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Backyard Ballistics This forum is dedicated to the safe teaching and responsible handling of high and low explosives. You will not find any information on how to make "bombs" or any such device(s) . Backyard ballistics will teach you the science and the art of pyrotechnics and how to manufacture and use explosives/pyrotechnics safely and responsibly. Backyard ballistics is also a haven for rocketry and pneumatic cannons. All information contained within this forum is for educational purposes ONLY. Totse does not accept responsiblity for any incident involving the use of the information contained within this forum.

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  #1   Add DiamondX to your ignore list  
Old 2007-04-19, 03:41
DiamondX DiamondX is offline
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Default Is this safe/accurate?

I downloaded a big zip of pyro/HE/LE texts and PDFs a while ago. One is called "A-Files," and I had some questions about its contents. In some ways, it looks good. It has a safety section, shows how dangerous each thing is to make, store, and detonate, but it also has things like pipe bombs, pen grenades, etc.

Anyway, I was looking at the BP section, and it said there is 2 ways to make it, "precipitation" or milling. For the milling method, it says to put all the ingredients into the mill and just turn it on to make green powder, then mix it with water and let it dry to make BP.

Is it safe to make green powder this way? Im not sure how shock sensitive BP is, or how likely/unlikely the mill is to generate sparks, but I would rather ask someone who knew, like you guys. Here is the section Im talking about:

Quote:
Originally Posted by A-Files
Black Powder (Milling Method)

Though it requires more specialized equipment than the precipitation method, the milling method
generally produces much higher quality and faster burning black powder. You can find more information on
ball mills and presses elsewhere in the A Files.

Materials:
• Potassium nitrate. (KNO3) Also called saltpeter. You can buy it from http://www.pyrotek.org .
• Sulfur. You can also get this from Pyrotek.
• Charcoal dust. The type of charcoal you use plays an important role in the quality of the end product.
You’ll want charcoal that is carbonized evenly and all the way through. Willow and grapevine charcoals
are generally regarded as the best to use, being very reactive. See the article titled “Charcoal” for more
information.

Equipment:
• A ball mill with a load of heavy balls and a load of fairly light balls. See “Ball Mills” for more
information and a plan to make your own.
• A hydraulic press. See “Hydraulic Presses” for more information.
• A vessel of smashing. There are two methods to go with: The first involves using a pot or a bowl and
crushing the powder in it. The second involves putting the powder in a plastic bag and hitting it with
something to crush it. Whichever method you use is up to you.
• Something to crush black powder cakes with. A wooden baseball bat, a weight bar, or even a hammer
will do. Make sure you can use it with your vessel of smashing. (For example, a hammer and a pot
doesn’t work well, but a hammer and a bag does.)

Procedure:
1. The first step is to gather up all your ingredients and mill them. Load your ball mill with 75% potassium
nitrate, 15% charcoal, and 10% sulfur (by weight, not volume). Also load in the heavy balls and fire it up.
Milling time will vary depending on the size of your mill, the weight of the balls, the amount of ingredients,
&c. A good time to check on it is after three hours of milling. If you have a uniformly colored mass of very
fine powder then you are ready for the next step. You should have a hard time seeing the particles in the mix
without magnification. If it looks coarser than this, put it back in for another spin in the mill. You can’t
overmill it, so don’t worry about that.

2. The powder you now have is called “green powder”, and though it is not finished black powder yet it is
useful for some things like fuses and lift charges. You will now have to moisten your powder just enough to
make it clump together. Load this into your press and press it down until it forms a solid hard cake. This
cake should hold it’s shape well and be of uniform consistency. If it isn’t, press it some more. This process
is called “corning”.

3. Allow your cake of pressed powder to dry out completely before attempting the next step.

4. It is now time for the step that I call “smashing”. It is fairly simple. Place your powder cake in something
durable and crush it into grains. The goal here is to break it into smaller pieces with a high enough surface
area to promote fast burning, but not to the point where the ingredients fall apart (become “unpressed”, so to
speak) into useless powder. A good grain size for most applications is about half a millimeter. Larger grains
are useful as well, mostly for lift charges and powering large cannons. You may wish to separate your
different grain sizes with a set of screens.

Your black powder is now ready for use.
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  #2   Add asilentbob to your ignore list  
Old 2007-04-19, 04:06
asilentbob asilentbob is offline
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Default Re: Is this safe/accurate?

Green powder or green mix is a very poor mix of KNO3, S, and C. IE you would just pour all the chems into a container and mix it with a stick or whatever. It burns very slowly, if at all.

Meal powder is black powder straight out of the mill. IE you take all your chems, throw them in the mill and mill them for several hours to several days... however much you want really... Milling media must be non-sparking for milling BP... Lead musket balls work great. It burns a good deal faster than greenmix and is useful for priming stars, making blackmatch, making some kinds of stars, etc.

Granulated and corned BP are often confused in literature. I might be mixing them up right now... Their burn rate is much faster than meal powder due to all the space between the grains that flame can pass through quickly.

IIRC Granulating is essentially wetting the meal powder and "grating" it through a screen like a window screen so that you get little "granules."

IIRC Corning is wetting meal very very slightly, then compressing it to a certain density in a puck that is allowed to dry, then broken up into little hard grains. The higher density increases burn rate a bit. Alot of the pros do this for the lift on their aerial shells.

Granulating and corning allow the flame frount to spread throughout fast. IE with BP rocket engines on the surface layer of BP is exposed and burns at a time. With a tube filled with gran BP the flame passes throughout very fast and ignites it all.
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  #3   Add DiamondX to your ignore list  
Old 2007-04-19, 04:34
DiamondX DiamondX is offline
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Default Re: Is this safe/accurate?

Oh, I understand now, thanks. That makes a lot more sense now.
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  #4   Add Mokothar to your ignore list  
Old 2007-04-19, 09:38
Mokothar Mokothar is offline
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embedded in your imagination Mokothar is worth listening to Mokothar is worth listening to Mokothar is worth listening to Mokothar is worth listening to
Default Re: Is this safe/accurate?

It's safer to wet your chemicals a bit before milling, aside of that, it looks safe enough.

The A-files ... man, long time ago.
Should they even be out there?
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  #5   Add DiamondX to your ignore list  
Old 2007-04-20, 05:27
DiamondX DiamondX is offline
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Default Re: Is this safe/accurate?

What do you mean, "Should they even be out there?"
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  #6   Add warweed12 to your ignore list  
Old 2007-04-20, 06:14
warweed12 warweed12 is online now
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Default Re: Is this safe/accurate?

diamondX im going to assume you downloaded that form what was my site warweed.com before it got shut down it would have been "all the pyro zip's in one" or just the A-files if that is the case then all stuff was screened and yes the A-files was written bye Zero now known here as Fate
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  #7   Add DiamondX to your ignore list  
Old 2007-04-20, 06:36
DiamondX DiamondX is offline
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Default Re: Is this safe/accurate?

Yea, I downloaded the giant zip. I still have it to. So every thing is correct and safe (atleast as safe as it can be with pyro)? Thanks.
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  #8   Add tordek battlehammer to your ignore list  
Old 2007-04-22, 16:46
tordek battlehammer tordek battlehammer is offline
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The south of the UK Send a message via MSN to tordek battlehammer tordek battlehammer is an unknown
Default Re: Is this safe/accurate?

Yeah those files were really useful. I think I downloaded almost every .PDF and read them all in deph.

Very useful I learned a lot!
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