a 4th pull on the pill mass. if weight is within a couple grams or less from the expected return SWIM calls it good and chucks the pill mass. many say to save all these pill mass remainders untill several are saved up and then do a pull on them combined. SWIM says fuck that dont keep that shit around. its not worth this shit being found for a few grams of E. if the juice is at all cloudy pass it thru the fine filtration again. do it as many times as it takes untill it is clear as water. failure to do so will result in E that is unclean. if after two or 3 filterings it still has a cloudy look then pack more cotton balls in your filtration apperattus and make them tighter. when proper it should be a slow dripwith 1 or 2 seconds between drips. if it runs thru in a stream no matter how small its not packed tight enough.
there ya go young grasshoppers, another tidbit from the crew at upallnite productions & stucktomyshoe inc. to make your life a little bit easier.
remember this info is all hypothetical and was gathered from a dream state, compacted and found stuck to the dreamers shoe upon awakening. actual use of this info could land you in jail or worse.
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PART 3A: Acquiring I2 Crystals
I2 Crystals are available in several places however it is a very watched product. meaning it is tracked heavily by law enforcment. ordering it off the net etc. is very risky. do so at your own risk. when your setting in a prison cell with Ben Dover grinnin at you, remember SWIM warned you. what will be covered here is extracting your own I2 crystals from tincture.
NEEDED ITEMS: 1 pint 7% iodine tincture, 1 pint 3% hydrogen peroxide, 2 cups of distilled water, 1 ounce muriatic acid.
in a gallon jar (half gallon minimum) pour in the 7% iodine tincture, then pour in the 2 cups DH2O, stir it well. next pour in the 1 ounce of muriatic acid, stir it well. let it set for 15 minutes stirring every few minutes. now pour in 12 ounces (3/4 of the pint) of the hydrogen peroxide slowly while stirring. seal the jar. if the lid is metal place a plastic baggie over the jar opening before you screw on the lid. if you have no lid a baggie over the opening and a rubber band twisted tight around the neck will work. put it in a cool place that it wont be disturbed for 12 hours. after 12 hours you will see your crystals in the bottom of the jar. pour the liquid into a new jar add the remaing 4 ounces of peroxide and a capfull of muriatic acid seal the top again and put it away for another 12 hours. there will be another small batch of crystals to harvestfrom this. now take a gallon of DH2O and pour it in the jar with the crystals. pour the contents thru a funnel with a single coffee filter in it. it will drain slowly but patience is the key to success. when all the crystals are in the filter and the last of the liquid is drained pour in DH2O untill the funnell is full and let it drain. do this at least 4 times. SWIM does it 8 times. now take the wet crystals and filter out of the funnel, gentley squeeze out most of the water being careful not to tear the filter. at this point SWIM takes 10 paper towels and folds them in half, places the filter in them and folds them over the filter. he then presses the water out. when the paper towels are wet he repeats the process. when no more moisteure can be squeezed out this way he then places the filter in 1 paper towel closes it up and places it in a jar and pours damprid over the whole thing and lets it set 24 hours. when the crystals are removed from the damprid they are bone dry and ready to go into there storage container. SWIM recomends wearing gloves, chem goggles and working over wax paper. this will make cleanup a breeze.
so there it all is in a nutshell. if your after a quick easy way then you are in the wrong place. there is no quick easy way. if there was everyone and his brother would be doing it. the only quick easy way is to hit the street and buy the trashy cut shit you will find there. or take the time, learn the craft, and behold the best shit you have ever done with the pride of knowing you done it yourself. the game has its rules follow them and be rewarded. dont follow them and go to prison or the morgue or at the very least wind up with nothing,
hell these are possibilities even if you do follow the rules. remember that.

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Acidmelts Slacker Reaction REVISED 4-25-2004
by Acidmelt
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Acidmelts Slacker Reaction
This reaction is brought about the same as every other push/pull rxn in the book. You have to know how to extract psuedoephedrine(E) and clean it, you have to know how to extract the red phosphorus(RP) off matchbooks (or where ever you get it from), and how to properly clean the red phosphorus. you must also know how to clean up your iodine(I2) to a proper grade.
As far as the cleaning of the E goes I would have to recommend using Wicked Rains TCE/JD Method, as it is quite new and will work with the latest pill formulas that the D.E.A. has released. Jam has a good A/B write up as well, you can use his or the one that I have written here. After the cook and A/B you have a choice to get it into Hcl form (salt form), you can either titrate with diluted Murry (muriatic acid) or you can gas with HCL gas. If you�re a beginner then I would recommend starting with titration. I will cover that later in the text.
I am not going to go into how to do these procedures (cleaning E, RP, I2) as they are covered in seperate pages on Totse. With this easy to follow synth, I will start at mixing the reactants and where to go from there. Keep in mind that this is only a dream and a very simple dream at that. I have never tried this and I have never met someone that has tried it. Its just well organized thoughts in a well organized matter. I don't condone this activity or any illegal activity for that matter. Don't try this at home.
What you will need:
Precursers:
1.Psuedoephedrine or Ephedrine (E)
2. Red Phosphorus (RP)
3.Iodine Crystals (I2)
Equipment:
1.Flask with nipple connection
2.Stopper (that fits the flask)
3.Electric Burner
4.Candy Thermometer
5.1and 1/2ft. of plastic tubing to fit on the nipple of your flask AND a balloon (regular balloon)
6.Separatory Funnel
7.Chemical Resistant latex gloves
8.Visionware Glass Bowl or pot.
9.Regular cooking pot
10.Distilled H2O and Ice
11.RedDevil Lye
12.Hydrocloric acid (Muriatic Acid)
13.Duct Tape
14.Litmus Paper
15.Non-Polar Solvent (VM&P Naptha, Toluene...)
ok here is how it goes... Put your gloves and glasses on. Use the 1 part E, to 1.2 parts I2, to .8parts RP ratio for reactions under 1oz. So for example you would use 10g of E, 12g of I2, and 8g of RP. First take the RP and the E and mix well in a plastic baggie. Take this and pour it into your flask, covering the bottom of it. Now put this flask in an ice bath. This consists of filling the bottom of a bowl or sink with ice and cold water. Set your flask in this. Now you are going to add a little DH20. Add about 2ml to 2.5ml if you are doing over 10 grams and under 1oz of E. If you are using less than 10g or E then you want to add about 1ml to 1.75ml of DH20.

Next pour in your I2 and close with a solid rubber stopper. Duct tape this on so it dont pop off during the reaction. you should all ready have your foot and a half of plastic tubing secured onto the nipple of the flask and securely taped there, and at the end of this tubing you will be taping (duct tape) on a balloon. Make sure that all of this is taped AIR TIGHT. After you get the 3 goodies mixed in the bottom of the flask you will want to hold the end of the tubing closed with your thumb.(gloves on!)(safety glasses too)
Sit back and watch it start to react slowly. Sometimes it will react right away and sometimes not. Just watch and see. It will react really slowly (that�s what you want) because it is in the ice bath. After about 10 minutes in the ice bath take it out and let it sit on the counter for about 20 minutes to get back up to room temperature. It will start turning to a muddy texture, and then to a liquid (might not turn liquid till its on the heat). You may notice that your balloon is a little bigger. This is from gasses produced by the reaction (Hi gas).
All right, everything going good so far? Not too hard huh? Now you will want to cook the reaction to get it going again. Before you start all of this put your regular cooking pot on your electric burner and find out where the dial is at 150F. So turn on your burner and set it at 150F. Put your cooking pot with vegetable oil in the bottom (just about 2 inches off the bottom) on the burner, and put your flask in that. After a few minutes this bitch will really get cookin. It will start bubbling and the mixture will expand. All in all it is going to start to get a little crazy. Every few minutes pick up the flask and swirl it up a little. You will notice that the balloon is getting big. That is fine. Let it do its thing. If the balloon is too smelly for you (you may smell a slight amount of Hi gas) then lay a wet towel over the top of the balloon.
Just keep this going for while. You will want to slowly turn up the heat to about 190F over a 1 hour period. The push part of the reaction will keep going for about 1.5 hours to 2 hours. It usually lasted for about 1.5 hours in my dreams. You will know when to stop cooking when the push stops and the bubbling slows.

When this has occured take the flask out of the pot and just set it on the counter. To save any extra stress on the flask set it on top of a towel. (the counter may be too cold for the flask if its not pyrex). While it is cooling to room temp you want to keep swirling the flask. You will notice that the gas that was in the balloon is getting sucked back into the flask and the balloon is deflating. This is good. It will probaly take about 20 minutes (if that) for the flask to cool down. You want it to be cool enough to hold in your hand with out burning yourself. Remember to keep stirring and shaking the flask during the cooling.
When the flask has cooled down to a suitable state, (room temp) then untape the rubber stopper and add 100ml of DH20 to the chili oil in the bottom of the flask. Shake up the chilli/H20 in the flask, and pour directly into the clean visionware bowl. now pour a little more distilled water into empty flask (just a little) and shake up real good. this is just to get out the rest of what ever is left in the flask. put the bowl on the burner and turn on high. bring to a boil while stirring with a clean plastic spoon. This will get the some chilli that is stuck on the RP off of it. Turn off the burner and let sit and cool to room temp.
While this is cooling off a little, grab your funnel and put in 3 coffee filters and stuff a cotton ball in the tip of the funnel. put this over a clean glass jar. now pour everything that is in the visionware bowl into the funnel. it will take a while to filter because of the RP. once all the meth water is filtered through, into the glass jar, pour it back through the same filters (with the RP in it) again. you will want to do this at least 4 times. just keep pouring it through the same filter/cottonballs. now it should have a yellowish collor, but not foggy at all. it should be very clear. be sure to save all your RP so you can wash it and reuse it later.
THE A/B:
Prepare your lye solution ahead of time. You will need it soon. Do this by adding around 8-10 spoonfulls of lye to 100ml of DH20. Stir it up till its all dissolved. It will be hot. You want to let it cool to room temp before it using. It will clear up as it cools down too.

