Ok, heres the situation. I have a black lab dalmation mix, about 5 months old whos chaos. He eats EVERYTHING. We already had to rush him to the animal hospital for eating sleeping pills. He always dumps over the trash can and eats book, not just any book, expensive college books. We dont want to get rid of em but he needs to learn. Are there any special ways to train them besides hitting when catching them in the act?

You should of gotten a "Sheltie" Much better behaved.

Labs are always tough to control the first three years. But after that they're the second best thing around. Do some phone book research for dog training. Try getting your black lab in a program where there are many other dogs, it will also improve your dog's social skills. If you don't have the money to spend on that, you can always go to a library and take notes, or just spend 100k+ fixing up your house when the black lab gets through terrorizing it.

One of my relatives is on her fourth generation of black labs. The first three she never took to any training, and they chewed up everything. The recent generation went to training and there was a huge improvment.

Watch animal planet or get a book, it's too involved of a process to go through online. You could probably find a website too I guess. Anyway it will involve lots of time spent with the dog, substitution and reward training, good luck.

Labs and dalmations are very hyper dogs when young. How about not letting the dog in the house. Get a fenced yard and put it back there, those dogs are not house dogs. They need alot of attention, walks and play time. They're not hard to train, but just like any dog, you have to stay on top of it or they lose interest.

Canyonero is right, there's not any way we could cover it online. Larger bookstores usually have several books on dog training and most decent cities will have a few dog trainers available.

You should of done research on the breed of the dog before getting it.

same way with beagles.

i have a big old beautiful german shepard (and i mean I HAVE, i raised her from a pup, not my family). the best secret ive learned over the years: a sleeping dog is a good dog. Take your k9 friend on plenty of long walks (atleast 30 min a day) to wear the flambouant beast down. but it doesnt have to be walks, just plenty of excersize. and dont tell me you dont have time for this, you made the choice to get a dog, you make time, ie: get off the fuckin tube.

I agree with many of the above comments. Especially the one about Shelties. I have a Shetland Sheepdog (think mini-lassie but where the hair is browny ginger on lassie on my dog its black). The problem has always been that he is hyperactive, i tried everything to calm him down- Hour walks everyday, new toys and i even tried him on low energy diet. Nothing worked. Then whilst at the local vet getting my dog vacinated i was told that there are special animal psycologists. It was fairly cheap so i took my dog to one and after the 2 week course he was much better behaved and alot more tranquil. Its annoying because they don't let you see what they do, you have to wait outside whilst they "work their magic".

Also, Sivvy- you are right there. A sleeping dog is a good dog indeed. My dog is only small so two 10-15 minute walks per day and then a long hour or so walk at weekends works fine. This is practical too, with work and all, 10 minutes before work then 10 after and then a long walk in my free time. It also gets me out and exercising so its good all round.

Chunk

edit- comment to sivvy

[This message has been edited by Chunkmiester (edited 11-26-2002).]

yeah chunk, i dont know if the walk helps my dog out as much as it does me. walking for the sake of walking is a dying tradition, its good to see one who is a practicioner of such simple yet helpful practices. i wish you good fortune and humility in wherever you go in life, and your puppy-dog too.

I got a black lab and he was realy hyper when he was younger. I agree that at about 3 or 4 they start to mellow out.

I have a yellow lab who likes to eat books too. Especially, dog training books (can ya taste the irony?). He's 7 months old... He actually hasn't destroyed anything valuable in quite a while now. If you give your dog plenty of chew toys, he should be OK. Just don't let him get bored. Also, our dog did most of his "chewings" during the night. If that is the case with your dog, consider getting a large box type kennel that you can put in the laundry room or some corner in your house and put him in there during the night. We do this with all our little puppies until they grow out of the box. However, they do make really large boxes so you can keep them in there all their live (only while they're sleeping... not actually their entire life). When you do find that your dog has mistaken another valuable item for one of his priced chew toys, tap him on his nose or grab him by the skin on the neck and shake him... make him regret doing it.

HEY MAN! ALL YOU NEED IS A KNIFE AND KASHUSH HELL LEAVE YOU AND EVERY THING ELSE ALONE

try this, Take a old crappy book and coat it in Cayenne pepper powder, the hotter the better. Leave it somewhere the dog will find it and chew on it, when the spice burns his mouth(not literally) he will eventually figure out that eating books hurts him(or something like that), The point is he should stop chewing on things. You can do this with shoes or anything else if you want, You can also coat stuff in Tabasco sauce to. Hope this helps.

Did I mention my dog's name is actually Chewy? Hehe... well, really Chewbacca, but try yelling that when you get really mad!

Good news, you have a dog trainer on board now *raises hand*

any questions just email me schnauzer_luv@hotmail.com
don't feel like going into a lot right here but..

start by teaching him a "leave it" and a "take it" command.

You do this by starting kneeling with him in front of him your hand in his collar. hold a treat in your other hand and keep a good hold on it, so he can't get it. say "leave it" (you can also use the commands "mine, yours") and as soon as he hesitates for even the slightest second say with enthusiasm "good leave it, "take it" and give it to him. *NOTE- THE FOOD MUST ALWAYS COME FROM YOUR HAND! NOT THE FLOOR OR ANYTHING.

Keep doing this until he's looking away, and even moving back a bit. If he sits or something else great!

after this a bit, you stay kneeling and then drop the food on the ground *NOTE- HE CANNOT GET THIS, MAKE SURE IT'S FAR ENOUGH AWAY. Wait till he hesitates, etc, like for holding it. always pick the food up from the ground and give it from your hand!

