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Better Living Through Chemistry Discussions of any and all sorts of mind-warping chemicals, pills, booze, mind machines, trippy stuff, current street prices, importing pharmaceuticals, smart drugs, nutrients, herbs, and altered states. Please try to keep your conversations "theoretical" in nature, since this is an open conference.

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 #1 
Old 2008-08-03, 16:42
I LIKE LOLS I LIKE LOLS is offline
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Default Cleaning up Concerta

Here's my situation, maybe you could help me out. I have plenty of extra Concerta pills that I would like to abuse, but they're gakked to hell. I've snorted concerta but, as far as my nose is concerned, I might as well have snorted Elmer's glue. This viscosity gets in the way of shooting it as well. I've cooked up concerta guts using the technique I use for IV'ing regular MPH (I have no problems getting a clean shot from generic MPH tabs), but what remains is an ungodly goo on the spoon that doesn't belong in one's bloodstream.

From McNiel's prescribing information:
Active Ingredient: methylphenidate HCl
Inactive Ingredients: butylated hydroxytoluene, carnuba wax, cellulose acetate, hypromellose, lactose, phosphoric acid, poloxamer, polyethylene glycol, polyethylene oxides, povidone, propylene glycol, sodium chloride, stearic acid, succinic acid, synthetic iron oxides, titanium dioxide, and triacetin.


I think the ingredient responsible is hypromellose (hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydroxypropyl_methyl_cellulose)). How can I properly deal with this nasty, nasty starch? Would caramelizing be the way to do it? Any advice appreciated.
 #2 
Old 2008-08-03, 17:22
spinal_cord spinal_cord is offline
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Default Re: Cleaning up Concerta

burn it off
 #3 
Old 2008-08-03, 18:15
jamaica0535 jamaica0535 is offline
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Default Re: Cleaning up Concerta

well it hardly dissolves in anhydrous ethanol, ether, or acetone...

maybe this will help..

http://www.ronasgroup.com/hydroxypropyl-methyl-cellulose.asp
 #4 
Old 2008-08-03, 19:58
spl1ff spl1ff is offline
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Default Re: Cleaning up Concerta

damn. povidone, cellulose bs, wow they are gakked to hell.

i'd say try this:




Straight to Bee III – The Pickled P
By VideoEditor 06/02/05

VE here with a radically different approach to pill extraction. Straight to Bee III challenges the current extraction thinking while adding some important features such as no evaporating large amounts of smelly liquids, solvent fumes are minimized and there is no HCL gassing required. All reagents are over the counter and easily acquired.

Note:
Due to the ever changing formulations in pills today there is no one cure fits all. Tests have shown this to work with a wide variety of pills but there is no sure thing. Please run a test batch before committing a large amount of your investment.

Equipment
One hot plate or oil bath
Two Pyrex boiling flasks at least 100ml per box used
One Pyrex container at least 50ml per box used
One separation funnel at least 100ml per box used (Or other method to siphon off liquid)
Two 1000ml containers with lids
One 1000ml graduated cylinder (Or other liquid measuring device in ml's)
One 5ml medicine dropper
One large funnel with Charmin filter
Several coffee filters
Coffee grinder
Hot pads or kitchen mitts
Wooden stirring spoon
Small digital scale
Safety goggles

Note:
Credit for developing the Charmin plug filter is given to the Geezmiester. See the thread https://www.wetdreams.ws/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=1347
for more information.

Reagents
Citric Acid - Also known as Sour Salt (Used in Kosher foods, home brewing and candy making)
Distilled H2O
Kosher Salt - Sodium Chloride (Non iodide)
Sodium Carbonate – Also known as Washing Soda
Sodium Hydroxide – Also known as lye
Hexane - Also known as N-Hexanes or Mixed Hexanes (Found in electronic parts cleaner and some brake cleaners)
White Vinegar - Grocery store variety
VM&P Naphtha - Used as a paint thinner

Note:
Do not substitute for VM&P Naphtha. Shellite, white gas, petroleum ether and lighter fluid are NOT VM&P naphtha. VM&P Naphtha is a combination of aliphatics, xylenes and ethyl benzene and has an unmistakable smell of naphtha (moth balls). Some Oz Bees have reported the same success with Shellite but since I cannot verify this, I cannot guarantee it will work.