Pour this into your separatory funnel (the yellowish clear water/meth), and add just a little ice. Now you are going to add your NP (non-polar) solvent. I would dream about using VM&P Naptha or toluene. For the matter of this write up I am going to say use toluene. Add a little less than the amount of water/meth you have in there (add like 75ml). When you look at the sep funnel now you will see that there are 2 layers in it. The top layer is the NP layer (toluene), and the bottom layer is the polar layer (water). Now slowly add a little lye solution to the sep. funnel, and shake well. drop a small drip onto your litmus paper to test the Ph. (you will be testing the water/meth layer, NOT the toluene layer) you want the Ph to be 13 or 14. if it is not a Ph of 13/14 then add a little more lye and shake the hell out of it and test again. keep doing this till it test out at 13/14. What is happening here is you are making the meth into a freebase and pushing into the NP layer. So you want to be sure to shake it up real well to get it all in the NP. After it tests at 13/14 drop in a tablespoon of table salt, and shake well. Now we are going to seperate the layers in the funnel. We want to keep the NP Solvent (Toluene / top layer), not the water/lye layer (bottom).
Now you are going to make your Murry solution for the next step. To do this Add 15ml of Muriatic acid to 85ml of DH20. Stir it up a bit and set it aside. This is now diluted Hcl solution.

Put the water layer in a jar and set aside. You can do another A/B on it later. Keep the Toluene/meth in the seperatory funnel. Heat a big glass of new distilled H2O till it is hot. pour in one third the amount of water (compared to the Toluene) and shake well. drain the water out. repeat this 4 times. you are washing the NP Solvent.
TITRATING THE METH:
From this point on you can either titrate the meth or gas it out. I am going to cover titrating because I feel that this is something that a beginner should learn before gassing. You only have to do one or the other.
Now add 30-40ml of DH20 to the sep. funnel and drop in a ml of Hcl solution. (Muriatic Acid solution from the paragraph above) Shake for a few minutes. Then test the ph of the water layer (bottom layer). You want it to test at 7.2 or at least close to that. If it doesnt, add another ml of Hcl solution and shake the hell out of it again and test again. Continue doing this till you get to the PH of 7 / 7.2 After it is the proper ph, drain the water layer into your CLEAN visionware bowl and put it on the hotplate and and heat till it starts to steam. Immediately take off the hotplate and put a fan on the bowl. Now you can let it finish by having the fan blowing on it OR you can finish with a hairdryer if you want. now go back to your toluene in the seperatory funnel and add a little more distilled water. we are going to do a second pull on the non-polar solvent. add another ml of Hcl solutioni and shake it up again. test the ph again. looking for 7.2 again. once you reach 7.2 again drain your meth/water into another clean visionware bowl. now evaporate again. remember that if your not in a hurry, evaporating it with a hair dryer will increase yeilds. Some chefs even do a third pull.
Thats it. you now have clean and pure crystal meth. Have Fun, and be safe.
Authors Note: This type of synth is called a Hot Dry cook. It produces a more euphoric product but it doesn�t last as long as Long Wet Dope. Long Wet cooks produce a product that has no Fireworks or euphoria, but it lasts longer. If you are looking for something that lasts for a real long time but is boring then you want to do a long wet cook.

!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

YOU CAN DO THIS IN PLACE OF THE POST REACTION WORKUP IN THE SLACKER SYNTH ABOVE. DO WHATEVER ONE YOU FIND EASIER, BUT DON�T FORGET TO TITRATE AFTERWARDS. THIS ONE PICKS UP IMMEDIATELY AFTER THE COOK IS DONE.

A/B Step-by-Step
So Your Rp/I Reaction is over? What does one do with
this nasty stuff now? How is it turned into White
Powder?
A simple, basic, no-frills, post-reaction work-up, for
early dreaming.

So Your Rp/I Reaction is over? What does one do with
this nasty stuff now? How is it turned into White
Powder?
A simple, basic, no-frills, post-reaction work-up, for
early dreaming.

This method or some
variation of is used (theoretically) by most Dreamers.
It is basic, well-known, well documented and often
ignored, until the last minute, by those who need it.
It has been written here, in fair detail, to benefit
those who, have never been exposed to such things
before. There are better procedures available, which
provide a cleaner and more intense end result. This
Procedure however, should become well familiar to the
Novice, initially. This account should be an adequate
and descriptive step-by-step guide, hopefully
answering many questions.
Step 1. Boil the Post Reaction Solution
At this point, the dreamer should see before him/her a
container, that has some red/yellowish/brownish/dark,
material inside, the result of an RP/I reaction, in
all likelihood.
.
First, the dreamer must decide whether or not this
container, in which the reacted materials are held, is
able to withstand direct heat from a stove or similar
burner, without breaking. If it is a pyrex or similar
piece of kitchenware, it is not stove top safe. If it
is Lab ware or Visio nware it is stove top safe. If it
is anything else other than something specifically
designed for stove top use, it will likely break. All
could be lost.
Heat up some distilled water (dH2O), until it is nice
and hot, like a very hot cup of coffee. Pour some onto
the reaction solution; just enough to raise the volume
of material, approximately 5 times that of the
reaction material alone. A minimum of 75ml is a good
guideline for first timers. As one is more acquainted
with the procedure, less or more may be used, as
preferred.
Swirl it around inside the reaction vessel, to loosen
any material clinging to the inside. If the vessel is
stove top safe, place it on heat and boil it for 5-10
minutes. If the reaction vessel is not, transfer the
solution to one that is.
The post reaction solution should appear as a clear
fluid, it may appear a little "milky or clouded", with
the Red Phosphorus (Rp) swirling around inside. It
will have a characteristic odor of "boiled onion" or
"cat pee".
If it is any darker, it should be boiled for the full
ten minutes, sometimes the Rp gives the illusion the
solution is dark. Let it settle and double check the
color. If it is yellow, boil it for up to 10 minutes
or so, it will likely clear. This color is usually
excess Iodine.
If the solution remains dark with Iodine,and strong
Iodine Odor or Vapor are noticed, in all likelihood
the reaction was incomplete. Although when refluxing
in particular, it could be clear and still not
complete, so keep this mind.
If it is very dark, it should be placed on very low
heat, allowed to evaporate to it's original volume. At
that time new Iodine, at least 75% of the original
amount, H2O, to discretion, and Rp, about 15-25% of
the original weight, should be added, and the reaction
restarted.
If the reaction solution is no darker than "honey"
after boiling, proceed. Though a clear or possibly a
clouded whitish solution is to be strived for on
subsequent reactions.
Step 2 Make a NaOH Solution
In a separate container, which should be oven safe
glass, a beaker, or a thick glass/ceramic mug. Pour in
100ml dH2O, slowly add lye (NaOH), with stirring until
no more will dissolve, at which time the solution is
saturated. A saturated solution contains as much of a
given material(s) that it can possible dissolve. The
amount of material they can dissolve, increases as
they are heated, and decreases as they are cooled. It
may take a few minutes so keep stirring. Do not inhale
the fumes, they may sting the eyes, the solution will
become quite hot. As the liquid stands it will cool
off and become clear, allow it to cool to room
temperature, it may be chilled if desired. Do not
touch, drink, or store this liquid where it could
unknowingly be a hazard. It is highly caustic and will
burn living human tissues, with only brief exposure.
It will be used later. Set it aside to cool.
Step 3 Filter Out the Rp

The post reaction solution, will now carefully be
filtered to remove all the Rp. A coffee or similar
filter is adequate, vacuum filtration is optimal.
Remember that the Rp may be saved, dried and re-used.
It is best to filter the solution directly into the
separatory funnel (or sep funnel), to keep the amount
of containers to a minimum, and reduce loss. Make
certain the filter has been pre-saturated with dH2O,
so it will not soak up product. Make sure to rinse the
Reaction Vessel, with dH20 and filter that as well.
This will help get any product or Rp sticking to the
sides, so it will not be lost.
Now go thoroughly clean the Reaction Vessel, and
thoroughly rinse it with dH2O, if it is of sufficient
size it will be used in the next step, if not use
another suitable container.
A separatory funnel, is a laboratory tool, consisting
of a container with a opening at the top, which can be
sealed, and an outlet at the bottom, which can be
opened and closed with a small valve . It resembles an
enclosed funnel, and in fact, is. It is, indeed, the
best tool to be used in this process. 500ml, is the
optimum size, for Dreaming hobbyists. If one intends
to be a Dreamer, it is an indispensable tool, and no
substitute, is as good. A sep funnel and a reaction
flask, are the most important lab ware, a Dreamer
could acquire. Suitable substitutes, can be fashioned
for this purpose easily, and plans are everywhere.
Even a Jar, could substitute, with a Turkey Baister,
to remove fluids, but it makes the process less
efficient and more difficult.

Step 4 Post Reaction NP Wash

Pour Xylene, Toluene, Hexane, Naphtha, Petroleum
Ether, Diethyl Ether or any suitable Non Polar Solvent
(NP), into the separatory funnel, in the amount of 1/3
the volume of the Filtered Reaction Solution. Swirl
and shake the sep funnel gently for a few minutes (not
seconds), and allow it to settle for a few minutes.
Two layers will be formed, one layer or phase, at the
top contains the NP, its called the organic layer. The
bottom layer is the dH2O, or the aqueous layer. It
should be noted that some less common NP solvents,
such as DCM (dichloromethane), settle to the bottom,
however, these aren't commonly available, to New
Dreamers or necessarily to be used in this
application.
After the solution settles for a minimum of 5 minutes,
and interface between the layers is distinct, drain
the aqueous layer carefully into the reaction flask.
Drain the organic layer into a suitable container and
set it aside. Pour the aqueous layer carefully back
into the sep funnel.
The sep funnel must be swirled or shaken very gently,
otherwise an emulsion could form. An emulsion will
cause the layers to separate slowly. Should this
happen, careful swirling may help to break the
emulsion. Simply allowing the emulsion to break over
time is otherwise employed. The key is being careful
to not proceed until the layers are well separated,
leaving a very distinct interface between them.
Repeat Step 4 again. More than once if desired.
Step 5 Basifying

