Anyone grown in the winter?(live in UK) outside, i want to grow now but i live with parents and cant really think of anywhere inside to hide it,

Will seeds that are a pale color germinate?

quote:Originally posted by shadow operative:

Anyone grown in the winter?(live in UK) outside, i want to grow now but i live with parents and cant really think of anywhere inside to hide it,

"The growing season in the UK is rather short. Cannabis is induced to flower when the daylight has reduced to about 13 hours per day. This happens sometime during September, therefore the plant has only 6 to 10 weeks flowering time before the first frost kills the plant.

September and October can also be cold and wet, increasing the chances of fungus and disease ruining the crop. There are varieties bred especially for outdoor growing in Northern Europe, but these tend to give poorer results than the best indoor or greenhouse types."

http://www.dope-seeds.com/growing.htm

I have failed countless times trying to grow outdoors, so I decided I want to start an all indoor grow.

I have some good bag seeds I will use, but not all from the same bag.

I have a 43 watt "cool white" compact floro I will use, This light should be good for 1 squar foot of growth. Could I use this bulb to flowering and veg?

I need to know where I can get a light timer and how much they normally cost. What do these things look like anyways?

[This message has been edited by red white and jew (edited 10-09-2006).]

Light timers can be got from any hardwear store/Walmart... Anywhere they well extention cords and light bulbs, really. They cost around $15.

I am growing for the first time. The baby sprotted last Friday(4 days ago.) The bottom of the stem, however, it bent almost completly horizontally. It's vertical for the magority of the the hight.

Like this

<A HREF="http://tinyurl.com/mmfv5">http://tinyurl.com/mmfv5" width="90" height="90 (http://tinyurl.com/mmfv5" width="90" height="90)</A>

What should I do? Tie it to a little stick or something? Or should I just leave it?

Tie it up and give it more light if it doesnt already have good direct light. In the early stages, they will grow long and stringy if not given enough light(they're trying to grow to find some).



Oh yea, I forgot. Don't forget to look in the archives, too. All of the Official Grow Threads from BLTC are archived in the drugs section.

[This message has been edited by squeegee (edited 10-10-2006).]

It's under a 24/0 light cycle and has been for a couple days. The lights I am using are 2-4' floros and they are about 1 inch away from the plant. This is just until I can get either a compact or 4-1' cool and warm floros.

If this plant, by some miracle, grows, what is the bare minimum amount of time I should veg it for to keep it as descrete as possible? I've read 40 days.

[This message has been edited by Checkk (edited 10-10-2006).]

using floro's, you dont get a full spectrum of light, this can cause stringy growth, ie long weak stem. coupled with a 24/0 the plant isnt getting any time to recouperate to build strong growth. try backing off to 18/6 to see if it recovers or if you can afford it get a HPS or MH light (might not be worth it for one plant tho)

when inducing flowering, base it on vegetive growth, look to have 4-7 internodes in general. once it has 4 flower it for speed.

http://tinyurl.com/jugjb - links for making a hydro system

edit: link





[This message has been edited by dr rocker (edited 10-11-2006).]

alright i got a question,

im growing in florida outdoors in a hydroponics system will it be able to flower between now and when it gets cold?

help cause im worried bout her future

^Well really you should just try for indoors if you can... but then again I guess it doesn't get too cold in Florida. Indoors would still be best though.

hello there. This next season will be my first ever in growing cannabis. None of theses sites so far make any sense what so ever. I have gardening skills and i will be transplanting out doors. Can some on e please give some advice to a new grower that wants to improve himself?

[This message has been edited by BazookaMedic (edited 10-12-2006).]

quote:Originally posted by squeegee:

Oh yea, I forgot. Don't forget to look in the archives, too. All of the Official Grow Threads from BLTC are archived in the drugs section.

Right... they might not be too helpful, but here's the links.

1 (http://tinyurl.com/lm4gx)

2 (http://tinyurl.com/mw77r)

3 (http://tinyurl.com/q9ly6)

quote:Originally posted by BazookaMedic:

hello there. This next season will be my first ever in growing cannabis. None of theses sites so far make any sense what so ever. I have gardening skills and i will be transplanting out doors. Can some on e please give some advice to a new grower that wants to improve himself?



What sort of a climate have ya got thar?

It is in the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone 6

The climate according to the climate map is Humid Sub-Tropical. It is Cold right now obviously. I will be a first time grower next season. Again please help an inexperienced noob to growing cannabis out in his first season.

You should be able to grow some good outdoors weed in your climate. Weed is an annual plant which germinates, flowers and produces seed all in one year. It likes fairly a growing medium of fairly neutral PH. If you have gardening experience then you should know about seed germination, using wet paper towels to germinate seeds has a high success rate, just be careful with the seeds once the taproot has developed. The seeds should take 2-10 days to germinate, some are quicker and some are slower. Keep the towels moist, not soaking wet.

There should be no fertilisation of cannabis plants while in germination/seedling stage. Once the seed has developed a tap root you can transplant it into some compost to develop into a seedling. Your seedling can grow quite well under fluorescent light or in indirect sunlight and you should keep it under this light until it has developed at least 3 pairs of branches. When it's established itself as a plant you can begin to harden it off to the outside climate, putting it in a sheltered spot for a few hours every day, gradually increasing the amount of time it's spending outside. If the leaves start to turn a pale green it's time to feed your plants with a balanced NPK fertiliser diluted to a quarter of the recommended amount on the packet/bottle. When the plant has been hardened off to the outside climate you'll want to prepare a hole to plant it in(I'm guessing you're planting in the ground and not keeping it in a pot outside). Dig a 1ft x 1ft square hole and fill with a mixture of sand, compost a small handful of dolomite lime and a small handful of fish, blood and bone. Mix all of this up in the hole and transplant your plant into the hole. If you plant your plant outside in Mid May you should be able to have some killer weed by mid september. If you're buying seeds over the internet then consider femaleseeds.nl and their Easy Sativa strain.

If the weather is especially hot and dry you might need to water the plant every day when its outside, if the leaves wilt in the heat then you'll need to give your plant lots of water. Check for fungus and mould regularly if the weather is humid. Growing outside is fairly simple and just takes common sense more than anything else.

ok thank you very much. I will be planting in a woodland enviroment. What is the difference between the darker color seeds and the lighter ones?

I'll assume your talking about seeds?

The main difference is that darker seeds have matured in the calyx on the marijuana plant and the lighter seeds are immature and not as suitable for germination as darker seeds because they are immature. Seed colours and patterns change depending on the genetics of a plant also, some strain's seeds will look relatively pale when mature compared to another strain which could have a dark marbled coating or be dark all over. This may sound strange but good seeds look pretty.

If you're talking about darker colour plants; many cannabis plants take on a red/purple hue when subjected to a cold environment. Some strains display different coloured hues due to their genetics, there is a European variety which is completely black and unless the genetic pool is interfered with the strain will always breed black plants.

well my 15 seed are a paleish brown to brown. Can i grow with the pale seeds.

You can try and you should get some of the light ones to germinate but expect best results from the darker seeds.

My plant is now 8 days old and looks pretty good! I'm not sure if I should be worried, but the stem looks a little small. I can't get the light any closer because of the little pot it is in; the top of the plant is about half an inch or less away from it. I don't think it is trying to strech. Is it too young to be giving it fertalizer? What is it that makes the stem thicker?

Also, I have it on the 18/4 cycle, but I don't have a timer on it, I have to try to move it at the same times. Obviously, I can't always get the same time every day. So, if I change the time the lights off withen 45 minuets every day, would it be okay as long as it gets about 4 hours of darkness a day?

quote:Originally posted by Junkie-Wino-Creep:

http://tinyurl.com/qbfed

Thats the girl, one of 15.

2 more weeks yet you think?

(it has a slight phosphorous problem)

I guess this belongs here than.



She looks pretty swell to me. Very pretty.

*bookmarks thread and sits back*

Harvested my crop. I had three plants, all in my backyard. Its drying now but it looks like ill get around 2 pounds. Pretty good for my first grow.

what strain of weed is the shortest, i want the smallest plant possible as i have been told they often grow over four feet this would be hard to hide indoors from parents.

quote:Originally posted by shadow operative:

what strain of weed is the shortest, i want the smallest plant possible as i have been told they often grow over four feet this would be hard to hide indoors from parents.



"Lowryder"

But I belive you can cut any plant back to keep it small. Not saying it is smart, though.

I have a few Q's.

