What will this do to a car windshield or a plate-glass window from across a street?

Please speak from experience.

Any other damage stories in this fps/cal range is appreciated.

I have not experimented too much with airguns.

A BB will leave a hole or a large crack. A pellet will chip the glass or just bounce off.

~Zero the Inestimable

700fps for a airgun is pretty impressive. Best i've ever seen was about 400fps. Fill us in on the, Make? Model? Modifications?

You say you haven't experimented too much but chronographing your gun doesn't count?

Those are company specs. Its from airsoftus.com it fires a .177 pellet (i've seen a .22 version of the same rifle but lost the catalog) http://www.airsoft.org/airrifles.htm
it is rifle #QB-6

Its black, all steel, with a folding stock. I need something discreet,compact, and durable with enough punch to take out heavy glass, in the $100 range.

[This message has been edited by Koroshiya (edited 04-25-2002).]

700fps is high, but nothing amazing for .177.
With a good quality pellet ( crosman ) and a low grain weight, it can be achieved by a lot of 12 lb/lb air rifles here in the UK.

If you use a pointed tip round, rather than a flat headed match round, you can look to shatter side and rear windows, and crack a windscreen. A decent pnumatic, ( BSA super ten, Theoburn Rapid Mk II) can be quoted up to 860fps ( theoburn Mk II, using .177 crosman powerpell).

Some high powered air rifles, which need a fire arms certificate ( anything over 12 ft/lb here in blighty ) can easily crack 1000 fps in .22 or .25 calibre. Theoburn Eliminator or BSA patriot for example.

700 fps will, with a head shot, guarentee to kill a rabbit at between 30-35 yards. A street is maybe 5 yards wide.....

RipSlider.

That will definately penetrate one pane of window glass @ 30 ft with a bb....probably a pellet too. Just get a .22 air rifle if you want to do some major damage....that reminds me I have two sheridans in 5mm they are heavy as hell and leak a little....maybe I should drag them out of the closet

My concern is the effect it will have on 1/4 inch plate glass and standard car windshields.

what is everyone talking about? it wont do shit. at best it will chip the glass with a pelet. bb's just bounce off of most glass. if its incredibly thin it will break otherwise your wasting your money. why do you want to destroy a car window? thats just lame.

quote:

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Originally posted by syphon detonator:
what is everyone talking about? it wont do shit. at best it will chip the glass with a pelet. bb's just bounce off of most glass. if its incredibly thin it will break otherwise your wasting your money. why do you want to destroy a car window? thats just lame.

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You should confine your opinions to topics you know something about, such as "eating nachos under a bridge." I guess you just like to read your own typing. I'll make it a point to remember your name so I dont waste my time reading your posts in the future.

*wonders if he should get some marshmellows*

Question?....

Which is better the .177 caliber or the .22 caliber airguns, manual pump or CO2?

I know it sounds kind of stupid but I'm not much into air rifles/pistols.

Shad

Firstly, I have seen 9mm and .40 S&W both be stopped by auto glass, and only penetrate when two shots hit close to eachother, so .177 will not likely do much. .22 sabots fired from a RWS Diana spring-piston air rifle at an estimated 900 fps were completely stopped by two .20 inch plexiglass plates. Auto glass is designed not to shatter, so all that any round will do to it is produce a hole.

To Shadow Spawn: Single-stroke pneumatic air rifles are very low powered. Multi-stroke pnuematic air rifles may be more powerful, but pumping quickly becomes a nusance, and since the rate at which you pump can effect the heat of the compressed air, they are potentially less accurate. CO2 can be expensive, but it allows quick follow-up shots, and if you want medium power at low cost, they are your best option. If you can afford it, buy a spring-piston rifle, because they require only one stroke to cock, and are potentially the highest powered type of air rifle. There are a few downsides to spring-piston air rifles, however. Unlike the other types, you cannot leave a spring-piston air rifle cocked for long without damaging it. There is also the minor problem of the piston jerking the gun when you fire, but unless you plan to compete in a semi-pro match league, this should not be a problem.

Thank you to everyone who offered realistic information in response to the question.

Here is the objective, a projectile weapon that will penetrate plate glass and car windshields from 25-35 yards that will be:

a) quiet
b) smaller than a rifle
c) durable
d) not require a projectile larger than a bullet or ball bearing
d) priced to be disposable (under $150.)

Options at this point seem to be airguns or "wrist rocket" slingshots.

A good crossbow is your best bet, but it is large. Don't expect a pistol crossbow to cut it.

I have a self-made slingshot that can shoot through a car hood, and it might be able to penetrate auto-glass, but it is vastly more powerful than any commercial slingshot.

In summary, a+b+c+d+e=does_not_exist

[This message has been edited by steelblade (edited 04-26-2002).]

I'll experiment with a few things and report back later.

I'm avoiding arrows and suppressed firearms.

Remember that hunting airguns are also available in .32, 9mm, .40, .45, .50, .60, .62, etc. While these rifles cost $750-$2000 and may require you to have a high-pressure pump, they are the weapons that best satisfy your need.