The aqueous layer, should now be in the sep funnel
alone.
This will begin a process, known to chemists as an
"Acid Base Extraction" ( A/B), reference material
should be read on the matter, so the Dreamer will
understand how it works. A true understanding, will
make any unforeseen problems, easier to overcome.
For this step and others, New Dreamers, must obtain a
ph measuring device. Ph, means Power of Hydrogen , it
is a scale from 0 to 14, with 0 representing a totally
acidic solution, and 14 being a totally basic
solution, dH20 should be a ph7, or neutral, on the ph
scale. Strips, tape, and electronic checkers are
easily obtained, they should measure 0-14, and are
extremely inexpensive. Other ph checking methods may
be employed, the Red Cabbage Scale, is excellent as
well, look around for the plans.
Add some fresh NP Solvent to the sep funnel, about 1/2
the volume of the aqueous layer is best in the
beginning, at this stage. If the NP is Naphtha make
sure it is warmed before adding, otherwise it will not
easily absorb the product. Xylene or Toluene are, far
and away the best choices for New Dreamers here.
Xylene smells better, and is more widely accessible,
it is the Authors solvent choice, in these dreams.
Retrieve the now cooled NaOH solution, made in Step 2,
slowly and carefully add a small amount to the sep
funnel, 1-5ml.
The aqueous layer may get cloudy. Gently swirl the
funnel, moving it around, gently mixing and agitating
the fluids for 30 seconds. Continue adding NaOH, a
little at a time, and swirling, until the ph, reaches
14 (12.5 or higher, is adequate, but 14 is best used
initially). Small particles or bubbles may be
observed, rising toward the top of the aqueous layer.
Only the aqueous layer will have a ph reading to be
checked, the organic laye r is not checked.
When the ph 14 has been reached, the product in the
aqueous layer has became it's free base (FB) form, and
will begin to move into the organic layer. This
process takes some time, it is not instantaneous.
Now begin adding some plain table salt (NaCL), to the
sep funnel, slowly, with swirling, 2 or 3 grams at a
time, until no more will dissolve. This will take
awhile, gentle swirling is best, do not hurry. This
will help the H2O, to release its grasp on the
product, so it may migrate to the organic layer. Once
this process is complete, allow the sep funnel sit
undisturbed, until the layers are well separated, or a
minimum of 30 minutes.
Step 6 Water wash the NP layer
After the sep funnel has sat at least 30 minutes,
carefully drain the aqueous layer, into a suitable
container. Do not, throw it away at this time. It may
contain product, and can be re-extracted later.
Occasionally some material will precipitate in the
aqueous layer, and hover just below the organic layer.
It should not be drained away when the aqueous layer
is removed at this time.
The organic layer should be in the funnel, alone, at
this point.
Now, more hot dH20, amounting to 1/2 the volume of the
organic layer, is added. The sep funnel should now be
gently stirred and swirled, for 3 or 4 minutes, to mix
the layers. This step will remove water soluble
compounds, that may contaminate the product, which is
not water soluble at this time. NaOH, will often be
trapped in the organic layer, this will remove it.
Allow the sep to sit until the layers are well
separated, a minimum of 5 minutes, undisturbed. Then
drain away the aqueous layer, saving it with the NaOH
solution previously removed. Drain away any
precipitant left over when the aqueous layer was
drained as well. Most likely it fell to the bottom of
the fresh dH2O. Repeat this Process 2 more times.
The organic layer will likely appear rather opaque or
cloudy at this time, as o pposed to crystal clear. It
is not a cause for alarm.

Step 7 Titriation or Titriating

Now the organic layer, should be in the sep funnel
alone.
Now add dH20, amounting to 1/4 to 1/2 the volume of
the organic layer.
Carefully drip 2 or 3 drops of Hydrochloric or Muratic
Acid (HCL), to the sep funnel. Shake the sep funnel
vigorously. Allow it to settle until the layers are
thoroughly separated (2 or 3 minutes minimum). Check
the ph, if the ph is 6 or lower, shake again, and
allow the funnel to sit for 10 minutes. Check the ph
again if it is still ph6 or lower, proceed to the next
step. If the ph is higher than 6, add 2 or 3 more
drops, repeating this process until ph6 is achieved.
If the ph is 7 or 8 when checked, add only 1 drop at a
time. This may require time, and many ph checks, do
not rush, do not add large amounts of acid rapidly.
The amount of acid required relates directly to the
amount of product in the solution.
If the starting material for the reaction, was 3 grams
or less, add only 1 drop of acid at a time, with any
addition of acid.
Before continuing, in any case, when ph6 or less is
obtained, shake the solution, allow it to settle for
10 minutes, then double check the ph.
This process, allows the FB product, to attach itself
to the HCL, and it becomes a consumable water soluble
salt. It will move in to the aqueous layer again. This
process should be performed carefully and slowly. If
the ph should, inadvertently become below 6, do not
panic, although it is undesirable.
Step 8 Evaporating
Now that the aqueous layer, is a stable ph6, it will
be ready to evaporate.
Carefully drain the aqueous layer into a suitable
evaporation dish (evap dish). Should any waxy or
"skin-like" substance be visible in the aqueous layer,
it should be filtered as it is added. Make certain the
filter has been pre-saturated with dH2O, so it will
not soak up product. Filtering will remove these solid
contaminants. A small funnel and filter should be
used. A tea strainer fitted with, a cut to size coffee
filter can be utilized if necessary. Add the organic
layer to the waste container, containing the aqueous
layer and water rinses from Step 6, to be saved and
re-extracted, at a later date. The sep funnel should
now be thoroughly cleaned, dried and put away for safe
keeping.
The evap dish itself, should be an oven safe dish at
bare minimum. A stove top safe dish or appropriate lab
ware are best. If the evap dish isn't stove top safe.
It must not be allowed to touch any heat source
directly, or be over heated. It could easily break. It
should be thoroughly cleaned and rinsed well with dH2O
before use.
Using very low heat, and a small fan gently blowing
over the surface of the dH2O/product solution. The H2O
will be slowly evaporated and crystals should be left
behind. Do not allow them to burn or be over heated.
The crystalline substance should be transparent, to
those well versed, the particular pattern of
crystallization can be recognized.
Once they have been thoroughly dried, they may be
scraped up carefully, with a razor blade or similar
device. They should be gathered in a small, clean
glass stove top safe jar or beaker and crushed to
powder. The powder should be a brilliant, sparkling
white, composed of tiny transparent crystals. It may
have a yellow tint if contaminated or the ph was below
6, in the previous step.
Once they have been gathered and dried. A small amount
of very cold, 0C, dried acetone (tone), should be
poured over them so they are covered. A dried solvent
contains little or no H2O, they are dried with a
drying agent like Magnesium Sulfate Heptahydrate
(Epsom Salt), which has been dehydrated in the oven
and added to the solvent. A drying agent soaks up
residual H2O, and will not dissolve in the solvent.
The solvent is then either filtered, or simply
decanted off the drying agent, and used as needed. Sol
vent drying techniques are easily performed, and many
techniques are written in detail. Swirl the acetone,
allow the crystals to settle a moment, and carefully
decant the acetone, leaving the crystals in the jar.
The acetone should be decanted, into another
container, in the event some crystals are poured
inadvertently. Repeat this step 2 more times. If the
powder was discolored, more repeats may be required
The crystals should then be allowed to dry.
Once they have dried, the product is in the form of a
crude HCL salt, that is ready to undergo
Recrystalization. Recrystalizing them is key to obtain
maximum potential of the product. Documents describing
it are abundant, several methods are available. A
simple dual-solvent recrystalization should be
adequate, for New Dreamers.

Afterward
This simple procedure, is possibly the least
understood, by those just starting. It very often is
the main barrier between first time success and
failure. No step can be skipped, this is the crudest
version, which should ever be pondered. Many
refinements and options, can, and have been made, to
better achieve it's end. Such as, Titriation could
replaced with bubbling the dried organic layer with
anhydrous HCL gas, to directly precipitate crystals,
or once the Reaction solution was basified, it could
be distilled. Distillation is a far superior process,
which should be studied once this one is well
familiar. May Joy and Success follow the Dreamer into eternity.
Jam.!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

That�s it folks. That�s the end. This is a very complete and easy to understand compilation of writeups. These are not real and do not ever try them. Just dream it. Keep this bitch bumped.

Weyhey

Much easier to keep the one post bumped than the three seperate ones.....

Hey Hey Hey!!!!
Nice One Acidmelt! Complete....Concise!
How's Things Friend?

things are going good ol buddy. nice to hear from you!! you need to give me a call man, i have been worried about ya. if you lost the number then email me buddy. thanks for the props on the revised synth.

well i must say good job AM . as for the old buddy a post up he dont ever call . you got the number ware use it.

your most honourable Judge Acid,

id like to raise an objection your worship,
where is the write ups for us hero's who birch,
must i appeal to the appellate courts to have this matter rectified or will grovelling suffice.

actually I am currently looking into a good birch and long wet to add to the list here bro. let me know what you think i should add and it will be done. all of this will be offered in a better format soon with pics and all. I will have it available for download when I am done, I will not post it since it has pics in it. send me your birch/long wet

wtg AM, SWIM took down the originol "RP/I2/E-Where To Get It" thread to save board space. good write up bro, its been a long time coming.

Wicked is there anyway I could interest you in doing a write-up on LWR Bro?! I know SWIM does the LWR and I think you could do a proper write-up on its done at AllNiteProductions.


Also, I myself am onna make a revision on my A/B Step-by-Step which includes the 411 on how to gas.
Ever since you pointed-out the fact that newbies are benefited more by learning how to gas rather than titrate I have thought that you are absolutely right man.


Afterall, all of us except AM's buddy swia use the gas.


Let me know what you think and let me add that I'm not asking for it right away...rather, when you were to of found the time.

think about it and let me know.

I also think the Lavalamp/punchballoon deserves being added and Kracklebacks' Homemade NH3 as well.

You guys tell me what you think ok?!

Jam.

He might not know ware he is mostly, but ware's alter WaredEGO might start deflating if'n he didn't contribute any!
Came home with a fever today but will start work on the WetDream(LWR) write-UP soon as the weathers back under `em!
Next few daze.
Wicked's qualified and has the Kidz Blessings if`n he Ghets to it first!
Peace
Ware

Kick-ass Ware!

That would be most welcomed and I'm sure Wicked don't find it as you were to impose in doing so.

Wicked if SWIM's is different then by all means throw-down what you got to offer Bro.

The more the merrier right?!


Jam.

i emailed my birch fiction to you acid

got it, I am doing some more write ups and adding some more good stuff. it will be available in mine and Jams new book.

AM,
Saying thanks just doesn't seem like enough for all the work you've done compiling this valuable info into one place, but thanks anyway and it's greatly appreciated ;?D!!!

I second Jam's motion for a writeup on gassing methods.

Just wondering, if it's in the realm of possibility might someone tackle the task of putting together a "Trouble Shooting Guide"? You know, a list of the most common things that go wrong and how to deal with em. Just a thought

Speaking for all us noobs, you guys ROCK! and your willingness to share your knowledge and XP is a testament to the kind of quality people you are and my respect for you guys grows daily!!!

That's an excellent idea fearnoevil. A Troubleshooting Guide would most definitely have much utility as a tool for the New dreamer.


Good looking out Bro.

This is something any and all with experience could contribute to.

This way we all share personal trial and errors and the remedies that solved the equation.


I can dig it with a backhoe man!

Jam.

sure man SWIM would do a writeup on the LWR. he is a little short on time as the spring season has broken loose and its work time but he will do the best he can. SWIM would love to see a writeup by Ware and the kidz as well for comparison sake if nothing else. one thing SWIM has learned is that on never stops learning and one never knows all there is to know.