I have a few plants growing indoors, I got 6 cups and 2 seeds in each cup, most of them sprouted yesterday. I'm trying the "sea of green" way. I will put them into flower in about 2 weeks.

They are growing under a 43 watt soft white compact floro, will I be able to flower with this light? It's really all I can get.

I heard that a cannabis plant produces most of the THC after 4 weeks of flowering and all the time after that is making the buds denser and changing the type of high. This true?

If that is true then I will harvest after 4 weeks.. I just want some fast weed.

And when does flowering really start? Like how do you measure the time it's been flowering? When you change the lights over to 12/12 or when it shows it's sex 7-10 days after?

And when it comes time it harvest, would it affect the potentcy if I dry them by setting the buds on newspaper and having a floro shining right above it? I don't really care if it doesn't taste good.

As much as the type of smoker you describe yourself as disgusts me I'll endeavour to answer your questions.

Taking "most" to mean approximately 10, you'll probably get 5 females out of them and of those five two may survive. For two plants packed very closely together 43W of fluoro will not be ample for a respectable harvest. You really should let them mature to at least 3 weeks before putting them into 12/12. They are only in the seedling stage now and will take 1 1/2 weeks to 2 weeks to get into vegetative.

If you could get four or five 20w energy saver bulbs and fit them above the plants also your grow space would benefit immensely. You should be able to get cheap energy saver bulbs for 99c or so each and the fittings don't cost much more. The 150w or so of light would be a lot more suitable for a couple of plants.

Cannabis plants producing most of their THC in the first four weeks is not quite true. Different plants vary and most plants develop more THC in the last four weeks of flowering. To harvest your plants after flowering them for only four weeks is not advised, it is much more sensible to watch the plant develop for a month or two waiting for pre-flowers. Once the plant shows its pre-flowers it is telling you what sex it is, now you can kill the males and keep the pretty females for flowering.

You want a small SOG right? Well the way SOG's are usually done is with clones from Bushy mature plants, because the clones are easy to keep uniform and are the same age as the mature mother plant so they can flower immediately.

Flowering starts as soon as you switch the lights to 12/12 really, plants immediately react to the change in light cycle. Although it can take 7-10 days for visibly noticeable changes in the plant.

THC content degrades when exposed to light and fluorescent lights are quite cool so they won't dry weed very well. It'd be best to just set the buds on the newspaper and cover with more newspaper, turning the buds twice a day and keeping them in a fairly well ventilated and dry room.

quote:Originally posted by [{{ªÞE×}}]:

As much as the type of smoker you describe yourself as disgusts me I'll endeavour to answer your questions.

Taking "most" to mean approximately 10, you'll probably get 5 females out of them and of those five two may survive. For two plants packed very closely together 43W of fluoro will not be ample for a respectable harvest. You really should let them mature to at least 3 weeks before putting them into 12/12. They are only in the seedling stage now and will take 1 1/2 weeks to 2 weeks to get into vegetative.

If you could get four or five 20w energy saver bulbs and fit them above the plants also your grow space would benefit immensely. You should be able to get cheap energy saver bulbs for 99c or so each and the fittings don't cost much more. The 150w or so of light would be a lot more suitable for a couple of plants.

Cannabis plants producing most of their THC in the first four weeks is not quite true. Different plants vary and most plants develop more THC in the last four weeks of flowering. To harvest your plants after flowering them for only four weeks is not advised, it is much more sensible to watch the plant develop for a month or two waiting for pre-flowers. Once the plant shows its pre-flowers it is telling you what sex it is, now you can kill the males and keep the pretty females for flowering.

You want a small SOG right? Well the way SOG's are usually done is with clones from Bushy mature plants, because the clones are easy to keep uniform and are the same age as the mature mother plant so they can flower immediately.

Flowering starts as soon as you switch the lights to 12/12 really, plants immediately react to the change in light cycle. Although it can take 7-10 days for visibly noticeable changes in the plant.

THC content degrades when exposed to light and fluorescent lights are quite cool so they won't dry weed very well. It'd be best to just set the buds on the newspaper and cover with more newspaper, turning the buds twice a day and keeping them in a fairly well ventilated and dry room.

Thanks,

But what do you mean by "As much as the type of smoker you describe yourself as disgusts me". Is it because I just want some fast weed? I really can't support my daily habbit and I'm just fed up with so many failed grows in the past, and putting so much time and energy in them.

I'm just praying that I'll yeild something this time. Isn't it something like 35 watts per squar foot? I have all my plants close together under the light, so It's applying to the lighting rules..should yeild at least something.

where is the best place to get lights from? what do i need to ask for im looking for the cheapest but most effective will be growing inside an empty computer case, live in uk

Yea, I was just taking the piss though.

It'll yield something but just not much, not much at all. If you have a little amount of your local currency you can buy energy saving fluorescent light bulbs and fix them in the grow area. They REALLY need as much light as you can give them otherwise they can and will die. Long stretched seedlings will fall over and get stem rot and die due to not enough light which will very likely happen if you choose to grow under one 43w fluoro. Just try to get some more fluoro lights to put in there so that they don't stretch for light too much and think about killing all but one of your females so that you can direct all the light and space you have to one plant and get as much weed as possible. The more weed you have the longer it'll last and the stronger it is the less you have to use (well if you don't factor in the truth that it's easy to smoke primo weed all day everyday).

quote:Originally posted by shadow operative:

where is the best place to get lights from? what do i need to ask for im looking for the cheapest but most effective will be growing inside an empty computer case, live in uk

Try a 125W red spectrum envirolite or multiple 20w energy saving fluorescent bulbs from maplins or headshop or growstore.

cheers guy, ill get some on the internet i have ordered 2 low ryder seeds and 1 white widow seed (only had 12 euros and wanted to buy them there and then) can someone point me to a good guide or two about harvesting? thanks guys

I think I'm going to try and do an indoor hydro system when time permits, but I have a few questions.



I've heard second hand about generational growing. Supposedly, this guy clips his buds, but leaves a small amound on the plant and it continues to grow. Could I clip the buds this way and keep in in the budding cycle to indefinitely bud my plants or would I need to let them grown and restabalize a bit?

Can hydrophonic nutrients be bought at my local nursery?

Finally, I've been looking through seed banks. The cheapest one I've found is the Nottingham seed bank. Has anyone had an experience with them? Are they legit?

This (http://www.uk420.com/boards/index.php?showtopic=38959) is a pretty good guide to harvesting and curing.

Squeegee, regenerational growing is somewhat viable for getting two harvests out of one plant but the second harvest will always be fairly minimal compared to the first and the time involved in reverting a plant to vegetative to build up sugars and then putting back into flowering could be put to much better use tending to a mother plant and taking clones. Cloning is more popular than regenerational groing for a good reason, it's more dependable and you get better results for the effort put in.

The most you can really get out of a plant is two harvests with regenerational growing because the plant is an annual it just isn't made to be regenerated and flower again.

It's best to keep one or two plants in 24/0 as mothers and make clones for a hydro system.

This way you could have a perpetual harvest system rather than waiting to regenerate a plant for small amounts of bud.

Hydroponic nutrients could quite likely be found at your local nursery but your best bet would be with canna hydroponics nutrients from a headshop or bought online. A good hydro set up could use canna coco coir and canna A + B Nutrients, I don't mean to advertise them but they'll give damn good results.

I've seen varying reports about Nottingham Seedbank, it's pretty much always best to buy direct from the seedbank if you can or official seedshops for the seedbank.

Here's some good seedsites which are reliable and have top quality well priced seeds:

http://www.greenhouseseeds.nl/enter.html Go to the Available section and scroll down to the bottom, you should find they're selling 5 Himalayan Gold seeds for €19.00.

www.sensiseeds.com (http://www.sensiseeds.com) Under Whitelabel you should be able to find their White Skunk seeds, €12.00 for 16 seeds. Have a few of them on the go miself.

www.femaleseeds.nl (http://www.femaleseeds.nl) I love the femaleseeds seed company. Am growing Grapefruit, Northern Lights, Grapefruit x Northern Lights and C99 from them and all the plants are incredibly vigorous. The handy thing is you can buy packs of 4/5 for around €20 and get a really good mother plant out of those seeds.

http://www.hemcy.com/open.html Hemcy has some real nice strains and although they're all over €40 for 12 you could do worse than get some of their Inca Spirit €80/£55.

Also, check out http://www.bcbudonline.com for some nice strains too, they're a bit costly but quality is high.

For lots of good cheap seeds sensiseeds is very good, their WhiteSkunk, Skunk#1 and Sensi Skunk are all very good cheap seeds.