Keep this up for a week, then email me for progression.

Just a bit more to add, I'm not just talking out of my ass. I work as a dog trainer with the Calgary Superdogs, if you've ever seen a superdog show, they travel world wide, so...thats us

And NEVER EVER EVER USE A CHOKE OR CORRECTION COLLAR!!

quote:

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Originally posted by Chunkmiester:
Its annoying because they don't let you see what they do, you have to wait outside whilst they "work their magic".

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I would be very skepticle of this. If they are true professionals then there would be no reason why you can't be present! There are dog behaviourists you can go to. But for a high energy dog that wont do much.

Dogs wont completely tire with just physical activity, they need to be mentally stimulated as well. This can tire them out more then the previous. A few short training sessions throught the day, 5-15 mins is all it takes. After each training session play with your dog for equal amount of time. Not only does this reinforce that training is a good thing (Hey, I do what my owner wants and get treats that way, PLUS I get to play afterwards! OH BOY!!) They will become more attentive for training sessions.

Also you can teach a "settle" command. Do this by first teaching a good "down" (lie down, keep it to one word. it's a lot easier to say "down" in a jam, then it is to say "lie down". Same goes with sit!. Also, if you have a dog that jumps up. Use the command "off" instead of down, otherwise you'll be using one command for multiple behaviours!)..anyway..

When your dog is in a down (you can do this while watching tv or something) just pet him. keep it relaxing. If he keeps wanting to get up, then have his dinner rations there, and reward him every few seconds for staying down. Slowly work on getting him on his side. This is important for the settle. As soon as he starts going on his side more reliably, you can add the command "settle", or "relax", anything you want to use.

When this is reliable, you can use it whenever he's getting too pumped.

Also with a completly hiperactive dog, and nothing works, get his glands and thyroid checked. It could be a bigger problem!

quote:

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Originally posted by rlpinca:
Labs and dalmations are very hyper dogs when young. How about not letting the dog in the house. Get a fenced yard and put it back there, those dogs are not house dogs. They need alot of attention, walks and play time. They're not hard to train, but just like any dog, you have to stay on top of it or they lose interest.

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Bullshit!

If you want a dog then whats the point of locking him away?
This often causes far worse problems then the ones you start with!
My rescue German Shepard was victim as a yard dog, and this dog had the worse separation anxiety I have ever seen! Simply because she was kept in a yard for her first few months! Thats when I got her and after I worked with her, a lot, she is a calm, well behaved, little girl, and she'll only be turning 2 in a couple weeks!

quote:

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Originally posted by MyUsername:
I have a yellow lab who likes to eat books too. Especially, dog training books (can ya taste the irony?). He's 7 months old... He actually hasn't destroyed anything valuable in quite a while now. If you give your dog plenty of chew toys, he should be OK. Just don't let him get bored. Also, our dog did most of his "chewings" during the night. If that is the case with your dog, consider getting a large box type kennel that you can put in the laundry room or some corner in your house and put him in there during the night. We do this with all our little puppies until they grow out of the box. However, they do make really large boxes so you can keep them in there all their live (only while they're sleeping... not actually their entire life). When you do find that your dog has mistaken another valuable item for one of his priced chew toys, tap him on his nose or grab him by the skin on the neck and shake him... make him regret doing it.

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RIGHT, I almost forgot the most important

KENNEL TRAIN YOUR DOG!!!

sorry for replying so many times. I'm not trying to spam, I just get lost in thought!

[This message has been edited by chiqutia (edited 12-08-2002).]

Got a little carried now did you Chiquita?

It's ok I still love you.

I would be interested in any information about how accurate drug detection dogs are. I am not looking for guesses or rumours, but hard facts about what the dogs can detect, and how sensitive they are, and their capabilities beyond marijuana, cocaine, heroin, meth etc. Anyone know for a fact if LSD is detectable, or if marijuana that is vaccum packed, and completely cleaned of residual odor from the exterior is truly undetectable.

quote:

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Originally posted by chiqutia:

And NEVER EVER EVER USE A CHOKE OR CORRECTION COLLAR!!

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we use them,they're a lot more humane than everybody thinks because the dog doesn't get choked or has it's breathing restricted as muych as everybody thinks, they work so that the dog won't be able to get out of the lead, not to actually choke it.

one thing about tapping a dog on the nose, never hit or "tap" your dog using your bare hands or your "person", use a rolled up magazine so that way they don't get scared of your hands or your "person".

I have taught my dog some unusual commands.
"Back your ass up"
"Get the kitty"
"Park it"
"Chill" or "Chill out"
"Cork it"
"What do you want?" The answer is usualy indicated in a way that is evident, but impossible to explain.
And of course the ever popular "Shut the hell up"

quote:

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Originally posted by bribble13:
we use them,they're a lot more humane than everybody thinks because the dog doesn't get choked or has it's breathing restricted as muych as everybody thinks, they work so that the dog won't be able to get out of the lead, not to actually choke it.

one thing about tapping a dog on the nose, never hit or "tap" your dog using your bare hands or your "person", use a rolled up magazine so that way they don't get scared of your hands or your "person".

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If you don't want your dog getting out of it then why use a choke? Whats wrong with a martingale, or a harness? Does it have to have a metal chain around it's neck that could get caught on something and strangle it to death?

Also, why would you need to hit your dog? Do you want a scared dog? A robot? or a pet? Whats wrong with positive reinforcement??

But you sound like you know all, so please continue to teach us!! -_-