Can you use Ephrdrine HCI pills instead of doing the pseudo extraction? The ones I found online say: Pure ephedrine made by NVE pharmaceuticals. Sixty tablets per bottle. Each tablet contains 240mg of ephedrine extract and 24mg of ephedrine group alkaloids. What does group alkaloids mean and does it mean I cannot use these or do I need to do an extraction from them.
Also, can Contact Cold and sinus 12 hour time release pills be used with the pseudo extraction?

time release pills must be cracked first. swia believes that mnkeyboys cracked pearls method still works, but swia is not sure becuase he never used time release pills. ephedrine pills will work fine, but what you have there look to be EPHEDRA, with is what ephedrine is obtained from, they are not the same thing. use different pills

Why does it sound like they are ephedra if the main ingrediant in the time released capsules is Ephedrine HCI?

In my dreams I did up to step 7 so far. Did not make the dry acetone. Already started making from the Contact time released tablets. Is the final product after the acetone rinse going to be garbage and not of any use?

quote:

---

Originally posted by goldblar1818:
In my dreams I did up to step 7 so far. Did not make the dry acetone. Already started making from the Contact time released tablets. Is the final product after the acetone rinse going to be garbage and not of any use?

---

A good friend of mine did exactly the same thing as goldbar, so I was real interested in the answer. I think many answers were given but...what does "BOINK", "Bump" and "SUPER Bump" mean? My friend went through SWIM's whole extraction process with the Contact 120's time release, from the TCE/JD to the dry acetone final step.

Is this stuff trash?

Thanks

When people post " Bump " in a forum.

It means they have upped there intake of Meth

Taken another hit.

Pushed some more shit up there nose.

hence the word Bump.

The fact that it pushes the topic, to the top of the list, so that fools can read it, if educated enough, hopefully before they ask dickless, mindless questions,
is completley irrelevent.

I have to start by thanking everyone out there for the excellent info on this site...and for answering my questions. In my dreams I've mostly followed SWIM's write up. I feel real good about my RP and Iodine and thought I had a good batch of Psuedo until I read a recent post.

Based on SWIM saying "it works across the board on a multitude of pills including redhots (deredded 1st of course) and 120`s", I may have mistakenly extracted Contact 120's. If these produce trash, please tell me so I can remove them from my dream. I may have plenty of S-fed 30 mg and will process those, if needed, once I hear from you. Joel wishes to continue this dream in the cooking phase, but not until he is sure of his ingredients. thanks.

ACID!!!! Just wanted to let ya know,i dreamt I was succesful in accomplishing my goal! Thanx to yer slacker method ya dreamed about!!To be honest,between you,JAM,and WIKKID,ya guys seem to have some respect for people.1ST post I put on another forums,drew hellfire,just for simply asking a question.I know people have their moments,I know I do,unless someone asks a totally stupid question that can be researched,i'm pretty laid back.It's all a learning process,but i sure coulda saved some time by coming here in the 1ST place,LOL!!Anyone can dream of achieving a great product,it just takes time,mistakes(had many,lol),and the common sense to research,and be able to follow directions.This noob does need a little help tho'.I've often dreamt of smoking,and being "new" to this experience(oh,but boy am I a seasoned vet of the righteous partyin'),the only means that I do inhale in my dreams,is I mix my stuff with sum of my favorite herbal blend.Any help would be appreciated!!
P.S. I melted some of my cough medicine on a soup can lid to test quality,didn't even turn,just smoked like crazy.Oh,that reminds me.......BUMP!!!!

Bumping....
just glad I can now re-access the forums here... even if only intermittently.

In SWIM'S ephedrine from pseudo pills extraction it says, SWIM has taken to combining his 3 denat pulls into one jar instead of evapping them seperatley. SWIM adds the denat lets it settle out, siphons it off. adds denat to pill mass again, settles, siphons off, combines with 1st pull. repeats again. once 3 pulls have been collected in 1 jar SWIM then runs the 3 pulls thru fine filtration. Does this mean that in step 7, 250ml of denatured alcohol is put into the pill mass and then let to settle and then siphoned off and collected. Then after this another new 250ml is put into the pill mass and let to settle, and then siphoned and collected. And what is the rest? Can someone please explain to me the entire 7th step in full exactly what to do becuase I do not totally understand it. Thanks.

I really don't know anything about chemistry.

But as a Linux user, I must say...

Everything needs a good FAQ. I've seen guides on this kind of thing all over, but very few where people actually get to ask the questions :P

You might want to look into that acidmelt.

And btw... since you're slow and lazy, I trust you still have my mailing address, right? (I'm sure you'll see this before you get your ass in #totse)

Fuck contacs-they suck!

excellent "recipe" for the good shit!!! Swim has been looking for a way he can understand in his head before beginning, and this way is the bomb of all "recipes). Very detailed and comprehencible. You da man acid!!! Bump.

quote:

---

Originally posted by crankhead:
excellent "recipe" for the good shit!!! Swim has been looking for a way he can understand in his head before beginning, and this way is the bomb of all "recipes). Very detailed and comprehencible. You da man acid!!! Bump.

---

You only read this thread just now? Sorry to say this, but you are most likely doomed to failure. What everyone around Lab Tips mean when they say to read every thread is exactly that, read every thread(and read them again when they get bumped to the top of the list). Not only the topics with with the interesting/technichal sounding titles. Not only the topics with only 1 or 2 replies so that you don't have to read much. Every thread, and every post in it.

Not every topic or post will have information relevant to your own personal interests, but there are little gems of knowledge buried in seemingly unlikely places throughout Lab Tips.

Currently there are 15 pages of posts in this forum. Swim has read every one, you are advised to do the same(don't forget the archives). Remember that as the supply of precursors evolves so does the information you need. Swim is successful at what you seem to be striving for(unless your a cop), & it appears that the information you can find here at the moment, if you look for it, will help you achieve your goals. All you need to do is to collect those gems of knowledge and UNDERSTAND them. Then you'll be way closer to having that full set of crystal jewelry we all enjoy instead of submitting posts that inform noobs that litmus paper turns different colors under different pH conditions, and getting ridiculed or flamed for your troubles.

Is this a flame? I'd rather think of it as a warning with a solution . Hell, swim's told himself on more than one occasion, "Shit, why didn't I think of that!!!"(the ghetto-separatory funnel is the first to come to mind: siphonning sucks).

Whew, when you type two fingers/15 w.p.m. like swim, it's easier to point & click then read than to type out a post anyway. Good luck to you crankhead, if you even discover this post.

[This message has been edited by squarenerd (edited 05-23-2004).]

You know what, squarened? Suck swim's cock, instead of a crackpipe. There is a difference in flaming and being a fucking asshole, ya know? From now on, just stay the fuck away from swim, and he will stay the fuck away from you. Got that, CRACKHEAD? OOOOMMMMPH!!! P.S> BUMP!

you know... some of the people in this room at so fucking rude. swim doesn't blame crankhead for cussing you out. you deserve it. why do you have to be such an asshole to everyone? it is so childish to put someone down b/c of their views.

This is the most informative post on here.
However, squarenerd's right.
Before, anyone actually trys any of this shit, they should read everything on this forum.That means every post!
That might make the difference between cooking "two hitter, gotta quit her" and maybe burning down your house.

are you saying the Phsudowhat is e? like ecstasy e? dont laugh at me if its not, for i am noob ...

in dream land

E = ephedrine (or psuedoephedrine)

X = MDMA

OMG awesome!
But how do I make meth out of methanol and vicks inhalers wivout usin complicated words like "reagent" and "decanting"?

Jesus, crawl back to your i'm-a-13-year-old-guy-who's-not-gay-but-wants-to-be-butt-humped-by-infrared anonymous meeting, you sorry little bitch!
Sorry, AM, I get a little out there when i've had too much sleep.

[This message has been edited by kman (edited 06-29-2004).]

BUMP

and for those still learning to PILLage
try aiming at Target(60mgs/48ct=$3bx)
or for those with $ coming out ya ass - the 24hr sudafed make bomb "d"

Awesome writeup. SWIM appreciates the time taken to type this up. SWIM now understands more than ever the dream that is described here.

SWIM owes it to ya.

actually i have a few questions. well here goes... in part 1B it says for every 10 grams of Red Phosphorous(RP) add 1/8 to 1/4 teaspoon of rd lye. 1.Is RD lye red devil lye? 2.What is a pull? 3.Can you explain the whole plastic tubing and balloon thing? 4.What is meant by chili oil? does this describe what it looks like? under THE A/B: you talk of a seperatory funnel. and about the color of it. 5.Is this just the glass jar that the water/meth is in? right before the titrating step it says pour in 1/3 the ammount of water and shake well. 6.Does this mean pour in a liter of water if the toluene is 3 liters? 8.In the titrating step do you have to syphon off the top layer of toluene? SWIM would appreciate any help that can be given.

i just read through three pages of this bump shit . now would one of you mods take all the bump post out of this post please ..


then yall can start again i assume.

QUOTE- "Use the 1 part E, to 1.2 parts I2, to .8parts RP ratio for reactions under 1oz. So for example you would use 10g of E, 12g of I2, and 8g of RP."


how much meth would that produce theoretically if everything was done 100% correctly?

[This message has been edited by shawman5 (edited 08-14-2004).]

Five grams. Get some experience under your belt and you could theorectically pull seven grams from a ten gram redux.


Jam.

Ok, in this SWIM synth it says to use Brakleen with red cap, I've looked into the companies website at: http://www.crcindustries.com, & the correct type of can is NOT sold in this state.

Ok, now I know it say NO SUBSTITUTIONS
So can a different method be used?

quote:

---

Originally posted by KillerGroove:
Ok, in this SWIM synth it says to use Brakleen with red cap, I've looked into the companies website at: http://www.crcindustries.com, & the correct type of can is NOT sold in this state.

Ok, now I know it say NO SUBSTITUTIONS
So can a different method be used?

---

Unless you have a source for just tce then drive somewhere that they do sell it or order it off of the internet.

KillerGroove, swim might just point out that he has the MSDS on the red cap brakleen here in Oz and this shit doesn't contain ANY TCE whatsoever but many claim to use it and say it works fine.
Heres whats in it-

methylene chloride 75-09-2(cas) 10-30%
petroleum distillate (no cas) 30-60%
liquified petroleum gas 68476-85-7 10-30%

Swim found a much cheaper brake cleaner with Perchlorethylene for $4 a can as opposed to brakleen at $14 a can.