To follow is some information on Tissue Culture cloning for ambitious folk. Stay tuned.

Tissue culture is basically the practice of cutting a little bit of a leaf off and placing it in a special solution which encourages the plant cells to multiply to the point of creating a whole new plant with roots, leaves and stem from a small piece of a plant's leaf.

More in depth:

Items Needed for Home Tissue Culture:

1 - A sterile still air cabinet used to transfer plants. A fish tank on its side makes an ideal transfer cabinet. Any perspex or glass chamber with dimensions of 50 cm (length), 40 cm (height) and 40 cm (depth) could easily be made into a transfer cabinet.

2 - A pressure cooker for sterilisation of media, instruments, water, paper towelling etc.

3 - Glass jars (baby food jars are excellent) and take away food containers with lids which can withstand the heat inside a pressure cooker are ideal vessels to use.

4 - Scalpel and forceps

5 - Paper towelling or even A4 white copy paper, cut to size, can be sterilised and used for a sterile cutting surface.

6 - A spirit lamp containing ethanol for flaming the instruments (avoid using Methanol as it is toxic!).

7 - Hand held spray bottle containing 70% alcohol solution to spray the transfer chamber and other surfaces.

8 - Dilute chlorine solution e.g. 1/4 dilution of the household bleach (e.g. White King) for use in surface sterilisation of plant material.

9 - Any skin disinfectant e.g. Hibitane (obtainable from any chemist shop).

10 - Media (see below)

Media Preparation

All the ingredients indicated below can be purchased using the super market, chemist and a health food shop.

1- Two cups of rain water

2- A quarter cup of sugar

3- Fertiliser stock: 1/2 tablespoon all purpose 10:10:10 (N.P.K.) water soluble fertiliser in 1L of water: use one cup of stock for this recipe.

4- Inositol tablets (500 mg): 1/2 tablet

5- Vitamin tablet with thiamine: 1/2 tablet- Any multivitamin tablet may be used.

6- Agar flakes: 4 tablespoons

This is the basic media. For preparation of multiplication and rooting media add 1/2 cup of coconut milk and 1/2 teaspoon of malt. Replacing the coconut milk with 1/2 cup of green tomato puree or 1/2 cup of freshly squeezed orange juice may produce different responses. Ensure that the pH of medium is always between 5 and 6 using narrow range pH indicator tape. Adjust pH if necessary, with acid e.g. Citric acid or base e.g bicarb soda.

Mix the ingredients in a saucepan and gently boil until the agar has dissolved, stirring continuously to stop the agar sticking and subsequently burning at the bottom of the pan. Dispense into empty glass jars, using a ladle, so that the medium is about 2 cm deep. Cover and process in a pressure cooker. Cook for 15 minutes after the pressure is reached (this will be achieved when the pressure valve starts letting steam out).

Sterilising Instruments and Other Items

Forceps and scalpels can be sterilised by being wrapped in Alfoil and cooked in the pressure cooker for 15 minutes. These items can also be sterilised by being washed in chlorine solution or being dipped in alcohol and flamed.

Sterile water is needed for rinsing plant material and sterile paper towelling to be used as a clean surface to work on. The manipulation can be accomplished on the paper. When the operation is completed, the towel can be discarded and a new sterile surface selected from the sterile supply. The water can be sterilised in glass jars. Place paper inside a paper bag and cook them in the pressure cooker above the water level. The bag will be wet on completion of sterilisation. Transfer the bag to an oven set at 80 šC and allow the bag to dry inside the oven. Do not unwrap the papers until needed.

Sterilisation of Plant Material

All plant material can be sterilised in diluted domestic bleach, for example White King (1/4 cup of White King + 3/4 cup of water + 1 drop of detergent- detergent acts as surfactant). Put plant pieces in a jar containing the bleach for 10-20 minutes. Agitate frequently. Discard the chlorine solution, this process will kill bacteria and fungi and sometimes some parts of the plant such as outer bud scales and softer shoots. Rinse plant pieces twice with sterile water.

Operations in the Sterile Cabinet

Great care should be taken to ensure that your cultures are free from contamination. To achieve this do the followings:

1- Tie back your hair, roll your sleeves up and remove your watch and other jewellery. Wash your hands thoroughly with the disinfectant solution suitable for skin application. If allergic to any disinfectant wash your hands with water and wear a pair of surgical gloves.

2- Sterilise the inside of the cabinet by spraying with 70% alcohol and wiping dry with sterile tissue.

3- Collect and organise all the items you will need close to or inside the cabinet.

4- Working in the cabinet, take a sterilised piece of stem from the jar with a pair of forceps (do not touch the plant material with your hands). Also sterilise your instruments by dipping them in alcohol between each manipulation and flaming them. Small pieces, 2-3 cm long with a few leaves can be cut and transferred to agar medium. If the leaves are too large either remove them or cut them to 1/3-1/2 the size. Put one piece of the shoot into each container (it is important to have only one shoot per container at this stage so that if the shoot is contaminated it cannot spread to the others). Shut the lids of the containers. Store jars at room temperature away from direct sunlight. Leave these shoots for one month.

One of these three things will happen during this time: some of the shoots will be killed by the chlorine solution and or the toxin produced by plants themselves; some will be contaminated by fungi and bacteria; or new shoots will grow very rapidly from the axils of the stems in the uncontaminated containers. Discard the dead and infested cultures.

Shoot Multiplication

The shoots from the previous stage may have elongated during the past four weeks. They need to be transferred to the medium containing the coconut milk (coconut milk has some growth promotory properties which makes plant segments to produce more shoots) for further multiplication.

1- Repeat the preparation and sterilisation steps for the medium, instruments and chamber as before. Sterilise your hands as before too.

2- Transfer the containers of shoots to one side of the cabinet and the sterilised medium at the other side.

3- Use sterile paper towelling, scalpels and forceps as before.

4- With a pair of forceps, remove a stem from its container, and cut on the surface of the sterile paper towelling moistened with some sterile water. It is important to do all the manipulation on a damp paper towel as these plants are very soft and can desiccate readily. The separated shoots can be transferred to the new jars. At this stage, up to five pieces of plant may be put inside each container.

5- Store cultures as explained in the previous stage.

The multiplication stage may be repeated every four weeks until enough plants have been obtained. As a general rule shoots can multiply 3-4 folds every four weeks. The important point to note here is that high rate of contamination during this stage suggests that you are getting air borne contaminants due to poor hygiene.

Root Formation

Once you have established enough shoots, let them grow to at least 2 cm before beginning the rooting process. Transfer shoots to the rooting medium containing coconut milk and malt. Up to five shoots may be put in each culture vessel. Store containers in their usual place as before. Roots should form within two to four weeks.

Transfer to Potting Mix (Acclimatisation)

The operation at this stage is carried out on the open bench. The rooted cultures can be treated as follows:

1- Fill the pots with suitable potting mix without any fertiliser and water well. Allow to drain.

2- Remove the rooted plants from agar medium using a pair of forceps.

3- Wash off the agar thoroughly from the roots using lukewarm water.

4- Insert a hole in the middle of the potting mix and gently insert the roots in that hole.

5- Spray the foliage with a hand spray containing water. These pots can be kept inside a larger plastic containers with a glass cover, out of the direct sunlight. Gradually remove the glass cover but watch for signs of desiccation and if needed use the hand spray to spray water on the foliage.

6- When the roots are well established and the plants are acclimatised (this should take about 4-6 weeks), they can be given fertiliser and be treated like any other plant. It is advisable to gradually increase the light intensity for the plants too.



Extra info:

Tissue culture methods (http://tinyurl.com/yghlds)



Info Exchange (http://tinyurl.com/yesvxm)



http://www.phytotechlab.com/TABSTYLE Chemicals and shit for tissue culture

The International Association for Plant Tissue Culture (http://tinyurl.com/yko838).

There could be more info but my morning coffee buzz is degrading into jittery irritability.



God damn that fucking UBB.





[This message has been edited by [{{ªÞE×}}] (edited 10-17-2006).]

Apex, you are godly. Thanks for the info.

No problem man, I hope your hydro grow goes well.

alright, swim has recently started growing. swim is growing in his closet, and is only growing one plant. right now swim has his timer on ann 18/6 hour light schedule and is lighting with a 200w fluro bulb. swim is only growing one plant for the time being, swim will post pics later.

swims question is will a 200w fluro bulb be enough for the entire growing process? swim is going to invest in a 400w hps light asap, but doesnt have the money right now.

thanks.

