 Novelty ID
Since Bad Ideas has become so full of IDIOT ideas, I thought it needed some new life in the form of something "bad" that wasn't neccesarily STUPID. So i've compiled a tutorial from various other tutorials i've found on how to create a good novelty ID. No I won't sell you a fake ID. Well anyway, here it is.
Need an ID to get into a bar? Sick of some idiot behind the counter at 7/11 telling you you can't buy cigarettes without an ID? Well i'm writing this file, based on knowledge gotten from the experienced members of the counterfeitlibrary forums and shadowcrew.com forums. The info here contains too much stuff from other people for me to figure out who invented what to give them credit, so i'm not gonna bother try, but I didn't invent all these methods.
This is for use where not against the law, for novelty purposes only. I am not responsible for anything you may do as a result of reading this. By reading any further you agree to not use this to commit any illegal acts or reproduce any copyrighted works. I am not responsible for you if you go and get yourself in trouble.
Many of the methods of reproducing IDs involve expensive, and/or hard to find equipment. I will attempt to avoid methods that require expensive or hard to find equipment. Don't be afraid to experiment, and if you do fiind a better way to do something, PLEASE POST IT!!! There are better methods than the ones I explain here, but they are not cheap.
What you will need: A computer, an inkjet printer, Epson C80 or C82 recommended, Adobe photoshop, Teslin, laminating pouches (butterfly pouches) a laminator, adobe photoshop or illustrator ( if you're lucky enough to find a vector template), your template (try #identification on DALnet) , the hologram powders for your chosen state, transparencies, your picture, scanned or taken with a digital camera.
You put your info into the text layers in the template in photoshop, add your picture, print it on the teslin. That's the easy part. Now you need to make the holograms. Each state is different, here's a list of mixtures that work well.
Minessota- 40 Sparkle, 10 macropearl, 50 Gold int.
Cali 2000- Interference gold 45, Macropearl 45, Sparkle Gold 10
Arizona 01- 50%macropearl, 50%interference gold
Illinois- 60%interference red, 40%red russet
Connecticut 00-01- 50 Red Interference, 50 Red Russet
Massachusetts- 90macropearl, 10int. Silver
Georgia- 60 Interference Red, 10green/blue, 10 green/yellow, 20 Macropearl
Texas- 38%int gold, 38% macropearl, 8%sparkle gold, 16% sirchie
Virginia- Interference gold
You should be able to buy all these from the sites at the bottom.
The Inkjet Holo Method:
This is copied and pasted from someone else, and was meant to be used on PVC, but you should be able to use it on teslin before you laminate it.
You will need the following ingredients:
- Inkjet Printer (I used a HP Deskjet 960c)
- Inkjet Transparencies
- Holo powder
- PVC Card
- Laminator w/Temp control.
For the OR holos, I had to manually edit them in photoshop with a 1 pixel eraser. I made the letters and the circles and some details AS THIN AS POSSIBLE. If you do not do this your holo will come out quite thick and look like shit. I also set my print to print on "HP Photo Glossy Paper" instead of transparency. This seems to work better!
Step 1: There are two sides to an inkjet transparency, the side you're supposed to print on, and the side you're not. Remember this. Before you print out your holo make sure it is as light gray as possible, without sacrificing the printing detail. Also make sure the holo is flipped horizontally before printing out!!! Print out the transparency on the side YOUR NOT SUPPOSED TO. THATS RIGHT, PRINT IT OUT ON THE OPPOSITE SIDE OF WHAT YOU USUALLY WOULD DO FOR A TRANSPARENCY.
Step 2: Now, take a brush (I've found like a makeup brush or something works) and dab it in the holo powder (might want to add a "dilluter" or something to get just the right tone of gold), BE GENEROUS! Now blow it from the brush onto the transparency (might want to do this in a nice spacious area) Then wipe off the brush and use it to generously wipe off the excess powder (not too hard, but make sure to get alot of the excess off!) Cut the transparency so that the bottom will line up with the card if placed in a carrier (will make sense in a sec)
Step 3: Take the card and the transparency, and line them up with each other in the carrier, so it looks like your trying to laminate a giant pouch onto the card...