A very powerful compound cross bow, the rhino, is stated as having a fps velocity of 285 fps, which is far lower than an air rifle.

Shadow Spawn: Most of the top air-rifles, and the big powerful ones, these days use pnumatics. This involves having a pre-charged cylinder which compressed air in it ( usually 400cc, with pressure from 2,800 to 3000 psi) these are charged off a divers air bottle. The advantage is that, if you get a regulated one, such as Theo's or some BSA,s you can look at 300-500 identical shots, with zero recoil. CO2 power is generally limited, as it is stored at much lower pressures. 8ft/lb being about the maximum available ( Crosman RabbitStopper)

Koroshiya: USe a heavy grained, point nosed pellet ( even better, use one of thre new lead alloys, as they're steel based, so much harder), in a .22 calibre. This should easily shatter 1/4" plate glass up to 1`5-20 yards.

Wind screens are laminated though, with plastic layers in between two glass layers. Can not say for sure what effect this will have. All the other window panes on a car are made to a lower fracture tolerance, so should be no problem to about 15 yards.

Ripslider

Is it just me, or do 95 percent of the people in this thread have no idea what they're talking about?

I have a .177 air rifle that easily attains 700 FPS. I've been firing it at glass for ages. For the most part, pellets are softer than glass. They flatten when they hit it and either bounce or skim off, possibly cracking the glass through sheer transfer of momentum if you're lucky. Windsheld glass will chip if you're lucky. A BB will break most pane glass (house windows, some car side windows) and usually leave an odd cone shaped hole or a dent in heavier glass.

I'd recommend a spring piston airgun for most use, since you only need to 'pump' it once, and it never needs CO2 cartridges or refils from a scuba tank. All you need is the gun and a pocketfull of pellets.

If you're going to shatter windsheilds, though, just throw bricks. How far do you think you can wing one?

~Zero the Inestimable

Or, do it up close and personal...

Half a brick, in an old sock. Swung round.

You can either aim and let go ( pussy!)

Or you can go slap that windsreen, and show it who's really boss.

RipSlider.

I presented specific requirements (stated) for a specific reason (not stated)

The advice recieved from people with some experience, and suggestions based on my requirements, was appreciated.

Speculation or adviced based on assumptions about my unstated purpose have nothing to do with me.

Steelblade, good lord man!

You wrote, "Firstly, I have seen 9mm and .40 S&W both be stopped by auto glass" I've love to know what brand of ammunition you were using.

Obviously shitty ammo and something i'd like to stay clear of in the future!

I've gotten the oppertunity to do penatration and expansion tests using a car window and ballastic gellatin a long time ago. The 40S&W penatrated more as the jacket didn't deform as much when coming in contact with the autoglass. Never had a problem with penatration with the 9X19MM either.

And then there's the .357SIG that has the said ability to be able to punch through car doors

I went to that airgun manufacter site and I was stunned. They BB guns that I used to play with a long time ago have changed.

They were offering a air rifle that shot at 1,150fps for only $159.99!

The POS airguns that we had 10-15 years ago sucked ass.

Let me guess. Was this 1,150 FPS airgun a Gamo? That's more like 900 FPS with light pellets and a following wind...

Rule one for buying airguns is never to believe the FPS rating. They're ususally measured with unrealistically light (plastic) pellets that would in reality damage the gun if you used them yourself. That and an extra 50 to 100 added for good measure (and good marketing) is what you usually find on the box.

Silly, but true.

~Zero the Inestimable

The 9mm and .40S&W were fired by police at a Chevy Suburban during a SWAT drug raid a few years ago. I believe that the police video-recorded the raid, so you may be able to see it. You would have to contact the Indianapolis Police Department to get more information. The confiscated Suburban is shown to IPD and Marion County Sherif's Deputies durign training and compared with other panes of auto-glass showing the damage done by different ammo types.

Well assuming this was ordinary auto glass, ammunition must have gotten a lot better since then. I've commonly seen cases of overpenatration using these rounds. Recently I was invited and took part in a training simulation based on serving a high risk warrant at a residence. After engaging various targets and clearing the house, I inspected the POI of my rounds and their route to rest, In one isntance rounds blew through atleast 5 walls and a bathroom cabinet before they came to rest striking the exterior wall of the mock house which consisted of concrete stucco.

Ammunition used, Winchester 9X19MM 115gr FMJ and Speer Lawman 40cal 165gr FMJ.

I can't stress enough on being aware of your background in your involved in a shooting situation in a urban enviroment. Some individuals have opted to carry frangable ammunition for these reasons.

Alot of new shooters who get involved in *other training* commonly forget they can shoot through some types of cover in effort to incapicate the BG. There was a simulation a BG blocked himself with a newspaper and the trainee hesitated taking a shot until he dropped the paper.

BTW Zero, I really don't have any intrest in air rifles, just was relaying information that I read.

I figured as much. Just informing the masses...

~Zero the Inestimable

quote:

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Originally posted by SUPERKILLER1911:
They reported my family to the town board for having a junkyard behind(on the side) of my house.

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WTF? you have a junkyard? ever thought that maybe it should be reported

No its more like construction shit my dad uses for his building company(makes houses)