200w fluoro will suffice for one plant if said plant is kept around 1-2ft in height.

alright thanks. just makin sure, wouldnt want swim to grow shitty bud

Ok if you're growing outside and a rainstorm that is suppose to last 2-3 days rolls around how can you protect your plants from drowning while still keeping them hidden?

Page 2, and

quote:Originally posted by colorsoc:

Ok if you're growing outside and a rainstorm that is suppose to last 2-3 days rolls around how can you protect your plants from drowning while still keeping them hidden?

that's a little vague. tarp?

whats a seed look like on average?

i got a little white cannabis seed but some people say you should get big black ones?

the seed came in a 20sack one day.

also: i'm gonna put it in some soil out in a foresty area and try and let it grow naturaly (water by rain and other natural ways) it's washington so it should be fine but is this a good idea?

Alright, dig this. A friend has offered me a batch of seeds if I want them. I smoke occasionally, not too big on it but I reckon it would be fun and kinda nice to have some growing around.

A worthwhile investment or not?

colorsoc, your best bet would be either the tarp idea or clear polyethylene held up with some lengths of wood, it won't keep your plants hidden too well but it'd work at keeping the rain out.

trippydeath, nice seeds (http://www.hempcity.net/travelreports/spain2004/cannabisgarden2004/image014.jpg) should be fairly dark. Some have marbled surfaces of dark and light and some are quite dark all over but white seeds are immature and will most likely not germinate at all.

Putting the seed in some soil out in the forest to germinate would cut your chances of it growing to even less. It's always best to germinate inside in a somewhat controlled environment and transplant the seedling once it has established itself somewhat.

None, growing is a good life experience and if you can get seeds for free then it could be fun. If you have about $500 or so to put into growing then you could have a good little grow which could change your outlook on many things.

I was thinking a tarp aswell but I'm trying to keep my grow hidden from planes/helicopters so a tarp would only bring more attention. As long as my soil drains enough would a mid sized plant hold up to a storm of that caliber without drowning? Also now that I'm think about it should I also stake it up so the wind doesn't knock it over? What I'm basically asking is how can I protect my plants from a big storm.

Stake it up with good strong stakes and strong twine. You could get some camouflage netting from an army surplus store and cover it with that. The netting would not be very wind and rain proof but it would help. You could cover the plant with some clear polyethylene and then cover it with the camouflage netting to really keep it safe.

Alright thanks

Out of the 12 seeds I planted indoors 10 came up, the other 2 died. They are all 4 or 5 days old and aren't stretching at all. They are now all starting on their 2nd set of leafs.

quote:Originally posted by red white and jew:

Out of the 12 seeds I planted indoors 10 came up, the other 2 died. They are all 4 or 5 days old and aren't stretching at all. They are now all starting on their 2nd set of leafs.

Good luck

quote:Originally posted by red white and jew:

Out of the 12 seeds I planted indoors 10 came up, the other 2 died. They are all 4 or 5 days old and aren't stretching at all. They are now all starting on their 2nd set of leafs.



hopefully there pussies not dicks

quote:Originally posted by boozehound420:



hopefully there pussies not dicks

How to tell?

http://weedfarmer.com/gallery/male-female

http://www.snow-white.nl/engeland/h26EARLYSEXING.htm

http://www.marijuana-seeds-cannabis.com/marijuana_seeds_cannabis_Sexing.php

It'll be great when panthrax comes crawling over to TGO on his hands and knees to beg for this grow thread back. After he fucked things up so badly over in BLTC, he'll need the traffic.

quote:Originally posted by ManInBlack:

It'll be great when panthrax comes crawling over to TGO on his hands and knees to beg for this grow thread back. After he fucked things up so badly over in BLTC, he'll need the traffic.

That is over. Don't bring that shit in here.

Like I said a few days ago, my plants are all growing they're 2nd set of leafs, some are alot farther along than others (prolly because they are bag seeds from 2 different bags). They are about a week old now.

I noticed one of the plant is only growing one new leaf insted of 2..what the hell? I've never seen or heard of this before.

Plants do strange things sometimes, like tri-lateral branching, the genes just throw out some curveballs every now and again.

Edit: I misspelt "Throw" as "Through" . I must have been high.

[This message has been edited by [{{ªÞE×}}] (edited 10-24-2006).]

apex you should get a modship because you are so helpful. I am constructing a starter box currently. keep up the good work.

Thank you BazookamMedic, I hope I can help with stuff. I am very interested in the cannabis plant and its effects so anything within my little limit of knowledge I'll try to explain in cases where it seems possible. Thabk you and I'll count that as four votes to my modship Zok and ACiDMeLt.

Now you got 5 votes, your very very helpful.

Anyone used any websites for ordering seeds?

ok im thinking of growing my first batch of weed but im a little unsure where to get high quality seeds that will be easy to grow for a first timer like me.

i read its good to get the seeds from the bottom of the bag of the best stuff youve smoked before, but then id just be getting more or less the same quality as that dealer when i want the GOOD stuff.

i also read that you shouldnt really buy seeds off the internet as it is unreliable but i dont know.

ive got a few good detailed guides on growing i just want to be growing the best i can.

What are the qualities of excellent bud?

Cheers red white and jew

Shadow Operative, there are a lot of websites for ordering seeds. The most reliable are the sites operated by the actual seed companies i.e.

http://www.nirvana-shop.com

http://www.femaleseeds.nl

http://www.sensiseeds.com

http://www.paradise-seeds.com

http://www.cannabiogen.com

http://www.hemcy.com

http://www.greenhouseseeds.nl

http://www.dutch-passion.nl

http://www.seriousseeds.com

http://www.highestseeds.com

http://www.somaseeds.nl

http://www.dnagenetics-amsterdam.com

http://www.magusgenetics.com

http://www.thseeds.com

There are of course many more sites but there's a few. Most take Credit Card or Postal Order, some take cash, western union transfers etc.

jimbobjones, the sites above will serve you high quality seeds. For a first timer who wants high quality weed it could be worth your while to check out Grapefruit x NL from Femaleseeds. It is a very good cross and grows vigorously, the end product(if grown ok) will be the envy of pretty much any smoker you know. I've been smoking some SAGE recently which would be an ambitious grow for a first timer but I must say if you want good fucking weed try some SAGE. It is STRONG weed and a delight to be high on.

If you buy from seedbanks your purchase will be more reliable than if you buy from a person growing hobby weed for themselves or bagseeds because you will be dealing directly with the company who breed the seeds you buy. They put a fuck load of work into breeding the seeds to bring to you as good a quality as they can and the strains(unless otherwise stated) should be quite stable and not differ too much from one plant to the next. Whereas with bagseed or a friend's seeds from their pollinated crop will not be stable, you'll get interesting and sometimes nice plants but it's not a great place to start off from it's kinda like learning to swim with a blindfold on.

BazookaMedic, the qualities of excellent bud are variable dependant on personal preference. Some people like high trippy weed, some people like pain killing lethargic weed, some people like a mix of both etc.

Excellent bud will have to have been flushed of nutrients for a couple of weeks before harvest so the bud tastes of bud and not any residual nutrients not used up by the plant. It'll have to have been dried properly in an airy atmosphere with relative humidity around 50% and dried for a month at least. after drying it should be cured for another month at least in an airtight container in a cool, dark, dry place being checked and moved around inside the jar every few days. But really this is just what should be done with bud not the qualities of excellent bud. I'm not sure what the qualities of excellent bud are but when you find them you sure know you've found them. * and * have spent over ten thousand euros in the past couple of months in an attempt to produce a good environment to grow excellent bud, * had many discussions about what qualities to look for in the high of different buds but know that from one plant to the next the differences can be extreme and both plants can have excellent bud with completely different qualities.





[This message has been edited by [{{ªÞE×}}] (edited 10-28-2006).]

here are some good sites to help first timers growers. http://greenmanspage.com/guides/

this has lots of helpful info.

http://www.uk420.com/boards/index.php?act=home

this is a good site if you become a member and are haveing problems with your crop just take some pics of your plants post them and the other members can help.

what concerns do i have to worry about in the "processing" stage. and how do I rid the "residual Nutrients".

Guide to harvesting and curing (http://www.uk420.com/boards/index.php?showtopic=38959).

Getting rid of residual nutrients is just a matter of not feeding the plant any nutrients for the last two weeks of its life and giving it plain water instead.

quote:Originally posted by shadow operative:

Anyone used any websites for ordering seeds?

I ordered seeds off www.weedfarmer.com (http://www.weedfarmer.com) before. They are cheap and good for beginners I think, they don't have many strains though.

