I was thinking about what can realistically be done to "tune" a 13b rotary engine.

Because of the terribly simple design, all I can think of is some serious boost and some better injectors. A nice exhaust and... well that's all I can think of.

I suppose you could upgrade to a 20b, but I'm solely concerned about the 13b.

Any thoughts?

http://i43.tinypic.com/hrey51.jpg

http://i43.tinypic.com/hrey51.jpg

Boost goes in, seals come out. That's what Zoroastrianism is all about.

To be safe, if I were building a bi-turbo 13b, I'd leave a couple of seals here and there in the water jacket and around the rotors just laying around, helps boost compression, y'know?

Dont go with tons of boost on these things. Ive got my seven set to 10psi and its staying there. Youre gonna see alot of power from port work and opening up the exhaust and intake. Get the apexi power FC and youll be able to fine tune the car. I would also grab some 1600cc injectors for your primaries and secondaries. You should be making pretty good power then without sacrificing what reliability your car may have.

If I were you, Id just buy a new mazda crate engine. Theyre not horribly expensive assuming were talking about the FD. If you can afford the car, you better be able to afford a new engine. Get rid of the sequential turbo system and most of the emissions bullshit. You shouldnt need it.

Large intercooler, high ron race fuel, bigger turbo, lots of boost, free flowing exhaust, Bridge porting on the exhuast, larger intake piping, VERY large injectors, a good aftermarket ecu.

Not much else is needed, just make sure you are keeping engine bay temps down with good airflow, also make sure your radiator/oil/transmission coolers of good airflow to keep the motor from popping.

Coolest. Rotary. Evah.

http://img126.imageshack.us/img126/5654/norton1280x960vu4.jpg

http://www.motorcyclespecs.co.za/Gallery%20C/Norton%20NRV%20588%20%201.jpg

http://images.sportrider.com/features/146_0803_05_z+norton_NRV588+variable_intake_system .jpg

i can deal with that ^^

All the snide comments on the rotary accepting boost disregard the fact that you can still have a 300+hp daily without needing seals every 5k miles... fuck, projecting on a 270-80hp stock setup, you can see 80-100+k without a rebuild (Get real though, if you thrash on it as on anything.... it'll be much sooner).

Youre gonna wanna do some work to your cooling system too. A new air separator tank and a pretty nice radiator should do it.

http://i43.tinypic.com/hrey51.jpg

Hehehehe.

^Ever driven a sick rotary? No? Well giggle away then, sucka!

My friend with an RX-7 said if you baby the engine regardless of whether it's boosted or not your seals will go sooner. I'm curious about whether or not using synthetic oil will increase the lifespan of the rotary engine, as the oil will still be able to keep the seals lubed under high stress associated with more boost and heat. Not only that, I seem to recall that synthetic likes to spread more evenly when it gets extremely hot, so I would suspect it would impregnate more effectively in the porous cast iron that the seals are usually made of.

http://img360.imageshack.us/img360/4996/dscn3235cu4.jpg

http://img360.imageshack.us/img360/4996/dscn3235cu4.jpg

http://thekneeslider.com/images/mazdarotarymotorcycle.jpg

Get outta heeerre!
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