...too keep out those ugly neighbor kids. As a bonus, this is the type of fence most law enforcement officers recomend as long as you don't follow steps 5 and 6.

Step 1

LOCATING AND SETTING TERMINAL POSTS

(Corner, end and gate posts are called terminal posts)

Stretch a chalk line or string between stakes driven on the extension of property lines. Allow about 24" on the offset. It is recommended that posts be set approximately 4" inside property line to avoid encroaching on the adjoining property with the concrete footings.

Mark the location of each corner and end post with a small stake.

ITS IMPORTANT.....

1.That fence footings do not exceed legally established property lines. If uncertain, refer to real-estate agents line plot or consult a professional surveyor.

2.Check local codes or specifications regarding frontage locations, height, etc. A permit may be required

3.Check with local utility companies for locations of underground cables, pipes and lines.

When determining the positions of gate posts remember that clearance of hinges, latches, etc. is included in the listed width of the gate. Therefore; if you ordered a gate 36" wide, the opening between the posts you are about to install should be exactly 36," inside post face to inside post face.


Gates come in the following standard widths:

Single walk ----- 36," 42" and 48"
Double drive --- 10' and 12'


TOOLS YOU WILL FIND USEFUL

String or, chalk line and stakes
Tape measure
Post hole digger
Wheelbarrow, shovel and hoe to mix and transport concrete
Carpenters level
1/2" X 9/16" wrench or crescent wrench
Hack saw or pipe cutter
Fence stretcher
Pliers

Holes for terminal posts

Although post depth will be determined by local weather and soil conditions, holes for terminal posts are normally dug 8" wide and 18" to 30" deep with vertical sides.

Now dig all terminal post holes.

Next with crayon or chalk, mark the ground line on posts. Height, above level ground, of terminal posts will equal the width of the fence fabric plus 2". Height of line posts (intermediate posts) will equal the width of the fabric minus 2".

Set all terminal posts in concrete. Center posts in hole. Set with crayon mark at ground level. Alignment should be from the center not the outside face of the posts. Check plumb with a carpenters level. Finally, crown all post footings for water drainage by sloping concrete away from posts.


Step 2

LOCATING AND SETTING LINE POSTS (INTERMEDIATE POSTS)

After concrete footing have hardened enough for posts to remain plumb, stretch a string taunt between terminal posts. It should be positioned on the outside face of the posts 4" below the top .

Measure the distance between the terminal posts.

Mark the locations of all line posts with stakes. Align with the centers of terminal posts.

Now dig the post holes (normally 6" wide and 18" to 24 deep) and set the line posts. Before the concrete begins to set, adjust post height by carefully moving post up and down in footing. Top of line posts should be even with string; outside face approximately 1/4" inside. Check plumb with carpenters level. Crown footings as in step 1.


Step 3

ADDING FITTINGS TO TERMINAL POSTS

Refer to Parts and Materials list for description and quantity of fittings required for various post types and heights.

After concrete footings have been allowed to harden sufficiently, slip tension bands, long flat surface toward outside or wire side, onto terminal posts. Next add brace bands. Take care not to spread or distort the fittings. Then apply all terminal post caps.


Step 4

ADDING TOP RAIL

Place eye-top fitting on each line post. Offset should be toward the outside of post. Then, thread a length of top rail pipe through the eye-tops on the line posts adjacent to a terminal post. Slip on a rail-end and attach the combination to brace band already on the terminal post, with a 5/16" X 1 1/4" carriage bolt. Continue by forcing lengths of swedge end top rail together through the eye-tops. If swedge end top rail is not used, join lengths with top rail sleeve. Cut last piece of rail to fit tightly between prior length and rail-end when fastened to brace band on terminal post. Secure in place with a carriage bolt.


Step 5

HANGING FENCE FABRIC

Starting at a terminal post, unroll chain link fabric on the ground along the outside of the fence line to the next terminal post.Then, slide a tension bar through the first row of chain link.Fasten evenly spaced tension bands (already on the post) to the tension bar, fabric combination. Use 5/16" X 1 1/4" carriage bolts; heads to the outside of the fence.

Now, walk along the fabric and stand it up against the fence frame, taking out the slack as you go. Loosely attach fabric to top rail with a few wire ties to hold it in place. Next, separate enough fabric from the roll to span the opening between the terminal posts. It is now necessary to cut the wire.


REMOVING EXCESS FABRIC

With a pair of pliers, open the top and bottom loops (knuckles) of a single strand of wire at the desired point of separation. Unwind the strand up through the links until the fabric comes apart.

SPLICING SECTIONS OF FABRIC

Using a single strand of wire, removed from the end of the fabric, join the two sections by winding the strand down, corkscrew style, through the end links. Join and tighten the knuckles at the top and bottom to secure. Note: before sections can be spliced, a second strand may need to be removed to provide a proper mesh.