Well, I got a plant now. Suppose I might be visiting this thread a bit more often.

My plants are now 27 days old.

I had 10, I killed 2 last week because they just stopped growing(only had 2 sets of leafs), so I'm left with 8. My smallest plant has 3 sets of leafs, the biggest has 5. Most of them are around 4 1/2 inces tall.

I gave them ferts for the first time last friday, I'm thinking about putting them in flower on the 15th, so that would give them a total of 36 days of veg.

I have a feeling they should be bigger by now..maybe they're root bound since I have them in small cups?

How much bud should I expect per plant? I know this question depends on strain, but they're from bag seed.

Well, I put them into flower last night since they are pretty root bound and I need to weed out the males asap to make room to put the females in bigger pots.

Since they're so small I'm guessing I'll get at least 4g's per female.

[This message has been edited by red white and jew (edited 11-10-2006).]

quote:Originally posted by Dr. Ol Raw:

http://tinyurl.com/sxztx [How to grow marijuana outdoors]

http://tinyurl.com/bnsv5 [How to grow marijuana indoors]

http://tinyurl.com/han5o [Hydroponic System]

http://tinyurl.com/g6afw [Another hydroponic system]

I will add more links later on. Hope those links help.

From your first link. " Can you turn bad weed into good weed? Surprisingly enough, the answer to this oft-asked inquiry is, yes! Like most other things in life, the amount of good you are going to do relates directly to how much effort you are going to put into it.

1. Take a quantity of grass and dampen it, place in a baggie or another socially acceptable container, and store it in a dark, dampish place for a couple of weeks (burying it also seems to work). The grass will develop a mold which tastes a bit harsh, a and burns a tiny bit funny, but does increase the potency."



Wow.

theoretical question here so dont blow your tops over it. is it possible to order cannabis seeds and have them shipped to the states?

Doornob, I hope your "Wow" was sarcastic

I CUT YOU UP, Yes.

Plans:

-70W HPS security light from Lowe's

-ATX Full Tower Case

-Northern Lights (low odor and easy to grow)

I'm going to pull out some insulation and stick the case behind a wall for ultimate stealth. If anyone asks, it picks up wireless and is stationed there for the best signal.

Temps in the basement will be around 65F. It is enough light for a decent small yield, but do you think I should go higher to maybe a 100W or a 150W? As long as the heat is kept down, can plants get too much light?

After learning and reading about growing, I have decided to start growing. I live with my parents at the moment, so it'll be a closet grow. I plan on have 1-2 plants. I already have two 4-5ft 400 watt tflorescent lights. I'm planning on getting the Top44 strain. I'm not quite sure on what to get regarding nutrients. I know is for veg state is to have high nitrogen and for flower stage is to have higher phosphorus. The things I am worried about are - The Odor and how to get rid of it. The lighting position, I only have 1 set of 2 florscent tubes and they can only fit Verticly in my closet and not horizontily.

And to the person above me, I've read on most guides that there can never be too much light. but there can be too much heat causing the plant to dry up, I'm not sure though.

[This message has been edited by B0nGh1t (edited 11-13-2006).]

use specialist nutrients from grow shops. they will sell ones for growth and flowering. to get rid of the smell, use a fan and a filter. a decent powered 4'' bathroom fan will do, here is a guide to make a filter

guide (http://tinyurl.com/tl2tv)

edit: link



[This message has been edited by dr rocker (edited 11-13-2006).]

SWIM thinks that his MJ crop is about ready to be harvested. What signs should he look for regarding the buds?

He's heard that when half the hairs are orange, the plant's ready to be picked.

Any specific answers or pictures concerning this topic would be much appreciated.

^It is all plant specific and also what you like. The trichomes tell the actual maturity of the plant, so if you want a more body stone you would wait for a lot of the trichomes to start turning amber. More heady high would come from cloudy trichomes.

This is also genetic dependent, since Indica gives a different high than Sativa.

I suggest just taking a small bud from the bottom of the plant, drying it and smoke it and see how the high is, if you like the high, it probably means the plant is ready.

Also I would love to put someone to the test to see if they can tell the difference between flushed weed, and unflushed weed. I doubt they could.

I bet most people couldn't even tell the difference between strains, even though they claim that they can definitely pick out strains by the high or smell.

would reptile lamps work for growing indoors? If so, how powerful does the light need to be to get a good crop? If not, what's an alternative that would be cheap and the salesperson wouldn't be suspicious of somebody buying?

I think I fucked op my plants..

Lets just say the light cycle fucked up, I had it on 12/12 but I turned off the light 30 minutes late and then the light stayed on for like an hour during the dark cycle.

I've only had the lights on 12/12 for a few days, think it'll recover shortly or will it take weeks to find out they're sex now?

Anyone ever fucked up the light cycle before?

Also, I bought a timer but it only goes up to 8 hours so I haven't used it, I need to get one that goes up to 12. Do I have to reset timmers every day or do they just keeping doing 12/12 out with out needing to be reset?

Depends on the timer, but most I have seen do it everyday all day. So I think you are safe, also you will be fine it is only the first couple days of flowering, I have messed up light cycles it was no big deal.

Also no reptile lamps won't work, those are made to produce heat. Something you could get and that I have seen and can grow good bud is flourescents.

Depending on your space get either 2ft or 4ft bulbs, and you can get a couple of small like 32W fluro's and set that up as your grow lights.

Don't produce much heat so ventilation isn't as big of a deal, and the electricity is less, the only downfall is the buds won't be as dense, but the bud is still really good.

I bought a new timer today, now I'm back on track.

They started they're first dark cycle thursday at 11pm, so they are about 5 days in flowering. I can't really tell they're sex yet, the small pre flowers all look the same. They sort of look like male flowers.

But I really doubt they are all males, I guess some female hairs should pop up any day now.

^Good to hear you are back on track, I just hit a bump in the road, for some reason with my DWC setup I couldn't figure out why my plants were keeling over right when I transferred them to my flowering chamber.

Then after about 2 weeks of thinking about it and trying to resolve the issue I realized the pH was too high in the water, I switched to individual buckets, then I put more pH down into the water.

Went to sleep and the next morning both plants a White Rhino and a AK-48 female were nice and perky, can't wait to see what these two strains are going to offer.

quote:Originally posted by CarbonB:

Depends on the timer, but most I have seen do it everyday all day. So I think you are safe, also you will be fine it is only the first couple days of flowering, I have messed up light cycles it was no big deal.

Also no reptile lamps won't work, those are made to produce heat. Something you could get and that I have seen and can grow good bud is flourescents.

Depending on your space get either 2ft or 4ft bulbs, and you can get a couple of small like 32W fluro's and set that up as your grow lights.

Don't produce much heat so ventilation isn't as big of a deal, and the electricity is less, the only downfall is the buds won't be as dense, but the bud is still really good.



K thanks

[This message has been edited by krazy_white_kid (edited 11-14-2006).]

I fucked up the light cycle..AGAIN

I set the timer wrong..fuck fuck fuck fuck.

I came home and it was 2 hours after the timer should have turned off, the light was still on.. Jesus fucking christ I have the worst luck.

Now this is the 2nd time I fucked up the light cycle in the past few of days and this is it's 5th or 6th day of flowering.

+ I have to leave in the morning so the plants won't be geting the full 12 hours of darkness, more like around 8 hours. So now I just had my plants on 14/8 today, but what really worries me is that this isn't the first time shit like this happen, the other day I left the light on an extra 30 minutes and then the light cut on for and hour or 2 during the dark cycle.

God damn it....I'll get them back on 12/12 tomorrow, But now it will prolly take for fucking ever to find out they're sex, and they are already root bound as hell so I really needed to weed out males asap make more room for bigger pots for the females.

Son of a bitch...this is the sort of thing that makes me wan't to just give up on growing, shit allways has to fuck up on every single grow.

How long do ya'll think it'll be before the plants recover?

I say it won't take long, if you can keep the light cycle straight I think in 2 weeks you will see sex definitely.

Growing is a learning experience, you aren't going to be brilliant at it for a while.

I have a question regarding cold temperatures.

When it gets cold outside, is it the temperature that kills plants or is it the frost?

I'm thinking of building a small grow room, enough for one or two plants, in my attic. My attic has no heat, but there is almost no humidity. I live in SC, so the temp probably won't get under 15-20 throughout the winter. Would they grow slow or just die?