Step 4:
I don't know how other peoples laminators are, but I have a Fellow's and it has a dial but no temp. gauge, so I set my dial midway (not hot, but not just warm).
Step 5:
Run the card and transparency through the laminator. Now wait a minute, then remove the combo from the carrier. The transparency will be LIGHTLY stuck to the card, but will just fall right off if not handled with care. Now just lightly peel off the transparency and you should be left with ONE HELLUVA DAMN GOOD HOLO!
Now you probaly don't need UV, but if you want it, here's another copied and pasted tutorial on how to do it cheaply.
Hacking and refilling inkjet cartridges with UV inks is not a difficult task for most people. The cartridges are little more than a plastic box filled with a sponge or a bag. The basic goal is to clean the cartridge and refill it with UV ink. All that is needed to clean most cartridges are distilled water, rubbing alcohol,(Isoprophyl alcohol 70% minimum)a razor, a sink and a minimum of patience and effort.
First, we need to clean the inkjet cartridge so that no visible color residues remain in the cartridge.
We do this by removing the top of the cartridge. (Solid color plastic on most cartridges.) Remove the top by gently prying it off with a utility knife from the back. Work your way to the front and remove the lid.
Now, make a 50/50 mix of distilled water and 70% Isoprophyl alcohol.
Use this mixture to thoroughly wash the inside of the cartridge clean.
You must thoroughly clean/wash the sponge/bag and rubber flap assembly or screen assembly on the bottom vacuum regulation or ink feed hole if present.
This might require partial removal of parts from the cartridge itself. Use your judgment and common sense to determine this.
Once everything is clean, we need to flush the feed resevoir on the catridge itself. Reassemble your cleaned parts if necessary.
Fill the cartridge with the alcohol/water mixture. Cap the top with the lip and secure with duct tape for now.
Insert the cartridge into the printer and prime if necessary. Then print about ten pages or so until there is no visible ink pigment present on the paper. Just a light clear misting. You can also run the printhead cleaning utility that came with your printer if applicable.
After this has been sucessfully completed, empty the cartridge and let it air dry overnight.
Now, we need to get the UV ink into that sponge or bag in a way so that the cartridge won't leak too fast (causing a mess) or too slow (causing no printing.
Use an inkjet refill syringe filled with UV ink to refill the cartridge
using the instructions provided with the regular inkjet refill kit as a guide on how to do this.
Cap and seal the cartridge with duct tape or silicone, if necessary.
Insert cartridge into your printer and your ready to print.
In some cases, the manufacturer of the cartridge provided a hole to refill through. In other instances, the manufacturer does not. This would normally require us to drill a small hole ourselves.
In this instance, we don't need to worry about this since we can remove the entire top cover.
But before we go any further, there are a few suggestions which should be observed if you've never cleaned catridges out before:
1. Always work over or in a clean sink! Cleaning out ink from catridges always makes a mess.
2. Always wear gloves when cleaning out the cartridges or handling UV ink. RESPECT THESE CHEMICALS. Even if labeled non-toxic. The regular visible ink is not considered a toxic substance. It is mainly water, with a bit of ethylene glycol, pigment/tint and sometimes up to 3 percent alcohol added. But your UV ink may not be non-toxic. Being safe is definitely better than being sorry.
Now let us get into the more technical aspects of cartridges.
Inkjet Cartridges can be classified by the several most commonly used designs:
1. Sponge-filled or Vacuum-retained
2. Uni-color or Multi-color
3. Reservoir-only or Combination Reservoir/Printhead
Sponge-filled Cartridges
Sponge-filled cartridges are the most common. These cartridges are little more than a plastic box with an internal sponge. refilling these cartridges consists of getting the UV ink to saturate the sponge and in particular, to get ink to the bottom of the sponge where it can then seep out to the printhead.
The most common problems associated with refilling sponge filled cartridges are caused by too rapid filling. If the sponge is filled too quickly, the ink will not chase out all of the air in the sponge. This will result in 'air dams' being formed inside the sponge. The common symptom of this problem is that the cartridge prints for a while and then stops, since the air dam has blocked the ink from flowing toward the printhead.