Possible Optional Reagents
Anhydrous acetone
Anhydrous magnesium sulfate or sodium carbonate

How does it work?

Credit should be given to Dwarfer for his long investment in researching polyampholytes and uncovering a method to render them ineffective.

Using white vinegar creates acetate ions that will confuse the hell out of the poly ampholytic polymeric amendments which constitute the principle component of most modern pill formulas. At either very high or very low pH, polyampholytes act like polyelectrolytes. By changing the PH slowly in a hot and ironically crowded environment, The poly-electrolytes assume a different electrical configuration.

Added salt ions can screen the repulsion between excess charges. With no added salt, the polyampholyte chain is stretched on its largest length scale by the repulsion between excess charges. As salt is added the length decreases and the repulsion between excess charges begins to be screened. This screening of charge repulsion decreases the chain size and eventually decreases down to the internal polyampholyte length due to the charged monomers. In simpler terms the polyampholytes can no longer hold onto the pseudo.

Citric Acid is added to drop the PH to 1.5 In addition Citric acid also gets its acidity because of carboxyl groups that are attached. This adds more confusion to the mix.

Preparation

Non-chlorinated brake cleaner is commonly a mixture of hexane and methanol or isopropyl alcohol. The hexane can bee separated by washing once with water, separating and then drying the extracted hexane over freshly dried sodium carbonate or magnesium sulfate.

Electronic parts cleaner is usually pure hexane and may bee used as is. If it is mixed with alcohol follow the same procedure as brake cleaner.

First we need to make our extraction brine The basic formula is:
100ml of white vinegar
35 grams of kosher salt
15 grams of citric acid

So to make about a liter we will place in one of the 1000ml containers with a lid the following:
800ml of white vinegar
280 grams of kosher salt
120 grams of citric acid

Shake shake shake for about 3 to 4 minutes. It will almost all dissolve but not quite. This is ok. We want it to be saturated at room temperature.

Note:
The brine is really corrosive, so avoid the use of metallic objects.

Next we need to make our basing solution. You'll need about 20ml per box used. This is made by filling a container half the way with crushed ice then adding an equal amount of sodium hydroxide. Stir until dissolved. Place in the refrigerator to cool.

Note:
If your pills contain Tripolidine Hydrochloride it is recommended you do a prewash in ice-cold anhydrous acetone, filter and dry.

Method

Powder the pills in a coffee grinder and place the powder into a clean boiling flask.

For every box of pills used add 50ml of the extraction brine to the pill mass and placed the flask on a hot plate. (An oil bath is preferred) Bring the mixture to a boil. Let it boil for at least 10 minutes.

Note:
This calculation was based on a box of pills used = 48 x 60. If you are doing 120's or 240's you may need to increase this to 75ml to 100ml per box to compensate for the additional filler.

Filter the mixture through a Charmin plug in the bottom of a large funnel into the other boiling flask. All the collected liquid should bee crystal clear.

Slowly add powdered sodium carbonate to the collected liquid in small portions. CO2 will be evolved so take your time so the liquid doesn't end up on the floor. Stop when the PH is 7 or CO2 is no longer produced.

Place the flask with the neutralized filtered liquid back onto the hotplate. Add approximately 1/2 of its volume of VM&P Naphtha. Heat until the brine layer just starts to boil (actually a simmer) then slowly start to add the basing solution a few mls at a time using the medicine dropper. You want to do this so the PH change is gradual. You will see the point where the freebase starts to be liberated. Continue to add basing solution. Stop when adding basing solution causes no more change in color or sediment. If you want to be sure the PH of the brine layer at the stopping point should be 11 or 12. Let this simmer for about 5 minutes.