JO_BLOW

SWIM is asking for the name of that break cleaner if SWIM dont mind.

Thanx

Isn't the nipple the part of the flask where the rubber stopper goes in? How could you put the tubing around the nipple if the stopper is in it?

the stopper has a hole in it?

for the tubing to pass through?

[This message has been edited by egghead (edited 10-26-2004).]

BUMP! the nipple would be a flask with another stem comming out of the neck that some rubber tubing fits on think back to chemistry in high school in theory a stopper with a hole then a glass rod fed through and a tube attached to that would work???

in theory yes that would work

bumpin

Would a 500 ml flask be big enough for a reaction of 10g of E, 12g of I2, and 8g of RP?

Absolutely. In fact that might almost be too much surface area(spreading the regeants too thin) for that little of an amount.

Just be sure to keep an eye on her and make sure she doesn't dry out due to being so thin and the regeants: RP/I2/H20 thus, can't manufacture and properally recycle the HI.


A 250ml flask is more appropriate for your amount of PSE being reduced is what I'm basically saying. So you can see that doubling the spread and surface area of the bottom of the flask can spread that shit too thin.


Not saying it will but be sure to baby sit that bitch so you don't cook your goods in the bad way not the good way! hehe.





Jam.

thx man.

Could you use psuedo pills with 60 mg of psuedo and 4 mg of chlorpheniramine? Because i cant find any pills with 60 mg of psuedo by itself. And also do u have to do more extensive washing when the pills have chlorpheniramine in them?

quote:

---

Originally posted by frankbomb69:
Could you use psuedo pills with 60 mg of psuedo and 4 mg of chlorpheniramine? Because i cant find any pills with 60 mg of psuedo by itself. And also do u have to do more extensive washing when the pills have chlorpheniramine in them?

---

abcdefghijklmnopqrstuvwxyz

quote:

---

Originally posted by acidmelt:
the container SWIM uses is a heavy gauge plastic with a tight fitting lid so if you do have a fire in the container the lid can be slammed on thereby smothering the fire.

---

Since matches are a low order explosive, they contain there own oxidiser (usally KClO3, Potassium Chlorate) and so by shutting the lid, all your doing is confining the expanding gasses createing a possiable bomb, not smothering them at all. Why not throw them into a bucket of water?

good write up btw

static_firefly

if there is any potassium chlorate in there then swim has fucked up and used the wrong part of the matchbooks. as it is the striker pads swim be wanting.


[This message has been edited by BongTech101 (edited 11-23-2004).]

are there any tips if i have ameth lab in my room? like shoud i leave my window open? or keep it cool?

quote:

---

Originally posted by 530siccness:
are there any tips if i have ameth lab in my room? like shoud i leave my window open? or keep it cool?

---

Definately ventilate.

Wear goggles, or equivalent.

Wear gloves.

Maybe tidy up a bit too...

Don't worry about atmospheric temperature. Reaction temperature is controlled with ice and heat source (non-flame!).

...Close the curtains/blind/etc.

If you absolutely need to keep all chemicals on your property, then don't store them all together. Put them where they look as if to be used for legal purpose.

Things like red and purple could be stored with some homemade firworks books or web printouts, anything to make it look anything other than...

I guess it's 'common sense'. Just think about what's important. ie. Not getting caught, or injured, or dead.

ya i guess it is common sense i plan on keeping it well ventilated i don't want that shit blowing up on me, the gloves and goggles are a given, better safe than sorry

Ahhhhh. So here's where all you fuckers from the Hive have been hiding. Good to see some familiar names. I'll be damned if I know why I didn't think to come here before....oh well.

Anywho, I was just wondering if anyone had bothered to post an H3P03 synth here anywhere. My buddy Swic finds that Phos Acid is way easier to work with in a synth, and the best part is you get to skip the infernal scraping of all those goddamned matchbooks. Plus the synth is super easy. Just thought I'd toss my 2 cents in there and say hello to a few old buddies.

Anyone seen Geez or Dwarfer?

Later people

ChemN00bster

at wd, which i think you've found by now

Hey, in the extraction of the RP, where it says Bring it to a boil (outside of course) for 5 min or so and then rinse it with DH2O untill you've ran at least a quart thru it. - where you're bring the murry to a boil, to rinse, do you pour water and evap it? or through a strainer and filter? Sorry for my confusion ! Also Swim know its tedious but does soaking the strike pads in tone and scraping the RP off work?

Swim was wondering where one would purchase toluene, been to all the local hardware stores to no avail. also, bump.

the larger chain hardware stores, at least in the are that swim lives do not carry many types of solvents.

maybe try some of the smaller chain stores or the single store companies.

roger, swims gunna make a list of all the non polars - only thing stopping him from his dream!@#@#$@(*&(*!!!!!!

http:/ /www.googl e.com/sear ch?hl=en&q =non-polar +solvents& btnG=Googl e+Search

here is a list of some possible site that may have a list.

there are many np solvents, some you may or may not have heard of. others that sound quite familiar.

Swi3600 was right. Swijj went a few towns over where the population was small - no big hardware chains. The little store sold everything he needed.

This is regarding Acidmelts writeup of SWIMS dream 2A steps 4 and 5. Say swim has been studying on this topic a while but has no chemistry background. What exactly is SWIM getting rid of with the Tetra and japan dry? Is the E soluble in this shit or just some useless binders. SWIM never actually says what he does with the liquid ran through the filter, only that he takes the LEFTOVER pill mass and removes more fillers/binders with some methanol. Then Evaps the methanol for the super E. So am I correct in assuming that SWIMS E won't go down the drain through the first filter ? Maybe I'm just dense. BUMP IT UP

what is being extracted with the methanol is (hopefully by this point) only the clean e.

at the time of the write-up, the tetra and jd removed all the gakks. however, at this point in time, the tetra/jd method of cleaning pills does not work for all pills.

another extraction method may be needed.

SWIM has a couple of I2 questions.
(1) Do the size of the crystals matter. SWIM asks only because for the RP is says �run the RP thru a fine sieve strainer to powder it�� and for the E it says �SWIM again passes them thru a fine sieve to powder them.� The I2 crystals are boulders compared to the size of the RP or E. If this size difference is OK (because of the highly reactive nature of the I2, or whatever) SWIM would appreciate knowing since he doesn�t want to grind up the I2 just for kicks. (In the past he has ground up the I2 Crystals)
(2) If lab grade I2 is used, does the proportion change or is it still 1 part E, to 1.2 parts I2, to .8parts RP? Months ago SWIM thinks he read something about this but can�t find the message.

While SWIM is in a typing mood he was wondering about some of the details on the harvesting of RP from matchbooks write-up(part 1A and 1B ).
First, how do two people do 10,000 matchbooks in 4 hours, 15 min? �SWIM`s friend and SWIM can do 10 cases (10,000) books in about 4 hours 15 min�. If that includes stripping the covers, cutting the strikers off and trash disposal, how can that be possible? Are these guys robots, aliens, on drugs? Needless to say, this SWIM has come nowhere close to that rate although he wishes he could.
Second, it says, �now take them and dump them in a colander (one of those things you drain spaghetti in) bounce them around in there letting all the little pieces of paper cuttings and the little cardboard pellet looking things from where the staple went thru to hold the matches in originally. You will see when they quit falling out of colander.� Could this be referring to matchbooks made years ago that had the striker on the front of the matchbook with the staple going directly through the striker area. SWIM asks because he�s never had �little pieces of paper� ending up in the box of cut off strike pads and thought this might have been a precaution for matchbooks that aren�t produced anymore.

SWIM thinks this is a great site and great forum!!!! Thanks for the answers.

1) The pre-cursors should all be as fine and small particles as swim can make them - which increases the potential 'surface area' for the rxn.

2) If precursors are lab grade then the ratio's do alter:-
anyway..... as to the ratio's for swims lab grade goodies...

I2/RP/H2O/E
1/.33/.35(35 units)/1

wait though - is it just the I2 that swim has that's Lab Grade? and using mbrp?

or is swims Question relating to both I2 and RP being lab grade?


[This message has been edited by BongTech101 (edited 12-28-2004).]

Many thanks for the info on the I2 particle size. SWIM will keep grinding the I2 crystals for the rxn.

The ratio question is for the I2 only being lab grade. SWIM's RP is from matchbooks.

Thanks again.

SWIM has gone through the following steps at least a dozen times and is feeling uneasy about step 4.

�PART 2A: Extracting Psuedoephedrine from cold/sinus pills
1...ground up 96 (4 boxes of 24 ct) pills with mortar and pestle to a fine powder.
2...passed thru a fine sieve used in canning jellies (its all plastic and works great)
3...measured out 100 ml TCE and 10 ml japan drier. mixed together well and poured onto pill powder in 1 pint jar. stirred well and let set THREE minutes.
4...poured entire jar contents thru a funnel with a single filter and no plug. pill mass was an ugly sorta pale blue/grey. sprayed sides of filter down with TCE from the spray can with tube attached. when all pill mass was in bottom of filter it was removed twisted and rung out.�

Here�s the problem: After waiting for a three minute soak in step 3, SWIM pours the entire contents of the TCE/Japan Drier/Pseudo into the funnel specified in step 4. The Pseudo immediately causes constipation in the �single filter� (no shit!). The effect is that the mix stays in the funnel for more than 10 minutes. SWIM thinks and worries about this. Is this extra time in the funnel letting the TCE suck pseudo out of the pill mass? SWIM has done this enough times to know he gets E from the process. Question is: Is the time in the filter screwing up the yield?, and, if so; Any one have any ideas?

I was wondering if all Japan drier has the exact same make up because I havent been able to find any in the stores but I have found a few places online selling but manufactured by different companies.

evil elvis!!! glad to see you could make it! told ya there was a tweeker community...

[This message has been edited by BongTech101 (edited 03-29-2005).]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Nuke_The_World:
I was wondering if all Japan drier has the exact same make up because I havent been able to find any in the stores but I have found a few places online selling but manufactured by different companies.

---

SWIM got some at the local Home D'pot.but paint supply stores, like Sher. Wms., also carry it.

SWIM will soon do an Rxn but is unsure of the ratio because he has lab grade I2 crystals. The RP is from matchbooks and the E is from pseudo. The standard posted ratio is 1 part E to 1.2 parts I2 to 0.8 parts RP but this assumes the I2 is harvested from Iodine Tincture. Does anyone know for sure if the I2 amount is reduced if it�s lab grade? Sure would like to know either way. Thanks for your help.

Swim thnks it's a 1 to 1 p:I2 ratio if using lab grade.

quote:

---

Originally posted by kman:
Swim thnks it's a 1 to 1 p:I2 ratio if using lab grade.