Step 6

STRETCHING THE FENCE FABRIC

Insert a tension bar about 3' inside the unattached end of the fabric. Then, securely fasten one end of a fence stretcher to this bar; the other end to terminal post. Stretch fabric until it becomes taut. To judge proper tension, squeeze the diamonds formed by the wire with your hands. Fabric tension is sufficient if a slight amount of slack is created. Adjust fabric to correct length by adding or removing wire. Then insert a tension bar and connect to the tension bands on the terminal post. After removing the fence stretcher, fasten the fabric securely with tie wires, spaced approximately 24" apart along the top rail and 12" apart on each line post. Finally, securely tighten nuts on all brace and tension bands.


Step 7

HANGING GATES

The same procedure is used on both single walk and double drive gates. Apply (male) hinges to gate post. To prevent gate from being lifted off, top post hinge should be installed with the pin pointing down, bottom post hinge should be installed with the pin pointing up. Set gate in place, aligning top of gate with top of fence. Adjust hinges to allow for full swing. Position gate latch at convenient height. Tighten all bolts securely.

I can't spell nice.

sweet ass your helping now als we have to do is get people to come her spread the word!!!!!

Of course I'm helping! What'd you think I was going to do? Sit on my thumbs?

well actually i thought you were like gonna sit on your thumb if you know what i mean hey read my topic on how to make your own wine it has it's own recipe

When you sit on your thumbs, do you point them up?

No advertising other threads in my thread!

north

z2m - that's pretty cool there, I just went to town on my gate after reading that post.
My dog 13 yrs old died on laborday, so I started rebuilding the gate (my dog had chewed through it) I got the gate rebuilt and then I notice that I won't open and close, because the gate drags on the ground, so I start checking the post and sure enough it is roted out right where the dirt hits the post.

So I spend a couple hours with a pick, and shovel and breaker bar, sledge hammer and some four letter explicives (not explosives) and finally I dig the damn thing out. I am left with a hole 36" deep and 2' at the top!

So I get about 5 bags of cement and mix them in the wheel barrel 1 bag at a time and I start dumping all that in there untill I get to the top. I put an old 10 gallon plant bucket with the bottom removed and one side cut so I can slip it over the top of the post and I use this as a form to eliminate some of the cement--If I wouldn't have used these it Anyway, I pretty much use this technique to avoid having a Giant underground slab because this is a pretty tight area to work in and if I ever got to remove that S.O.B. again I will be really pissed off. And I would probably be using about 7 bags of cement instead of just 5.

I get it to a decent level and then I decide I want a 3" pad on top so I knock together some stakes and forms and then I pour a cool little top pad that keeps the wood 3-5" (I'd estimate) above the damn Soil Level and I use a mag on it to make it bring the cream to the top, by about 10:45PM at night with a flashlight I go out and get the burner and I burn that puppy about as flat and smooth as a garage floor. I hate exposed aggrigate but it is easier to do exposed than to burn it flat. So it basically took me all day to do it. from 7AM to 11:00PM then the next day I get up and I have a beer and I hang the gate.
ANd I tell you what, it's so cool. I love new construction. I got a new dog from the SPCA and it is so cool because no dogs can't dig underneath no more! I think now I want to do a Mow-Stripping all around the whole Fence. Sure this aint Chain-Link, I got wood fence--Fact the whole project was wood, but it sure was fun. I love to swing hammers and cut things up with my skillsaw.

Then after I have a dog and I poured the cement and everything, I find out the DRAINS have a damn Tree Roots In there!#%! I was soo pissed off.....

So I stick a hose down the Drain and I find How Far down the hose stops. I run it on the ground across the Cement and Gate, and I see I just Barely stopped like 6" PAST where I pour the mud at. THank God... anyway So I start digging and there are Tree Roots that are more than 8" in diameter I mean Really NASTY stuff in there and So I had to sharpen my axe with a metal blade and the skillsaw two times in order to make it through, and Sure enough -- in the 3" drain pipe there is almost 3 damn inches of roots in there. I do not know HOW i managed to dig exactly in the spot that had the problem, but I did it perfectly and I got me a new TEE and a coupling and Two more Grates and I put in a new drain on one side of the gate and one on the Backyard side of the gate. I fills the hole with all the extra DRY dirt I have left over from the 5 bags of cement job. I put the wet mud into the Green Garbage Can that the City picks up and then I go get me a roll of sod, and I drop that in. Blam. Instantly the values of the neighba-hood is increased.

total cost about only 100 bucks. 50 dollars for beer and 50 dollars for stuff. Cool huh?


Time to go to the store and get some more beer, hang the American Flag up on my new flagpole, and kick it in the garage with the ball game and my cool ass workbench and my new dog.

Life is good, sometime the world seems out of control but if you keep focused and have a positive goal it will pass. Nothing is more important than life... NOTHING. not things, or stuff, or beer. NOTHING.