A related problem is when air bubbles form between the sponge and the printhead. The symptom here is that the cartridge has difficulty printing as soon as it is installed.
For both problems, the key is to get rid of the air. There are several suggested ways:
Inject ink from the bottom of the sponge and slowly fill the cartridge in this manner. The idea is that the air will rise to the top.
Tap the side of the cartridge repeatedly for several minutes. This is done to try and move the air bubbles to the top.
Let the cartridge sit for a night or a weekend. In many cases, the air will remove itself.
Remember, the best cure for this problem is prevention. This is why these instructions advise refilling the cartidge with UV ink very SLOWLY.
Vacuum Retained Cartridges
Vacuum-retained cartridges are a bit more complex in design, but are not much more difficult to refill. These cartridges are most commonly made by Hewlett-Packard.(932c)
Refilling these cartridges always involves putting an air-tight seal somewhere in the process. Depending upon the cartridge, you have to seal it with some sort of hot glue or silicone cement. Hot glue is good, since it seals quickly and is easy to remove if necessary.
The important things to remember about these cartridges are the following:
Always squeeze the cartridge before sealing to set up the vacuum.
The vacuum will stabilize by leaking a few drops of ink. Expect this and plan for it. But a regular trickle of ink means that you didn't get the seal tight.
Some of these cartridges (such as the 51645A) have a filter screen just above the printhead. Make sure that this is thoroughly cleaned if you don't want print problems to develop.
Uni-Color(Single chamber) and Multi-color(multiple chamber) Cartridges
Multi-color cartridges have multiple chambers which each hold a different color of ink. The printer software sprays out the appropriate combination of dots of Magenta, Cyan, Black, and Yellow to creat all of the colors of the rainbow. Here are some of the things to be aware of:
Multi-color cartridges rarely run out of ink in each chamber at the same time.
So you'll probably only fill one color at a time. Remember to tape over the openings to the other chambers while you are filling one color, or you may contaminate the other chamber with the ink you are injecting.
If you don't do this, you'll get some really interesting graphical colors and effects that you do not want.
Some graphics software has setting for 'R/G/B' and 'C/Y/M/K'. If your colors being printed look strange, try changing these settings.
Be careful when filling multi-color cartridges to avoid printhead based contamination.
Here's how it works:
If you are filling the cartridge and a large drop of ink comes out the bottom of the cartridge, some of the ink may be absorbed back up into the cartridge into another color chamber. Then, when you print, your colors will be 'dirty'.
The solution is to keep the cartridge on a paper towel while filling. If you still get the cross-contamination, you may need to flush out that chamber with more ink, or by printing several pages of heavy graphics of that color. Reservoir-Only Cartridges
Reservoir only cartridges only contain an ink reservoir. These cartridge can be refilled many, many times.
Combination Reservoir/Printhead Cartridges
Combination Reservoir/Printhead cartridges contain both an ink reservoir and have a printhead built-in to the cartridge. These cartridges will eventually wear out the printhead through simple erosion, but should give good printing for about 3 refills in most cases.
Common UV refill problems and solutions.
This is a listing of common refilling problems and their cure.
Prints odd colors
Prints green as blue or orange as red.
You are out of yellow ink or the yellow ink isn't flowing. Check your yellow chamber and refill if necessary.
Prints orange as yellow or violet as blue.
You are out of magenta ink or the magenta ink isn't flowing. Check your magenta chamber and refill if necessary. Prints green as yellow or violet as red.
You are out of cyan ink or the cyan ink isn't flowing. Check your cyan chamber and refill if necessary.
Everything is a shade of brown.
You have accidently injected one ink into the wrong chamber or the inks have over-flowed and mixed.
You can either trash the cartridge or simply rehack another one. Then refill your cartridge properly this time.
Colors are dirty.
You have accidently injected one ink into the wrong chamber or the inks have over-flowed and mixed.
You can either trash the cartridge or simply rehack another one. Then refill your cartridge properly this time.
Strange colors are printing.
You have accidently injected one ink into the wrong chamber or the inks have over-flowed and mixed.