It's the temperature that'll kill the plants. 15-20 would be -6 to -9 Celsius which could easily kill the plants if they're exposed to the temperature for an extended period of time. Your best bet would be to pick up some glass fibre insulation from a hardware store and make sure the attic is well insulated. If you can switch the light cycle to 12 hours light at night and 12 hours dark during the day it'll help keep the plants warm during the coldest temperatures.

From Ask Ed: quote:

Temperatures below 50 degrees slow growth in most varieties of marijuana. When the temperature drops below 40 degrees, the plants may experience some damage and require about 24 hours to resume growth. Low nighttime temperatures may delay or prevent bud maturation. Some equatorial varieties stop growth after a few 40 degree nights.

You want to keep temperature differences between night and day inside of 10 degrees or the plants will be stressed. Below 45 plant cells begin to suffer and you'll notice the plants wilting etc.

Well what I would do if I was you, would be to keep the light cycle on during the night, enclose the plants, and you should be fine.

The warmth of the light should be good for the tempature in the cold weather, and keep a heater on the box when the lights are off, if the attic is too cold even with the sun up.

Hey totse i just planted 3 nice green seeds in my backyard. i followed the instructions on the first page on that link but anyways i have a few questions. if i placed each seed about an inch apart will this affect anything? and i planted them about an inch down will this be good? temps are supposed to be in the 70-85 degree range for the next 6 weeks. (i love az)

Yes, but why you are planting outside I have no idea. There is no reason since the season is over for growing outside. You will have to wait.

Anyways, I would of planted them farther apart, doesn't really matter, but an inch down is good.

A few days ago I put my plants in 2 litters cut off about 6 inces tall, they where pretty root bound and the leafs where dying from the bottom up, just like my last grow, so I knew that was the problem.

I think I can tell they're the sex now, not sure, I'm having some trouble telling male from female.

On some of them it it just looks like a thing poking out with another thing poking out on top of it, but it doesn't look like a hair.

Some just look like a bump.

And can you tell the sex by looking at the cola part of the plant? If so, one of them has a big ball on top, and one has a real tiny cluster of leafs looking thing, looks like the start of a bud.

quote:Originally posted by CarbonB:

Yes, but why you are planting outside I have no idea. There is no reason since the season is over for growing outside. You will have to wait.

Anyways, I would of planted them farther apart, doesn't really matter, but an inch down is good.

well, for one, i still live with my parents. desert soil is pretty rich in nutrients and the temperature is still great for planting right now. since im a new planter this might be wrong, but the heat in arizona in the summer gets up to 120 which might not make it grow.

Tempature isn't really the major issue here, it's the light cycles for the plant. Days are shorter, less light for the plants.

You can try though, just to see what happens.

To red and white jew, it is hard to understand from pictures, I never really got what the sex looked like until I had a female plant, now I can tell the difference.

So I say just flower both plants, and you will be able to tell within 2 weeks if it is male or female.

Well, it's been 10 days, almost 2 weeks since I messed up the light cycle.

I've got a timmer and been keeping the light cycle straight.

Not much progress..Not much at all..I guess I should give it a few more days to tell sex for sure.



The bigest plants are showing they're sex on almost every node.

Others only show it near the bottom of the plant.

AND all the flowers still look the same.

Is this a good price on HID lighting?

http://basementshaman.com/hiprso400wag.html

^No it isn't. If you have any experience at all with electronics I reccomend ordering off of e-conolight.com

They sell ballasts, but they aren't preassembled. Meaning you would have to know how to wire a ballast, it isn't hard and all you need is an extension cord (3 prong) and a little bit of patience.

Will save you a lot of money, and allow you to get a bigger light if you need one for your area.

Red, I will tell you that in flowering the plants really don't do anything for the first 2 weeks. Plus if your light cycles have been messing up don't expect it to do much for 3, however after the initial phase of it realizing it needs to go into flowering it will start stretching and growing a LOT. Don't worry, keep going strong man.

quote:Originally posted by CarbonB:

^No it isn't. If you have any experience at all with electronics I reccomend ordering off of e-conolight.com

They sell ballasts, but they aren't preassembled. Meaning you would have to know how to wire a ballast, it isn't hard and all you need is an extension cord (3 prong) and a little bit of patience.

Will save you a lot of money, and allow you to get a bigger light if you need one for your area.

Okay, this is the bulb I'd want, right? http://tinyurl.com/yxy6wx

I can't find any ballasts on that site, though. Link?

Is the first product on this page a good deal? http://tinyurl.com/y3yc8f

Thanks.

quote:Originally posted by CarbonB:

Red, I will tell you that in flowering the plants really don't do anything for the first 2 weeks. Plus if your light cycles have been messing up don't expect it to do much for 3, however after the initial phase of it realizing it needs to go into flowering it will start stretching and growing a LOT. Don't worry, keep going strong man.

My plants have fucking shot up in the last 2 weeks, I just meant not much progress on the sex parts. So this means they should start budding soon, right?

Also, the smell is getting stronger, I have them growing in a wooden trunk and I can smell it when I walk in the room.

I'm afraid of the smell geting out of hand when it starts budding.

$200 isn't bad for a 400W HPS setup with a win. You might be able to ebay something like that though for a little less.

Oh and red, yea they will start budding soon. I suggest if you want to keep the smell down build a carbon scrubber. It basically pulls air through activated carbon to clean the smell.

My plants seemed to have matured over night, I just found a male. As far as I know the other 4 are females, I think they're already forming a tiny top bud.



Edit: So do I count today as the start of flowering or did it start 2 or 3 weeks ago when I set the lights back?

[This message has been edited by red white and jew (edited 11-27-2006).]

Just found another male, so that leaves me with 3 possiable females.

I mark it as from 2 weeks ago, since you can tell after 1 month that they have been in flower for a while, then in the second month they put on all the bud.

Well..

My plants have gotten way to big for the trunk I had them in, they where getting really root bound and I don't have room for bigger pots.

so..

I just killed them and cut off the leafs, I wouldn't have hardly got much bud anyways, but I don't really care, I learned alot from this grow.

I looked it all over, and there was just no way I could have kept the plants, I don't regret it, like I said I learned alot.

I'll start cracking some seeds tonight, I won't veg as long on this next grow.

What is the biggest pot you plan on putting them in?

2 liters cut off about 6 inces.

But it should be enuf because I'll only veg for about 2 weeks this time, and prolly let it bud for only 4 or 6 weeks.

will purposly leaving a male to fertalize and get seeds decrease the thc content any in the next generation of plants?

[This message has been edited by iceshrike (edited 11-30-2006).]

No.

2L isn't enough, and 6 weeks flower isn't doing the plant justice.

Vegging for 2 weeks? In soil would give you a plant that is probably 5 inches tall. That will yield jack shit for bud man.

You need to veg for atleast a month, and have a 2 - 3 gallon pot going into flower, and then flower for atleast 2 months. Otherwise it isn't worth it.

What is the basic needs to grow outdoors?

I. temperature

II. amount of sun light (daily)

III. amount of water (daily)

IV. fertilizer



thanks

another thing i was thinking of u know how the Indians used dead fish with growing their plants? would that work with cannabis plants? would cow shit help?

As long as it isn't freezing outside the plants should be fine, try and give the plants as much sunlight as possible until they are big enough and you want to flower them.

Just some potting soil and some water, that is all it really takes. Remember it's a weed, it can grow anywhere in almost any condition.

After Christmas I will be starting construction of my small indoor grow unit.

Dimensions are as follows;

3+~ Feet high

2+~ Feet wide

18~ Inches deep

I know its small but its my first time, only for small amounts of personal use and has to be concelable.

The small size is so the unit will fit into a wardrobe.

I plan to grow 'Top 44' - http://tinyurl.com/tgmyk

Apperently this is of short size, which im hoping will suit my grow space.

1/2, 3 at the most plants are desired.

So far, i've figured out;

Grow area - As above.

Venting - Will be done via an input and output fan, the output will be fitted with an active carbon filter.

The input fan will have a PVC tube that runs from inside the wardrobe to out side the actual wardrobe to an area near a window.

Watering/Feed - Done.

Germolation/Harvest/Curing.

The only obvious problem that remains is light, the most important one.



I do not want to spend alot of money on this project, or at least yet, as it is a trail run as such.

What would you recommend you do?

I've looked up all the forms of lighting, and Metal Halide and High Pressure Sodium seem the dominant two, although the bulb prices are no problem, the ballast and fittings on the other hand, seems rather pricey.

Thanks in advance, and good luck everyone

if i was growing hydroponically what would be the effects of pouring pure DXM into the water?



im pretty sure i read somewhere that a plant that is fed DXM will retain the DXM properties when smoked.

