Too much = Brake disc warp. Too little: more badness.

My auto teacher told me 100 ft/lbs. Mechanic told me around 65. I've heard anywhere from 65-80 is good.

I'm changing both sisters car tomorrow. One is a Protege. The other is a 06 Civic.

Thanks.

it depends on the diameter and grade of the bolt/stud.

http://www.zerofast.com/torque.htm

http://www.gglotus.org/ggtech/wheel-stud/lugtorque.htm

I'm not sure if lug bolts/studs are grade 5 or grade 8.

Whatever the car manual says.

call a dealership for the honda, as for the service department. they know. or check on a honda forum, google it perhaps?

as for the protege, same with the honda if its newish, might have to check a repair manual.

As tight as it fucking goes.

So the brakes are held on solidly, amirite?

Until it they feel like they're on tight; i.e. feel like they're not going to do up much further without putting some forced into it. It's all you need, don't even need to put your back into it.

I have never used a proper torque wrench to do lugnuts. I just tighten them by hand with a breaker bar or a 4 way lug wrench. You want them pretty damn tight but dont go crazy to the point of snapping off studs. I had a dipshit mechanic once who put the lugs back on with an pneumatic impact gun on its highest setting and it did not warp or damage anything it just made it a royal bitch to loosen as i needed a 4ft pipe on the breaker bar to get them off.

Whatever you do to tighten them remember that if you get a flat on the side of the road your stuck using the little crappy lug wrench that comes with the car. If you tighten them with a big breaker bar or similar tool you may not be able to get enough leverage with that little wrench in the trunk to break them loose.

lug nuts? what are those?

all i use are bolts.

http://www.audi-collection.com/prod_images/8P0071455.jpg

heres what my locking ones look like.

Several posters above appear to be uninformed and thus have no knowledge about how bolts and nuts work.
Yes, bolts. nuts, screws are ancient technology.
Did you know proper torque is based on actually stretching the bolt... doh.
Metallurgy is fairly ancient.
Many of you may need to learn things that engineers have understood for 1000 years plus.
Proper torque is measureable, but I guess at the high end, it's rather forgiving.
Most of you are getting by via the luck of the thick lug metal's forgiveness.
You guys make me vomit.
blaahhhh.
ok , now I feel better.
sorry 'bout that ranting above.

Fucking owned. I'm kinda surprised a company with technological foresight is still using bolts.

Fucking owned. I'm kinda surprised a company with technological foresight is still using bolts.

makes it a shit load easier to add spacers in, just get longer bolts. easy.

which is really important with stock wheels that are at et 43, and have a big-ass caliper to clear.

hell these bb5 lm reps dont fit without a 17.5 mm spacer in the front, 20 mm in the rear.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3068/2731147776_919654ace4_o.jpg

^that car has everything mine wants (i'm the same color):
coil-overs (tein ss)
19"x8.5" bb5 lm (bbs replicas, much much cheaper, but decent quality)
ti-package grill
s4 mirror caps

except mine has tint, like a 40%, and a better stereo system, but f'in cali tint laws made me take the front window tints off.

more of the same car:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v700/erin777/IMG_3087a.jpg
these are the stock brakes, same as my car, only like a 320 mm front rotor 288 mm rear:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v700/erin777/IMG_3103a.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v700/erin777/IMG_3107a.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v700/erin777/IMG_3132a.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v700/erin777/IMG_3146a.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v700/erin777/IMG_3156a.jpg

its amazing what a simple drop + wheels + spacers will do to this car.

heres a stock 2.0t avant. got the same stockers on mine
http://webpages.charter.net/a4_avant/Audi%20Avant%201.0.jpg
http://webpages.charter.net/a4_avant/Audi%20Avant%201.4.jpg

http://www.savvyautosales.com/geo/user_images/7243550.jpg
2.0t fsi that powers it:
http://www.savvyautosales.com/geo/user_images/6565608.jpg


meh, once the weather is decent, and i'm sufficiently bored, i'm going to wash and wax my car, it needs it. black looks really good all polished up.

heres a subie legacy gt i did the other day (mom's ride):

http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/112670/image_00081.jpg

makes it a shit load easier to add spacers in, just get longer bolts. easy.