You can either trash the cartridge or simply begin printing out a heavy page of graphics repeatedly to flush out the ink. Then refill properly.
It is also possible that your printing software is set up wrong. Certain sophisticated graphics packages allow you to select between R/G/B and C/Y/M/K (or another arrangement of those letters) printing. Change your setting and see how the printing behaves. If there is no improvement, remember to change the setting back to the original setting.
Prints with streaks of some parts of letters printing, some parts not printing. This means that your print head is partially clogged.
Use the printer's cleaning routine. If this doesn't work, try soaking just the printhead in simmering distilled water to which up to 50 percent isoprphyl alcohol has been added. However, only do this on cartridges with disposible printheads such as HP or Lexmark. Don't do this if your print head is a permanent part of your printer like Epsons or most Canons. Stops printing on long horizontal lines, but prints again on next pass.
This indicates that the print head is not getting enough ink. This is common on the first refill in HP 51645A cartridges because of foam generated by the original HP ink. (contamination) This foam forms at the exit filter just before the printhead and is caused because the original HP ink foams if mixed under suction with air -- such as what happens when you refill the cartridge.(HP Photosmart 1000 series)
With other cartridges like the Lexmark ones, this symptom simply means that not enough ink is getting to the printhead. Look for partial blockages of the ink path, including blockages caused by small air bubbles.
Started to print fine, but then stopped after a couple of pages. This problem is almost always caused by air dams in sponge-filled cartridges. Check the suggestions under Types of Cartridges for sponge-filled cartridges. Cartridge Won't Print Anything. This condition is very common with certain cartridges, particularly with reservoir-only cartridges such as provided by Canon and Epson. The symptom is one of the following: Plug in cartridge and it won't print anything. Cartridge prints for a while and then won't print anything. Plug in cartridge and it won't print anything. This often happens with the reservoir-only cartridges. Here are the two most common problems: The ink has not made it to the bottom (exit) of the cartridge, and thus, there is no ink for the printhead to use. The solution is to take the cartridge, turn it upside down and inject some ink into the sponge through the ink exit hole. (if it is large enough to do without modification) There is an air bubble between the bottom of the sponge and the printhead which is blocking ink flow. Be sure that there is a bit of ink in the top of the printhead, and be sure that there is ink slowly dripping from the exit hole of the cartridge. Cartridge prints for a while and then won't print anything. This often means that there is an air blockage which has formed in the middle of the sponge. Check the suggestions under Types of Cartridges for sponge-filled cartridges. It's Leaking It's normal for all cartridges to leak a couple of drops when first filled, and may continue for 5 minutes or so. Remember, if there isn't ink at the exit hole of the cartridge, the printer can't print. So expect a bit of a drip or so.
If your cartridge is one of the HP vacuum-retained cartridges, then continued leaking tells us that the cartridge has an air leak. Air leaks are caused by: Poor sealing: check the sealing that you did. Tiny cracks: visually inspect the cartridge for tiny cracks or leaking points. Try sealing the holes or discard the cartridge. Punctured top center hole or bag: Not much you can do except toss the cartridge.
Now, if your cartridge is a simple sponge-filled cartridge, then it should stop leaking after a few minutes unless it is overfull. Let the cartridge sit overnight where it can make a mess and check it in the morning.
The Canon BJI-201 is a special case. (BJC-600 and 2300 series) This cartridge is half sponge-filled and half vacuum retained. If you get a continuous leak, it is because of poor-sealing or tiny cracks. Remember that the hole through which you filled the top of the cartridge must be sealed air tight with hot glue or you will get a leak.
These issues cover the basics of hacking and refilling inkjet cartridges for use with UV inks.
So hopefully by now you have your teslin ID with Holo and UV if you went to the trouble. The rest is simple, you laminate it, cut off the excess teslin, sand the edges a little, maybe beat it up a little to make it look worn, and it's ready to use.
You could always skip the hologram making step by buying a holo pouch at cryogenictech.com, but watch out for scammers if you go to buy anything off the internet.
Supply sites:
Http://www.holosupplies.com/ Http://theidline.com/ http://www.brainstormidsupply.com/
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2002-09-22, 03:46