So im planning my outdoor grow next year. Does anyone know of any good way to irrigate? ill use a trashcan as collection tank and probably a small pump. Can someone recomend me a timer/valve opener/switch to pump the water say once or twice a week for only a couple minutes?

quote:Originally posted by brad:

What is the basic needs to grow outdoors?

I. temperature

II. amount of sun light (daily)

III. amount of water (daily)

IV. fertilizer



thanks

another thing i was thinking of u know how the Indians used dead fish with growing their plants? would that work with cannabis plants? would cow shit help?



Above freezing say above atleast 40

atleast 16 or so during veg and under 15 for flower (steadily increasing/decreasing)

Pretty much anything

same as above

YOU CAN ONLY GROW DURING THE SUMMER

even if the above conditions are met you will not be able to flower during the winter. This is because after dec 21 the light hours begin to steadily increase and wont begin to drop until june 21st. The plant will attempt toi flower right after sprouting due to there being so little light and it attempting to reproduce before winter. You can try to grow for fun, but you WILL NOT HARVEST. Unless your lucky and your plants dont begin flowering then they might survive, but you wont get a harvest until the folowing october. Of course this doesnt apply if your south of the equator where the opposite applies.

Why does everyone here think you can grow in the winter if you live in a warm climate? You MAY be able to grow lowryder as its autoflowering but you will probably get very poor results.

Hey, I wanna thank all for your info and help, this is the perfect thread for what I was looking for. Now to my questions:

The stuff I get from around where I live isn't worth growing, plus, my guys have been dry for a while, so regular bag seed is a negative. So I figure I'd order online, with thanks the APEX for all the sites. Just a few questions: Can anyone recomend a reliable one, that won't rip you off, ships to US, and uses discreet packaging? What happens if the cops see that their weed seeds, do they bust you? Anyone have info on that?

Number two: I live with my parents, and am planning to grow without their knowledge. I know that harvest and curing is a scented process, so I'll do that discreetly, but as for the growing and flowering, how much does that smell? Enough for them to notice, if my growroom was in a closed closet? Anyway to take care of that?

Thanks for any info, and if I've repeated a question I'm sorry, just bear with me and point out where the answer is.

-TyPE

quote:Originally posted by The Placebo Effect:

Number two: I live with my parents, and am planning to grow without their knowledge. I know that harvest and curing is a scented process, so I'll do that discreetly, but as for the growing and flowering, how much does that smell? Enough for them to notice, if my growroom was in a closed closet? Anyway to take care of that?

I dont know about the rest.

But;

Im going to use a carbon filter and an extraction fan, the filter gets rid of all scents apparently..

Aswell as that, ill be investing in one of those automatic air refreshers.

Do some research, it realy helps, from general drug sites to wiki.

knowledge is power, power is control.

Ive done the research in growning weed for quite awhile and got a start. I got a seed to sprout and planted it in soil with the perfect Ph level and everything, the only thing im worried about is where im growing it after it pushes aboe the ground. I have about a 3x3 foot area and about 5 feet tall covered in aluminum foil and a flourencent bulb above it, do thing this will work out good or is there any changes i should make?

http://tinyurl.com/yjllnf -pic of grow space

http://tinyurl.com/ydmn9x -another pic of it

http://tinyurl.com/y62yec -space closed off, like it would be during light cycle



EDIT:Now using a 200 W cool white bulb

http://tinyurl.com/y5kews -cup setup to start plant

any tips on anything im doing would be greatly appreciated

[This message has been edited by phour20_in_wi (edited 12-18-2006).]

get the plant close to the bulb. a 200W floro isnt really up to 3x3, i would suggest a 400W / 600W HPS or MH. MH is better for vegitative growth, HPS for flowering. Some HPS ballasts can run a MH bulb, so buy a HS ballast and it is a matter of changing the bulb.

with the floro, the amount of lumens per watt generated and the penetrative power of the light are not a patch on MH/HPS

quote:Originally posted by dr rocker:

get the plant close to the bulb. a 200W floro isnt really up to 3x3, i would suggest a 400W / 600W HPS or MH. MH is better for vegitative growth, HPS for flowering. Some HPS ballasts can run a MH bulb, so buy a HS ballast and it is a matter of changing the bulb.

with the floro, the amount of lumens per watt generated and the penetrative power of the light are not a patch on MH/HPS

Not everyone has $200+ spare for lights..

You wouldn't want to put a 400W or 600W anything in a 3x3 space either. The heat would kill you, and just trying to get the conditions to a point of "norm" would be a pain in the ass.

Fluro's can produce extremely good results. I have seen it done numerous times. Nothing wrong with them, just move the plants closer, that is all.

I would reccomend trying to scrog since you are using a fluro and then try and trim the lower bud sites to allow the plant to concentrate on getting the top buds thicker and denser.

in a 3x3 space he will have a bit of a problem if its a floro tube. granted, it might be an enviro or cfl which would fit.

the heat problems from a mh or hps would be negated by useing a cool tube (yes, more money, but you can make your own) and a fan with a filter on. running a 3x3x5 space you would only need a fan that pulls 52m3 / hour to exchange the air every 3 minutes.

it all costs money, but you have to spend to save and the more you put into things, the more you get out.

I apologize in advance if this is a stupid question...

I've got some bagseeds that I have germinated with the 'paper towel method' and the taproots have emerged. I have decided to put them in cups of soil, but my friend told me "not to water them too much because it could 'drown' the seed." Is that really something I should worry about? How much and how often should I water it?

For all your growing needs these links are the best. They taught me how to achieve 2 pounds per light of the most sticky fucken smelly pot around.

Advanced Nutrients is a company out of British Columbia who have produced the best nutrients in the world for growing weed. There the ONLY company that specificly hired scientists to perfect the nutrients for growing weed. They did this by testing in medical marijuana grow ops. No other company has the balls to say that, and the tests have shown complete dominance by advanced nutrients over the other companies. It will teach you everything you need to know to achieve your MEDICINAL! needs

Check out there growing faqs, EVERYTHING you need to know

http://www.advancednutrientsmedical.ca

online tv show visiting grow ops, and teaching you how to get 2+pounds

http://www.urbangrower.com

Hers the forums, They even have 2 payed pot growing fucken geniouses mods. ALso dozens of other pro's to answer your questions.

http://www.advancednutrientsmedical.ca/forums/

edit - heres the nutrient challenge where advanced blows the others away

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ienVv71M-rg http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vMVGfxSOMS0

hers the urbangrowers youtube channel http://www.youtube.com/profile?user=urbangrower



[This message has been edited by boozehound420 (edited 12-20-2006).]

quote:Originally posted by Magic_Hobo:

I apologize in advance if this is a stupid question...

I've got some bagseeds that I have germinated with the 'paper towel method' and the taproots have emerged. I have decided to put them in cups of soil, but my friend told me "not to water them too much because it could 'drown' the seed." Is that really something I should worry about? How much and how often should I water it?

Just keep the soil moist.

quote:Originally posted by theguybelowmeisafag:

if i was growing hydroponically what would be the effects of pouring pure DXM into the water?



im pretty sure i read somewhere that a plant that is fed DXM will retain the DXM properties when smoked.

Experiment on one plant. Don't kill yourself.

quote:Originally posted by theguybelowmeisafag:

if i was growing hydroponically what would be the effects of pouring pure DXM into the water?



im pretty sure i read somewhere that a plant that is fed DXM will retain the DXM properties when smoked.

DXM CANNOT be smoked.

just take dxm and weed when you wanna get robostoned

Sorry for posting this previously I didn't know there was now an official thread for this topic. Rarely post here and haven't even been TOTSEing since my internet connection got shut down.

SWIM planted some northern lights not long ago, in an aquarium in an ice cream gallon. They sprouted quickly then one of the leaves wilted, and then the entire plant stopped growing. It's still alive, but not growing when it should be far more mature/taller by now. Any ideas on what's wrong and how to fix it?

quote:Originally posted by switchblade089:

Sorry for posting this previously I didn't know there was now an official thread for this topic. Rarely post here and haven't even been TOTSEing since my internet connection got shut down.

SWIM planted some northern lights not long ago, in an aquarium in an ice cream gallon. They sprouted quickly then one of the leaves wilted, and then the entire plant stopped growing. It's still alive, but not growing when it should be far more mature/taller by now. Any ideas on what's wrong and how to fix it?

maybe its just a bad plant? what lights, feed and watering set up, system ect are you using? how are all the other plants doing?

sometimes, when the plant shows its first pair of leaves, the oval ones that do not have the jagged edge, these can grow a little funny before the next set of leaves comes in, the jagged ones that look like ganja leaves. this might be the case.

going to need the info i asked for above to work out what is wrong with it tho.