---

Thanks kman.
SWIM used the 1:1 ratio and it looks good. SWIM will post the final result.

I dont know about you, but i had one hell of a time trying to find a jelly sieve i finally gave up and used a fine mesh paint filter ( obtained at any hardware store and it worked great .....(by the way that was reguarding the part where it says to pass your ingrediants thru a fine sieve prior to using them)

[This message has been edited by reddog123 (edited 01-14-2005).]

can i use a different kind of strike pad for the RP, i cannot find any of the little mathbooks anywhere, but i can get those boxes with a strike pad on each side, will this work?

Boxes are viable. Some more than others. The ones that have the diamond shapes that make up the striking strip are the least desirable.

When you go to a store, just ask an employee where they sell matches. This will give you a good idea of where to look for them in other stores if the idea of asking a cllerk for the location gives you the feeling that eyes will be upon you.

Toluene? Naptha ? np solvent... Coleman's Fuel contains Naptha is this acceptable?
Love the read and in english too!!

diamond deluxe match books contains 50 books per box found at any Wallyworld.

SWIM wants to raise a bump to all you dreamers sharing your wealth of knowledge and XP to newbies like SWIM. SWIM feels very lucky to have found this resource and the others SWIM has learned about on this site. You kids rock SWIMs world!

Princess just noticed this thread was started almost a year ago... Damn time flies when havin fun !!!

A few have moved on, some drop in from time to time and others are still here fightin the battle. No matter where/when/who/what etc. the contributions have been many, the knowledge is priceless... The goodtimes had can not be taken away or the memories shared forgot...
You all know who you are as well as knowing the others... Pros in everyway...
Here is to one hell of a great(old)school of swims!!!!!!!!

Princess

ALL HAIL THE PRINCESS

Princess, you're so rational when you're beautiful!!

Rational hmmmm well only when needed and the rest of the time ... well you know LOL
As for the other nay but you are a sweetie...Love ya....

come on sis,dont put urself down like that!

those who know have seen the beauty!
1 way or another ..........lol.

bit different on day 4 though..........hahahahaha.

as it is 4 all!

There is a way to make meth in a 2 liter bottle in less than 2 hours that is 99% pure. I won't tell you how though.

quote:

---

Originally posted by Verybigboy18:
There is a way to make meth in a 2 liter bottle in less than 2 hours that is 99% pure. I won't tell you how though.

---

Already know that one and many many more...
AM also posted another thread and swims contributed all the secrets. Opted to delete instead of archieving... the info was far to valueable......

Yo Bro sik would know - saw with his own eyes... uh huh by 4 mirrors are not an option

big boy,

ok, I'll bite.

Is it the highly coveted "Ben Dover's gun blueing synth"? If it is , there are task forces searching for above mentioned synths.

So be careful of what you post.



[This message has been edited by shit-stripe (edited 03-12-2005).]

no he is talking about the magic 2L synth which is TOTAL bullshit. we all proved it completely false when lordalmighty posted it here a long time ago. the 2L synth is bullshit and will not work.

hey all i was just wondering if anyone has ever came across pure ephedrine. Someone I know has a friend who works in a factory for sudafed and can get it. Just wanted to know if anyone thinks that this someone should get some of it and if it is worth it.

quote:

---

Originally posted by justmenotthem:
hey all i was just wondering if anyone has ever came across pure ephedrine. Someone I know has a friend who works in a factory for sudafed and can get it. Just wanted to know if anyone thinks that this someone should get some of it and if it is worth it.

---

just go ahead and post his name,address and phone # here so we can all call him

First post from a new SWIM who wants to say thanks for this write up. SWIM has been reading lab tips now for over a month...has wanted to post but was trepadacious until now. SWIM's on his fourth try now and it is looking like a winner. Many failed attempts, pretty sure it was mostly diry precursors, and simply not knowing SWIM's ass from a hole in the ground. The advice that is given regarding don't ask stupid question's, but rather read first is right on. SWIM ran into SEVERAL problems, screw ups, etc. but patiently, patiently came to lab tips and read and read and read. Seen some pretty stupid, lazy question lately...like SWIM said....just read on. SWIM is a beginner for sure and in no way even begins to assume SWIM has mastered anything, but again wants to thank Wicked-Rain and Acidmelt for the write up. It is helping SWIM to dream big and feeling pretty good that this fourth dream may be right on. Okay, so SWIM's gotta get back to dreaming.

with an attitude like that (and sounds like you got a good head on your shoulders too) you will definetly succeed in your mission. swia tried many times (way backin the day) before ever getting any return. you learn from your mistakes so eventually you will get it. it does take time. i would possibly start looking into newer E extraction methods though since i wrote this a long time ago. dont get me wrong the tce/jd still works on a lot of pills but not all.

Oh those pain in the ass pills. That has been SWIM's biggest pain in the ass yet. SWIM has been sticking with the red's but had to go through a zillion different kinds (meaning generic off brands) until I found the right combo that would even work with the TCE/JD method. The actual SUDAFED's here are filled with tons of GAKK...got the biggest mess a few days ago trying those, SWIM was just sick....could have bounced that mess twenty feet in the air! Went back to the generic that did NOT have the waxes in them and had much better luck. Did the TCE/JD method and then did an overnight soak in DA, filtered with cotton and evapped. Final E still looks a little pink though even though SWIM de-redded first. SWIM is praying this batch is on the mark. SWIM will do the RNX probably on Sunday....still got some washing to do with RP. Hopefully SWIM can stop chasing the dragon on Sunday with some fine, very hard worked for bumpage! SWIM will let you know how it goes. Again, this write up rocks, for a first timer SWIM was glad to find something SWIM could actually understand. And after realizing how hard this shit really is to dream, even more praise your way for sharing all that very profound info.

ARISE !!!!!!!!

Question related to a P/P Rp/I reaction:

If the balloon does not inflate, does it mean that the temp is not high enough? They even knocked the heat up to 110 C only to get minimal pressure in balloon. Water bath as oil is not available right now.

Are they right in thinking that the balloon is just a ghetto condensor? One would think that as long as aqueous HI is present, that is all that should matter, as long as rxn temp is kept within proper range.

Did this last Wed night and ran into the same problem, i.e. balloon not expanding. Balloon did expand some, but only minimal. Write up doesn't really say exactly how much balloon should expand so went on with it. Finished each step EXACTLY how write up instructed and to utter surprise, white crystals after evap. Must say, was very intrigued and downright amazed. Smoked good, felt right. Going to give another try with a few adjustments made in notes....mainly slowing down a bit....think end results (volume/grams) would be better. Anyway, hope this helps......as my balloon didn't blow up big and happy either.

my friend swim has seen the balloon get huge, and sometimes it barely puffs up a little, but either way the goods were good.

Cool, that is what they thought, but they wanted to make sure. It is only their second attempt, and the first one they were too impatient and stoppped after 4 hours. Needless to say, got some crystal, but it sure as hell wasn't the right kind.

This time their target time is at least 12 hours.

Thanks for helping them with this info, they will be very happy.

yes to each their own. swia only cooks it for about 2 or 3 hours usually and its fully done. however swia has been doing this a long time and knows not to even consider starting unless your pre's are SUPER clean.

They would just like to say bump, and thank you acidmelt!

Your write up helped them achieve success! The slacker one.

Took 2 tries, because they are stupid noobies, but they got it, and man was it great. That's what they told me anyway.

Just figured I would pass along the thanks and praise.

thank you and your welcome

bump

Man--I gotta admire you guys. swim's been gone filtering chemicals all night, but his cuz is feeling kinda guilty after reading all you the first time cause all he did was just call his psychoroamer, lay out 20 bucks for one g., and has been dreaming all day and all night. Man to get into what you guys are doing must cost beaucoup bucks.

Sounds like you guys are having great fun. Bet some of you guys must to do it then make it at the same time to get the best thrill. Sounds artistic to me.

My crystals are made in China by professionals in little pharmaceutical factories, that can be readily dismantled, airplaned or oxcarted away when necessary, then reassembled quickly. It's clean, cheap, uncut, sometimes really aesthetic and unusually pure and good, but nowhere near as much fun as you guys are having.

nothing is as much fun as what we do. the cook far outweighs the end product.

nuff said

bump!

DatheR

If you love the cook, then why not try your hand at other things? SWISN got into dreaming through explosives. He loved the chemistry so much, and figured, well, why not expand his knowledge?

It's been hella fun too. SWISN isn't even really a tweaker, he just likes to party. And synth shit.

quote:

---

Originally posted by acidmelt:
nothing is as much fun as what we do. the cook far outweighs the end product.

---

yep nothing like a good BBQ to fill the mind and cleanse the soul

bizump...fo shizle my nigger...ha

arent you people afraid to go to jail?

already been there bud

quote:

---

Originally posted by GKTM300MXC:
arent you people afraid to go to jail?

---

for what? excersing our right to free speech under the constitution, NO ONE here does anything, it's all just stories of the past, passed from generation to generation. it's just all speculation and theory, dreams as it were. :0

speed bump...
no pun inteded

almost got to the second page....cant let that happen

You only go to jail if you get caught. That's why I started this new program called clean as you cook. Take everything one step at a time, and when you're finished with something clean it and put it away. You usually have a better end result and you drastically cut back on the risk of explosions.

anybody else notice this thread has been up for over a year? we should give it a birthday party

page 6 beeeoch

[This message has been edited by squeegee (edited 05-03-2005).]

quote:

---

Originally posted by squeegee:
anybody else notice this thread has been up for over a year? we should give it a birthday party

page 6 beeeoch

---

can swim order a stripper for the party ??
strippers for everyone !!!

bump

bizump

bumpity bump

What is the best way to crystalize meth? Water, Alcohol, Methanol, or Acetone? Could you step by step, in detail help me out?

quote:

---

Originally posted by acidmelt:
time release pills must be cracked first. swia believes that mnkeyboys cracked pearls method still works, but swia is not sure becuase he never used time release pills. ephedrine pills will work fine, but what you have there look to be EPHEDRA, with is what ephedrine is obtained from, they are not the same thing. use different pills

---

search for rextalisation, its not hard
but since im here...
make a super-saturated solution of meth in boiling dH2O. add some ice-cold dry tone. give it a stir. keep adding tone till the whole whatsit is cold. (you Will lose some product)

found this somewhere swib didn't even write any of this....

here it is..this is not swims writeupbut got the information from some source swim does not remember...this is just the easy summed up version in swims opinion...