WARNING:
Boiling a bi-layered liquid is dangerous. When one of the layers is flammable extreme caution must bee taken. It is not necessary to achieve a full boil. A good simmer approximately 90-95 degrees C will suffice. DO NOT underestimate the flammability of hot VM&P naphtha. An oil bath is strongly recommended. DO NOT add more than a few mls at a time of the basing solution. Disregarding this instruction may cause the brine layer to superheat and boil over. ALWAYS wear safety goggles and work in a well ventilated area. NEVER use anything other than Pyrex.

Separate or siphon off the naphtha layer into your third Pyrex container. Cover and placed the container in a freezer for about an hour and a half.

Take the naphtha out of the freezer and pour off the naphtha leaving as much of the freebase crystals behind as possible. Capture the lose crystals in a coffee filter and return them to the container. Then wash the freebase crystals in ICE COLD distilled water. Drain the water and freebase crystals into a clean coffee filter. Then pour a liberal amount of hexane through the recovered product. This will wash the water off and help dry the crystals very quickly.

This will probably bee the last of the STB write-ups as prohibition seems to bee the next phase in trying to control the diversion of pseudo based products. Please bee safe. If you're out of control please get help. Don't let law enforcement make an example out of you.

-VE out


Hi all VE here. Hey p2e3r4f5e6c7t8 ltns dude. Thank you hAzzBEEn for preserving the original document formating in the copy.

There are two important changes in the method based on feedback SWIVE has recieved so far.
Increase the amout of brine used to 100ml per box used and change the amount of naptha from 1/3 to 1/2.

After neutralizing the filtered brine with sodium carbonate, finish basing using an excess of NaOH BEFORE the brine nears it's boiling point which will bee higher than 100c due to the salt saturation. Make sure the brine and the naptha reach a temperature of 100c and simmer for at least 10-15 minutes beefore seperating.

its intended for pseudo pills but from reading the inactives you posted, it sounds similar enough. my only concern is if a methylphenidate molecule behaves the same way a pseudo one does. if not, this extraction won't work.
 #5 
Old 2008-08-03, 20:30
sushi sushi is offline
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Default Re: Cleaning up Concerta

Try [on a small number of pills first] crushing them as finely as possible, placing on a spoon/metal tea light thing/whatever, adding just enough methanol to cover the powder, mix around a little, draw resulting solution into a syringe using a cotton or micron needle filter [as if you where going to inject it, it shouldn't gel in the methanol], remove micron filter/squirt the liquid out onto a pan to dry completely.

The methanol should dissolve Methylphenidate HCl without touching the Hydroxypropyl Methyl Cellulose or waxes, you'll still be pulling some of the other stuff but that should help reduce the total volume of powder without the need for a bunch of solvents/time/lengthy procedures [just make sure the methanol has completely evaporated before you go to use it].
 #6 
Old 2008-08-04, 06:03
I LIKE LOLS I LIKE LOLS is offline
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Default Re: Cleaning up Concerta

damn. povidone, cellulose bs, wow they are gakked to hell.

i'd say try this:



its intended for pseudo pills but from reading the inactives you posted, it sounds similar enough. my only concern is if a methylphenidate molecule behaves the same way a pseudo one does. if not, this extraction won't work.

This tek seems feasible. I'll have to try this when I get back in town and have my script refilled. thanks man!
 #7 
Old 2008-08-04, 06:12
jamaica0535 jamaica0535 is offline
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Default Re: Cleaning up Concerta

Quote:
Originally Posted by sushi
Try [on a small number of pills first] crushing them as finely as possible, placing on a spoon/metal tea light thing/whatever, adding just enough methanol to cover the powder, mix around a little, draw resulting solution into a syringe using a cotton or micron needle filter [as if you where going to inject it, it shouldn't gel in the methanol], remove micron filter/squirt the liquid out onto a pan to dry completely.

The methanol should dissolve Methylphenidate HCl without touching the Hydroxypropyl Methyl Cellulose or waxes, you'll still be pulling some of the other stuff but that should help reduce the total volume of powder without the need for a bunch of solvents/time/lengthy procedures [just make sure the methanol has completely evaporated before you go to use it].


uh, i may be wrong but i would think Methylphenidate HCl (besides i think its the a different salt) would be polar... methanol is non polar...
 
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