Never seen a normal wheel spacer before? I don't see how spacers for bolt wheels could be any easier than normal spacers, but alright. Bolts also make changing your rims over a bitch.

California rules. That thing with the tinting is awesome. Not. It looks like shit when a car has different percentages all around. Doesn't do too much to the sun though.

Never seen a normal wheel spacer before? I don't see how spacers for bolt wheels could be any easier than normal spacers, but alright. Bolts also make changing your rims over a bitch.

California rules. That thing with the tinting is awesome. Not. It looks like shit when a car has different percentages all around. Doesn't do too much to the sun though.

yeah i was really really pissed when i got ticketed with ~40% all around (except windshield, it was only down to the as-1 line, in a gradient), it was either $10 to get rid of it and the ticket, or like $150 for the ticket, and the chance to get pulled over again.

moms used to have 35% on the front passenger windows, she got pulled over on the freeway for tint alone by a CHiP. bastards.

anyways, hubcentric spacers just go on the hub, between the wheel and the tire, and are as easy as cake to put on, takes about the same time as changing a tire. after the first on the side of the road tire change, its cake, i dont see why people bitch about it, there's a hub lip, and even a tool (that i never use) to line up the bolt holes. the hub itself can support the weight of the wheel just sitting on it, and rotated to have the holes match up. its really not that hard folks, and has a lot more room for error.

http://www.madaudidesign.com/site/images/s5_hr.jpg

i'd like to see a conventional lug nut system easily take a 30 mm spacer, as easy as a hub system (longer bolts is all thats needed, and its as easy as pie to put on)

http://www.justjap.com/parts/new/misc/30mmspacers5stud.jpg

What are you talking about motherlicker? Neither kind of spacer is better because they're the same shit man. Your version is just inverted. Doesn't make it any better.

with over a 10 mm or so spacer on a lug nut system you have to knock the studs out. not quite as easy as putting the spacer on the hub, and using longer bolts. for 5-30 mm spacers for bolts its all the same, put spacer on hub, and use a longer bolt.

with lug-nuts, you have to take the whole disk off and knock the studs out if you want to put a big enough spacer on. not much easier if you ask me.

its easier to get more threads on a system that uses bolts, more secure IMO. and much easier to get back to stock.


get what i'm sayin'?


not necessarily the best system, as each has their own virtues, but one can argue having your motor mid mounted is superior vs rear a la porsche 911, but i dont see the 911 moving mid-engined anytime soon. same basic concept.

edit:
well its 3 am here, time for sleep. going out to the san fran auto show tomorrow. went to the silicon valley one in san jose last year, got to see the veyron in the flesh in red on black, amongst other amazing cars.

I always use my clicker torque wrench set to 100ft.lbs. on aluminum wheels, sometimes 110 on steelies.

with over a 10 mm or so spacer on a lug nut system you have to knock the studs out. not quite as easy as putting the spacer on the hub, and using longer bolts. for 5-30 mm spacers for bolts its all the same, put spacer on hub, and use a longer bolt.

with lug-nuts, you have to take the whole disk off and knock the studs out if you want to put a big enough spacer on. not much easier if you ask me.

its easier to get more threads on a system that uses bolts, more secure IMO. and much easier to get back to stock.

not necessarily the best system, as each has their own virtues, but one can argue having your motor mid mounted is superior vs rear a la porsche 911, but i dont see the 911 moving mid-engined anytime soon. same basic concept.

get what i'm sayin'?


I guess.



edit:
well its 3 am here, time for sleep. going out to the san fran auto show tomorrow. went to the silicon valley one in san jose last year, got to see the veyron in the flesh in red on black, amongst other amazing cars.

Don't come back without at least a million photos.

It looks like shit when a car has different percentages all around

Yep. I always see boy racers with 10% or nothing on their fronts and limo black on their rears... if the car is black it makes it look like a bloody panel van.

All of the above are wrong.

Each make/sometimes model is different, there's a chart that will tell you what each is supposed to be:
http://home.comcast.net/~miesk5/Image41.gif

There's a crappy one, its the first that came up on google images and if that bothers you get a clear one yourself.

Tool color refers to the torque stick color, you're not supposed to use sockets with an air gun. You can use them if you have a torque wrench though, so unless you're using air tools disregard it.