Supplies needed
1. can of acetone
2. coffee filters
3. red bottle heet
4. shot glass
5. Dope
Cleaning Dope
Wrap your dope up in (1) coffee filter like a teabag.
Dunk in ice cold acetone, and soak for a couple mins.
Take out, open up filter to evap the acetone.
Repeat 2 times using new filter, more if needed.
Recyrstalizing Dope
Fill a shotglass � full of your powdered dope.
Remove dope from shot glass till later.
Mix a � acetone & � iso alcohol.
Fill � way full volume of shotglass.
Heat in microwave until bubbles form.
Take out and fill shotglass up with the dope.
Let sit in the freezer for 12 to 24 hours.
Remove break up and let any mositure evap.


Just a small correction to bullit's simple re-xtal...

After letting sit in freezer, once crystals have formed, the liquid should be filtered off, evapped and recrystalized again. The crystals in the shot glass or dish or whatever, should be given a dry acetone flash to clean the outer layer of the shards.

Now repeat the process with the newly cleaned crystals, and see what comes out next time!!! A second recrystalization is well worth the small damage done to the yield.

Lukky D

quote:

---

Originally posted by curbshot:
What is the best way to crystalize meth? Water, Alcohol, Methanol, or Acetone? Could you step by step, in detail help me out?

---

the curbshot i know would never ask a question like this . change your name have you no respect......

bumping this too...
i do all the work round here

i've been bumpin this one lots

lol j/k swis

quote:

---

Originally posted by pikk:

the curbshot i know would never ask a question like this . change your name have you no respect......

---

agreed

quote:

---

Originally posted by mysterio:
lol j/k swis

---

acidmelt posted:
Now you are going to add a little DH20. Add about 2ml to 2.5ml if you are doing over 10 grams and under 1oz of E. If you are using less than 10g or E then you want to add about 1ml to 1.75ml of DH20.
-----my question is- is the dh20 ammount mean per gram of E, or is it mean at all??

could it be any more clear??

the purpose of the dH2O (swim thinks) is for the HI gas produced to dissolve into, to form hydroiodic acid ie liberate the ions, which then reduce the pse

lump

sump

Iodine is often used by campers to purify water and Iodine crystals can be found at camping stores like REI. Is there a problem with using these? Is it I2? Seems like if was usable it would have been made illegal or it is not usable. Seems to easy. Just go buy it rather than use five 4-8 bottles of tincture and the whole purification process. Whatcha think?

OK, my turn
BU UUUUUUUUUU UUUUUUUUMM MMMMMMMMMM MMMMMPPPPP PPPPPPPPPP PPP.
ar ghoditburn s
sniffle
sniffl;e
I need to switch nostrils. My right one's gonna be out of commision for awhile
sniffle
BUUUMMMPPP
AH, now I'm happy. I'm so high, I won't sleep all this weekend

Then rince it with dh20 untill youve run atleast a quart through it... referring to 1B on the red phosphuros section////// what do you mean run a quart through it? are you saying place the red p in a filter and then run a quart of dh20 through the red p in the filter??? sorry i was getin a little skeched out earleyer no offence to u..

Yes that is what it means. Keep pouring dh2o into the filter, until you've poured at least a quart through it.

What are you doing back? I thought we were a bunch of feds. You know, "You almost had me motherfuckers."

AcidMelt im guessin that im lookin like a unstable fucker right bout now and whenever i get high i go pretty much skitzofrenic .. from this point forward im not gonna be postin no more shit unless its a direct question that ive looked up thoroughly..thanks 4 answering my question,the rest looks pretty self explanatory i appreciate youre help. and i appologize , because now that im letting myself comedown off my "ego trip" which ive been on 4 3 days n nights things are becomeing clear again and ive calmed down,u wont hear from me 4 a while k?

oh and dreamalot, thanks

to the top, niggas


FFC

bumpity bumpity boo

so swim is to assume that using 10 g E, 12 g RP, 8 g I2 would give the average novice chemist around a 40-60% yield?

bump

swisv...its 8g red phos, and 12 g I2


bump

(yawwwn)....bump

I have read a lot of the threads not all yet, but the language is new to me. I have reread this thread a few times, my ? is what is a denat pull I am not familiar w/ the term denat. Also when it says sep funnel, does that mean a seperate one (one that is clean and new? I am learning and reading like you suggested. Thanks for reading, and posting such a concise write up.

you clearly havent read as much as you say, Jams a/b and the FAQ thread hold the answers to your questions.

however...

sep funnel = seperatory funnel, rather like this one:

denat = denatured alcohol, ethanol with ~5% other solvents (such as methanol) to make it unfit to drink

Ok, swim has read so much swims head is filled with chemistry. Is there anyone out there who can tell me which recipe is better to start a dream with. Swim has read so many threads that swim is confused as to where to start. I read the FAQ front to end (this included a lot of learning sites) Please tell me which one should be suggested for a noob, that would get them on the right path to successful dreams. Please be sincere, the knowlegde would be accepted most graciously.

[This message has been edited by noobiegirl (edited 06-06-2005).]

SWI6C just did a RP extraction and is evaporating the denat used in the extraction. Will the resulting RP be usable once it is boiled in HCl?

yes.

How do you determine ratios and yield for a reaction of a given size? Is it empirically determined or can you calculate it theoretically?

quote:

---

Originally posted by 6C The Second:
SWI6C just did a RP extraction and is evaporating the denat used in the extraction. Will the resulting RP be usable once it is boiled in HCl?

---

SWI6C got .8g from the denat. Yeilding 2.8g total from 230 stricker pads.

quote:

---

Originally posted by VeneFrigus:
How do you determine ratios and yield for a reaction of a given size? Is it empirically determined or can you calculate it theoretically?

---

look at the writeup for ratios. expect a 60-70% yeild. experienced cooks can probably do better.

can anyone help with my dream. I cant seem to get the I2 crystals with 2% tincture, so my dream wont be such a nightmare.

bumping not only keeps this wonderfully informative write-up on the first page...it also gets rid of a lot of bs posts...like the "has anyone converted ephedrine..."...why are people still replying to that anyway???

I dunno. I dont reply so they fall off the page. I wish everyone would do that.

Need help from an expert!I just ran across some generic psedo,and was wondering if tce/jp would clean them, they have alot of gaks but I think they are old stock because it is close to it's exp.date.So here are the ingrediants.Active-60mg psedo,2.5 trip.The inactives are carnuba wax,flaver,hypromellose,lactose,magnesium stearate,polyethlylene glycol,povidone,starch,sucrose.

never mind,I forgot about the E-gull method

Bump anybody?

how do i do it with the cough syrup that already has liquid psuedoephedrine HCI?
and where would i get the I2 crystals, fertelizers?

quote:

---

Originally posted by beermankrew:
how do i do it with the cough syrup that already has liquid psuedoephedrine HCI?
and where would i get the I2 crystals, fertelizers?

---

would stick with pills rather than syrups anyway...

beerman' - before thinking of buying anything - read more. This thread - and the links in the FAQ thread.

Bump

hi all *bumppp*

first swim wanna say that it's great good work on this collection.

swim dreams to start with extracting PSE out of the pills. ACTIVE INGREDIANTS:
Psudoephedrine HCL .60 mg
tripolidine 2.5 mg

swim got only 2 little questions because it's all new to stuff to swim and it's not so easy to understand for swim without big chemistry knowledge.

is it right that the TCE/JD solution will extract the PSE out of the pills? later the TCE/JD gets evaporated and it keeps pure PSE?
Then swim starts with the aceton-wash to make some crystallization to the PSE, right?

Okay and the last question from swim is only if it's possible to replace the TCE/JD solution with something other which swim can get in europe? the BRAKLEEN in europe doesn't include Tetrachloroethylene. Is Tetra the main reagent or a mix of the solutions in BRAKLEEN?

swim would be thankful for help. the dream to cooking meth makes swim sleepless.

SWIstar

[This message has been edited by star (edited 06-20-2005).]

the TCE/JD will pull out all the crap in the pills EXCEPT the pse. it cleans out all the gakks and shit and leaves you with pse.

Thanks for this info.

But the last question does still stay in the room with that answer. swim's Brakleen doesn't contain any TCE, Methyl Chloroform,.... Are there any other solutions instead of Brakleen (maybe pure TCE+Methyl Chloroform) with the dryer to wash the PSE out of the pills? or shall swim look for other products on the market which ingrediants contains TCE and ... ? Can someone list the needed ingrediants from brakleen and JD?
need workaround for the american BL/JD products.
thanks for answers.



[This message has been edited by star (edited 06-20-2005).]

quote:

---

Originally posted by acidmelt:
all of this will be offered in a better format soon with pics and all. I will have it available for download when I am done, I will not post it since it has pics in it.

---

Is that available?

okay i ask in some other way to get:

if swim can't get brakleen + japan dryer for the extraction, can swim buy every other product on market which contains ingrediants like Tetrachloroethylene & carbon dioxide (brakleen) + Napathenic Salts & Petroleum Distillates (japan dryer) ?



[This message has been edited by star (edited 06-20-2005).]

Peeps are getting too hung up on the TCE/JD - espcially seeing as the latest pill formulations will thwart that extraction method.

there are 2 threads at WD -

Dwarfer's - "so you want clean"

and WhoMe's "Pickled P - Straight to B III"

which have seemingly replaced the KOH boils as the 'must have' extraction method that currently defeast all.

None of these use hard to get chems and work on the current formulations.

would have asked them and cut/pasted the info over here - but the whole threads are too long...

not sure if any of the board members here have utilised these methods.... swiBT hasnt as he is a) currently not active, b) lives in a gakk free country.

so check them out at WD.

can swibt tell swis what WD is? i think some board like totse?

Yes it's " wetdreams.ws"

BUMP!

a quick question, could the ghetoo equivelents of a nippled flask be used, lets say with a corona bottle and a hose to fit it and ur thumb used the same way?

DUH!


[This message has been edited by SpeedyDreamer (edited 06-21-2005).]

swim has a question to ask.. swim had no JD so he did without it. crushed the pills real fine. swim then put it in a clean jar and added the TCE. he let it sit for a min then filtered it. dried and chopped then sieved again. then he put back the pill mass(wich by the way was not a cloudy grayish/blue color. it was still white) in the clean jar used DA. he dont know what decant means. maybe he need help on that part. but anyway i evaped was left with powder again repeated that twice still no crystals like AM says. he wish i needed sunglasses but i dont know whats goin on can any1 help me. thanks ahead of time for any helpful replys

The blue color is from the JD.

when will the guide with the pictures be available??

