On my scope there is 2 dials, 1 is left and right and the other is up and down. Do I put the up and down knob on the side or on the top? I am getting mixed answers in yahoo and no body seems to know what the fuck they are talking about.

Also when you move the dial, you are moving the cross hair in the direction of the shot, correct? Like if my shot is too high then I need to move the cross hair up to match the direction of the bullets trajectory, right?

Thanks :D

Knob goes on left, so it isnt knocked by hand when operating the bolt. To zero a rifle you need to pick a point (usually bullseye) and aim at it. Fire 5 rounds as best you can. Go look at the target and see where the group is. Say it is off to the right, you need to move your scope to the left, so when you aim at the same spot, the group will move left, towards the centre. Fire a 5 round group each time you make an adjustment. Dont try to zero in high winds.

the up and down goes on top
you start with the shot group and move it to the scope
shoot 3 shots at 100 yards, measure the distance between the group and the bull, if you have a 1/4 MOA scope you need 4 click an inch, 8 for a 1/8 MOA

Yes, your elevation (up and down) knob will go on top, your windage (left and right) will go to the right, however, there are backwards scopes that'll have windage on the left, but elevation will still be on top. If there's three knobs on the turret housing (the square box in the middle of the scope) it might either be a side focus, or a rheostat for an illuminated reticle. In this case, it'll go on the left side, but sometimes, focus is at the rear in the ocular housing or the rheostat is on top of the ocular itself. Consult your manual.

One little trick I learned for perfect alignment of optics to rifle (you have to have a 1 piece base in order for this to work) is to place the scope loosely in the rings, with the screws tightened somewhat, then insert a stack of playing cards progressively between the base and the turret housing, to act as a shim and make the reticle perfectly in line with the receiver.

As far as trajectory compensation goes, I use ballistic software like exbal to calculate specific trajectory for a load, then confirm at a range, that format that data so that it fits on a small circular piece of paper that I can glue to the inside of a flip up scope cap. That way, whenever I need data, all I have to do is flip up my cap.

With a centerfire rifle in most .30 calibers, I'd suggest going for a 300 yard zero. Build your data from there and shoot the same load every time. Keep a log of rounds you shoot through your rifle, and where the impacts are. Take down ambient ENVIRO and METERO data, and any other factors that might affect shooting (hungover, coffee jitters, long time without nicotene, etc). HAVE A GOOD SCIENTIFIC CALCULATOR!! Practice milling common objects, and get good with milling fast. You can practice on www.mil-dot.com (http://www.mil-dot.com). Marine Corps standards are to be accurate to within a 1/10th of a mil.

It's one of those procedural things.

It's only an air pellet rifle rated at 1000fps.
Should I zero at 200 yards or do you think 100 is good enough?

if I shot a squirrel at 200 yards I would have to aim down an inch right?

You'll never push an air rifle that far, Zero it at 15 or 30 yards. If you zero it at say 100y it's going to be hitting over a foot high at closer ranges and you will shoot over the top of everything (not to mention that even at 100y a slight breeze will send your pellet way off target).

Zeros i use for rifles are....
Air Rifles - 15 yards
.22LR - 50 yards (Aim for the head out to 60-ish yards any you'll hit it, hold over for further out
.22 centerfires (.223) - 100 yards (Aim where you want to hit out to 150-ish and you'll be right)
6mm, .30cal ect - 200y (Any further and you're likely to shoot over the top of smaller targets at closer range)

You nearly always have time to adjust your scope when a long shot presents itself however you rarly ever get time to adjust your sights for closer stuff. Some people think it's hardcore to leave their rifles zeroed at 600 yards or w/e but thats just plain stupid.

Basically work out what range you take the majority of shots at and zero it around that range. then shoot it at closer ranges so you know how high it's going to shoot.

edit, if you know anyone that has killed anything with an air rifle at 200 yards please give me their address so i can send them my left nut :D .