I was just wondering if anyone here has any experience in extracting dmt. Not ayausca, but actual pure DMT. I'm definitely considering this (http://www.erowid.org/plants/mimosa/mimosa_chemistry1.shtml) extraction, as it looks like the most intuitive. Normally I would just balls out and follow the steps, but since naphtha, lye, and ammonia are involved in the process, I want to be double sure that it's legit.
So if anyone has any experience in extracting dmt, or would like to point me to a better recipe/one that they've used, I will be fucking thrilled.

http://www.dmt-nexus.com/Files/Books/General/Vovin's%20Unabridged%20Extraction%20guide.pdf

That'd be the best one.

I'd at least suggest doing a full acid/base extraction with vinegar and then a straight-to-base on the same bark.

If its mimosa, you can generally forget acidifying and head straight to a basic extraction. Just because MHRB has very little fats in it, especially if its been dried nicely and is powdered.

Make sure your naphtha is of high quality, test a sample to make sure the damn stuff evaporates to absolutely nothing, and then ALWAYS freeze precipitate.

Recrystallise, and then ice cold ammonia washes if its really not cleaning up. Ice cold for least possible solubility

Three NP extractions is generally the golden rules for getting 90% of the extractable alkaloids out.

Don't soak the root bark in water and then add solid NaOH, add the basic solution to the root bark, this is just becuase solid NaOH has a habit of raping/polymerising organics.

If you're having trouble precipitating the freebase, evaporate on a gentle, flameless heat, to half its starting volume, then place in the freezer for up to two or three days.

Don't pre wet the filter paper when filtering out crystals, you get a magical example of polar/non polar interactions, or lack thereof, and your filter paper is suddenly impermeable.

Invest in some pH strips, and the basified solution should smell kinda... fishy / burning tyre.

Its really easy, but those are all the possible areas where you could go wrong that I could think of. Its better to spend a bit more on acquiring higher quality chemicals than spend your time smoking heavy metal residue and long chain alkane grease.

all i want to add is, depending on your bark you might find it hard to get nice white crystals even with freeze precip. swiy should redissolve these in about 20mL of near-boiling heptane, or 30mL of hot naptha. draw it out with a pipette and transfer it to a petri dish for evap. this process dissolves the DMT and leaves the contaminants behind in the form of dark blobs on the bottom, so make sure swiy doesn't suck any of those up. Don't discard the crap though because a lot of it is just oxidized dmt and can be converted back with a little bit of zinc in an acidic solution


with this method SWIY will get nice popcorn crystals that remain dry and stable much longer than those of freeze precip

Thanks a lot guys, this is exactly what I was looking for. It looks like the recipe I posted doesn't even require ph strips, but I guess it couldn't hurt to invest in some?
Thanks again

SWIM never monitors pH and it all works fine. you just gotta know what signs to look for. after you do it once with pH strips you'll have an idea of what quantities to add

pretty much if you're doing STB you add fucktons of lye, like at a ratio of 1:1 lye/mimosa. 1/2lb of mimosa = about a cup of lye. for acid/base: add lye while stirring until it just turns ink black, then add a couple more tbs of lye to ensure its freebased

the only time SWIM takes pH is when doing washes and other purification steps