1st decant means to pour off the top. SWISD blends in coffee bean grinder, soaks in TCE, filters, dries well, soaks in Denat,decants through filter, nukes 1 min at a time till done, (you'll know),scrapes out, crushes well,soaks in tone, filters, dries well.
Tah Dah!!!

swim has a question. last night he was thinkin to himself that he messed this whole batch up. he did TCE pull dried chop sived then the DA soak but threw away the liquid. he thinks he answered his own question by wondering what the hell what went wrong and rereading the synth. but he needs a pro to confirm or tell what was wrong.so here we go

SWIM was thinking the reason he was left with the almost pastey pill mass wass cause he didnt need it no more in the end. the TCE pulls all the gakks then the DA pulls the PSE. and he was supposed to evape the DA seperatly and be left with the crystals or powder dunno if the crystalization happens after the acetone wash. anyway swim hopes he headed in the right direction . so if swim is headed in the right direction then he is right that the pill mass is garbage at the end that he is supposed to be evaping just the DA pulled off the pill mass. cause at first he evaped the da off of th pill mass. and was left with almost pasty powder. should he through that batch out at this point? and also swim has enough RP but what a pain in the ass it was to filter it. is there anyways that speed that up. cause the RP kept cloggin the filter and he thinks he ended up throughin alot away considering what he gotten. thanks again

*BUMP*

SWISD saves pill mass for a while and just adds on top, if ever is needed just a g or 2, SWIM can always squeeze that out of old pill mass. And YES the de-nat liquid is what is kept not thrown away. And more H2o poured over the RP will speed filtering (SWIM can't use too much H2o when cleaning RP)

Yea, SWIM had trouble with this section of it when he started cleaning pills because he misunderstood it. PSE is souluble in Denat. You do your TCE/JD and pull out the PSE with the Denat. Evap it. SWIU should see crystals of PSE on his plate/surface. When SWIM gets done evapping he usually only sees crystalline PSE. I would think that you could tell if there were more gakks in there...I doubt caranuba wax and all that crystallizes. You'll probably just see some powder in there with it.

whenever you need to cook shit is a hot plate the only thing you can use? i dont really want to use my stove cus its inside but we have like this propane thing but it has an open flame so idk if that would be too risky.

As was said earlier SWISD uses only the microwave for PSE. 1&1/2 min at a time til done. open door each time and let air out.( SWISD uses a little porta-fan) only takes about 31/2 min total.

Swim has been reading, reading, and reading....and just about ready to dream...
Any last minute tips or tricks?

quote:

---

Originally posted by wildwestten:
Any last minute tips or tricks?

---

Dont drive over narrow bridges when you're fucked out of your mind!

fucked out of your mind or fucked up out of your mind? Big diff.

Clean the living hell out of your precursors. And for best results let the shit dry.

Post #199....WHOS NEXT?

me...i mean..bump?

in no way have i ever cooked, will cook, or thought about cooking. mainly because i am 1. too impatient
2. have no clue when it comes to chemistry
3. dont do drugs

anyway, that out of the way, question i have for all the swims out there: what is some info on the smell that goes along with the dream. with meth being such a saturated drug throughout the u.s., i am pretty sure not all meth is produced in rural areas, meaning, i'm sure there are plenty of cooks in apartment complexs and suburban communities. is the propaganda that the media spreads about the "highly noticable chemical smell coming from a meth lab" really that bad. would somebody in a fairly dense suburb be able to dream safely? are there any tips or tricks of the trade to cover/hide said smell.
all in all, i just find this stuff interesting, and have always pondered that question. responses and flames will now be welcomed!

Anyone else notice on lab-tips these days we seem to have an unusually large contingent of people who
1. have never cooked
2. will never cook
3. will never think about cooking
but still want to know all about it? What's up with that?

Sir dreamalot? you wouldnt happen to have msn mssg, or aim, and a few min to spare B.S.'n would you?

guess not then, oh well. no worries.

mmm... bump bump

swim had a few quick questions for AM or anyone familiar with the procedure..

1. swiam says to put a balloon on the end of the tubing but also says put thumb over the end.. well which one is it? if u have a balloon that defeats the purpose of using ur thumb.

2. he says set temp at 150F, well swims hotplate is not able to read like that, what is the temp of the oil bath? just a rough estimate will do fine.

quote:

---

Originally posted by dmeth:
swim had a few quick questions for AM or anyone familiar with the procedure..

1. swiam says to put a balloon on the end of the tubing but also says put thumb over the end.. well which one is it? if u have a balloon that defeats the purpose of using ur thumb.

2. he says set temp at 150F, well swims hotplate is not able to read like that, what is the temp of the oil bath? just a rough estimate will do fine.

---

1. the thumb over the end is just at that particular point in the proceedings, not like swim is gonna sit there with their thumb on it for a couple of hours.... the ballon is there to allow the set-up to reflux and stop gasses escaping to screw swims life up, and also to 'safely' deal with the pressure.

2. swim will have to do a test run with a thermometer and mark on the dial(permanent marker, paint - something) where the temps are.

okay thansk for the answer on the first question swibong

but the 2nd question was not about marking (swim already had planned on marking this down) but he was wondering, in acidmelts synth he doesnt specify what the OIL BATH temp should be, only what the DIAL says, swim is curious about the oil temp, should he assume it means 150F as well inside the bath?

and the great swigeez over at WD said that 500ml flasks are only good for about a 15g reaction, is that true? swim was thinking that 20 might be suitable

sorry swim is asking to much

could push/pull tanks be used in place of balloon/hose?

[This message has been edited by dmeth (edited 07-16-2005).]

Yeah, 150 means 150 inside the bath. That seems to be the common temp to start reacting shit. If your chilli isn't smoking and bubbleing, turn it up 10 degrees every 10 mins until it does. But if you hit 180, and still no redox, chances are it isn't. If you have a 500ml flask, which you heard was good for 15gs, just do 15 now. Experiment latewr, to learn just how much you actually can reduce. No sense wasting half an ounce, or having it come out under-reduced.

Magna Cum Laude = Bump

im confused about the first part with the matchbooks, do you need 1000 of these black strips:
http://img338.imageshack.us/img338/4381/bicmatchbooks2wo.jpg

?

quote:

---

Originally posted by mighty moe:
im confused about the first part with the matchbooks, do you need 1000 of these black strips:
[URL=http: //img338.i mageshack. us/img338/ 4381/bicma tchbooks2w o.jpg]http ://img338. imageshack.us/img338/4381/bicmatchbooks2wo.jpg[/URL]

?

---

That would be correct. Make sure to cut right on the edges.

what the fuck , its the first paragraph that is clearly unable to be described in my opinion without elaboration.. AFTER PUTTING ON THE BALLOON AND TAPING IT ON, how long do you keep yout thumb over the hole to let the HI gas into the balloon? and what purpose does this give? and is it vital to success to hold it?

What are the white 60`s? sudafed? Also didnt ephedra become legal again a couple of months ago, so If I got my hands on some ephedra pills I could just skip the whole Extracting Psuedoephedrine part right?

quote:

---

Originally posted by mighty moe:
What are the white 60`s? sudafed? Also didnt ephedra become legal again a couple of months ago, so If I got my hands on some ephedra pills I could just skip the whole Extracting Psuedoephedrine part right?

---

any kind of pills beside the active ingredient(s) contains always inactive ingredients. That also applies to vitamins pills.

Not to offend you, your question denote evidently a lack of acquired knowledge which could be remediated by self research and reading.

quote:

---

Originally posted by ceci:



Not to offend you, your question denote evidently a lack of acquired knowledge which could be remediated by self research and reading.

---

shut up faggot

Words are a tool of communications and are often used to the detriment of their real meaning, said in certain context of time and place they may carry seeds for peace or war in our world.

I lay the fate of mightymoe to the care of our moderators.

That was beautiful swici

Hey AM, are you sure these temps are right and not supposed to be 150C? Because SWISD has tried it twice as per instruct to no avail (not done). He just completed his 1st lwr at 100C or 212F. Now how is it that takes 36 hrs and the slacker at lower temps only takes 1&1/2 to 2 hrs?

----(usually)

quote:

---

Originally posted by SpeedyDreamer:
Hey AM, are you sure these temps are right and not supposed to be 150C? Because SWISD has tried it twice as per instruct to no avail (not done). He just completed his 1st lwr at 100C or 212F. Now how is it that takes 36 hrs and the slacker at lower temps only takes 1&1/2 to 2 hrs?

----(usually)

---

Part of the answer is that (and not wanting to open the LWR vs. short drier "Slacker") is that the Slacker falls foul of the same sorts of things as Speedys 12 min dream... albeit to a much lesser extent.

the slacker will not gives as good/pure rxn as the LWR - and A/M has acknowledged this before.... but the iodo-meth and other intermediaries are 'liked' by some people..

it is generally described as the high from slacker product is more euphoric (bells, starts & whistles, partying with the shadow people etc), but has less legs than the full LWR product.

Actually read the "Why It Takes Time" section of the Lava Lamp LWR (listed in the FAQ thread) to gain an understanding in the time/temp side of things...

did any of that make any fucking sense... LOL ?

Yes, a little, seems like some were discussing this the other day,(ware & geez) and they said temps had to be minimun 212F to convert anything. Like the "Speedy" way, at least the temps are high enough to convert. SWISD thought lower temps=longer cooks and vise-versa. However AM's Slacker is lower temps-shorter time. SWISD was just thinking it could be a typo and should be 150C instead if F, which would make sense.

---(still)

bumpin' time

actually in a LWR most of the product is converted to meth in the first couple hours. the rest is just slowly purifying those last little bits that make the old timers very happy to conver it ALL..

One gets more bees with honey, then to slapped at them!

jam is a liar

he no more wrote that step by step a/b than the man in the fucking moon--

bump

All in the name of bump.

aaahh - no stickies....

bump

quote:

---

Originally posted by theyarenothing:
jam is a liar

he no more wrote that step by step a/b than the man in the fucking moon--

---

Hold yer horses there, uhh nothing....I happen to know that Jam is not a liar. In fact he's helped Switrd out a time or two in the past. If Jam copied it, he'll give due credit. So unless you know more or better ..keep it down.

"If Jam copied it, he'll give due credit."

haha yeah he wont. he copied shit and claimed it as his own for years. everyone here knows that and it has been proven many times now.

Damn, AM, Speedy thought you fell off the face of the earth.lol. Everything going to suit you?

Hmm...maybe there are 2 different jams?? Hahahah Well, ok then...he's a liar and never gives due credit! Why was I not informed?

Jam is a liar cthulhujr wrote it. It was first posted on the Hive.

Jam should have never signed his name to it.