I have 6 really small plants, 11 days into flowering.

One of the smallest ones already has some tiny buds, but the rest aren't even showing they're sex at all.

Give it more time I s'poss.

How easy is it to find a website that's willing to send seeds to the U.S., specifically California?

My friend is writing a story about a 16 year old that orders seeds that way and he wants to know if it's believeable.

Day 13 into flowering..all the other plants still havent shown they're sex.

But the budding one is still coming along, I think it's even growing a bud from the seed leafs :/

Would it be ok to grow on a window sill? What is the smallest plant (i will probably have to keep it hidden from parents, if its on a window sill cant be too big as will have to avoid suspicion) I have heard low ryder is good? Is there anything else?

Anyone know where I can find a battery powered light of reasonable strength?

quote:Originally posted by shadow operative:

Would it be ok to grow on a window sill? What is the smallest plant (i will probably have to keep it hidden from parents, if its on a window sill cant be too big as will have to avoid suspicion) I have heard low ryder is good? Is there anything else?

I've heard that lowryder smells really strong. So unless you have it outside of your window it may make your whole house smell of pot.

EDIT: Spelling

[This message has been edited by krazy_white_kid (edited 01-03-2007).]

I'm planning on growing in a small cupoard about a square foot, will this be large enough for two low ryders, it is about a metre high (they only grow 30-50cm, so im told). I'm planning on buying a fan, some fertiliser, and for lighting i will buy flurescent tubes, im goign to cover the sides with tinfoil, will one 20 watt light be enough or do i need more or more power? Also if you live in england do you know how much this will cost? Thanks

quote:Originally posted by shadow operative:

I'm planning on growing in a small cupoard about a square foot, will this be large enough for two low ryders, it is about a metre high (they only grow 30-50cm, so im told). I'm planning on buying a fan, some fertiliser, and for lighting i will buy flurescent tubes, im goign to cover the sides with tinfoil, will one 20 watt light be enough or do i need more or more power? Also if you live in england do you know how much this will cost? Thanks

You can just buy a 45 (or at least 30) watt compact floro ,really cheap, it screws in a normal lamp. Hook up a little fan, cover the insides with foil and your set.

That's how I've always grown my pot, exept I use a wooden trunk.

where could i buy one of these?

How do you tell if the plants are female or male?

I know that one way is to wait for it to bud, but i dont want to wait that long.

So does anyone know a easier way to tell?

quote:Originally posted by shadow operative:

where could i buy one of these?

Anywhere that sells light bulbs. Or if you can't think of any of those, just try places like target, wal mart, pretty much any department store, or look for one in your house that isnt being used, but make sure it has enough watts/lumens (I think its like at least 2000 lumens per plant for a nice healthy plant).

And I know you weren't talking to me, but I just thought I'd try to help you.



[This message has been edited by krazy_white_kid (edited 01-05-2007).]

My friend is trying to figure out how to setup an indoor grow, and is looking for the best ratio of plant to time to space to lighting ratio.

Ideally my friend wants to have a couple different setups: a couple hydroponic and one soil. Hopefully this will help future grows by showing the best method, and make it harder for a fuck-up to kill everything, which is pretty important considering the investment.

Big problem is that he doesn't know how many plants he will need or what to expect as far as yield. If the flowering time is 9 weeks, does that mean in 9 weeks it will be about ready to harvest (figure at least another month for proper drying)? How does lighting effect the vegetative and fruiting cycles?

Also, is one pound per plant a pretty good expectation if everything goes right - and how much variation should someone expect?

My friend is really nervous, but this is the only thing he has felt like doing in the last four months, and is really excited about it. He is planning on having everything assembled, tested and sprouted before paying a cent in rent, so hopefully everything will go good.

He's also PC'ing mushroom jars as we speak!

[This message has been edited by tibberous (edited 01-05-2007).]

To get a pound off one plant on an indoor grow would take a very skilled grower and a very large plant.

Typically what people shoot for is 1g of weed per 1w of light. So if you have 400W of lighting, you are a pretty damn good grower if you can get 400g a grow with it. This isn't most growers though, and usually you get about .5g per watt when you are starting out, even lower.

That is still good though, 7 oz. of quality weed with 1 400W light is damn impressive. When I started out I think I got maybe 2 oz. off of 2 plants. Now I get around 3 oz. per plant and I can fit 2 - 3 plants in my particular area. That is upwards of 9 oz. if everything is optimal.

Depending on the size of the plant before it goes into flower, the strain and how well it yields, plus the light, plus ever other enviormental issue that could go wrong will effect how much you get at the end of harvest. You just have to grow, practice, perfect, and execute.

Doing all this will assure you plenty of quality bud all the time to smoke. Imagine, how long would it take you to go through 9 oz. of hydroponic sensimilia? Would take me a long time. Considering I might only smoke 4 or 5 grams in a week.

quote:Originally posted by J3bus:

How do you tell if the plants are female or male?

I know that one way is to wait for it to bud, but i dont want to wait that long.

So does anyone know a easier way to tell?

Usually a plant will tell sex after the 8th node in veg. Too bad this isn't always a sure fire method, I thought I had a female and it turned out being a male. Maybe that was due to my own incompetence, who knows. Sure fire way is to take a clone from the plant, and then after it shows roots, flower it. Put it in 12/12 light, and afterwards see what happens.

If it starts producing buds, you know you got a female, if it starts producing little balls, well you got yourself a male.

My friend spent the night heading to various stores, and has designed the first of three systems. This system is an ebb-flow system for six plants. It takes very little construction, and easily comes apart into three boxes.

Each box is 96qt, meaning over a cubic foot of area per plant and a huge reservoir for the pump. The boxes will get spray painted black to keep the mold down, and will be covered with a thick rubber shop mat to keep the Perlite in place and prevent mold growth. The plants will be started with jiffy pots. I am thinking it should flood 12 times a day, depending on how fast the water runs out.

Without a timer, lights, grow nutrients, or a light reflector, the cost breakdown looks like this:

3, 33x16x13.6 containers - $30

36x48 heavy duty shop rug, $15

24, 8qt bags of Perlite, $72

130-170 gph fountain pump, $22

2 cans spray paint, ~$5

Electrical tap, piping for the splitter - ~$5

Basically $150 before taxes. I am thinking a 400watt HPS / MH light would be good for it, since it is less than 3x3 feet.

Here is the awesome blue print my friend spent two hours drawing: http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o77/tibberous/ebb-flow-final.gif

The other setup my friend is still designing will be made from three rows of 4” pipe, with a constant stream of water running over the roots. There are a few snags in the design though, basically involving how to hold it up, how to make it portable, and how to best split 1 stream of water into three.

Lastly there should be a few grown in good old dirt with good old potting soil, as a fall-back.

Total investment will be around $2500, with between 15 and 20 plants planned for. It will take at least 1oz per plant to break even, but it will be a lot of fucking around to break even.

Let me know what you think of the setup so I can pass it along to my friend, unless that would constitute conspiracy, in which case I’ll promptly forget it =P

Also, does my lighting and flooding plan sound right?

My friend still doesn't know what to do about seeds.

As it stands, he is leaning towards Big Bud, but there are a ton of choices.

White Rino and White Russian both seem promising due to huge THC content. Russian seems to be pretty expensive, at 70eur, and might be hard to get in the US. Yield isn't really great either.

Selling something with a standout quality could also be cool - Blue Berry, Bubblegum, Purple *whatever* all could make up for lower yields with higher prices and greater want.

There is white widow too, which is pretty well priced, and PPP, and AK which I remember being more popular than it is now.

And this all assumes that he doesn't mess with feminized seeds, as was the advice given in BLTC.

=/

Could some one tell me how my plants should look at 17 days of flowering?

All they're doing is showing they're sex (all females btw )

..Exept for this one plant, I'm not sure about it. I think it's deformed or some shit, it had two sets of leafs , the top set died off a while back for no reason, so now it only has one set of leafs.

Around day 10 of flowering (while the other plants where doing nothing) it started growing branch things at both the bud sites and it has a bunch of really really odd looking leafs growing from them. And it's not rapidly growing like buds.

With all the other plants I've seen the buds start out as cluster of hairs.

And day 10 of flowering is to soon to be forming buds, since the other plants wheren't even showing sex at all.

Could these be buds? Or should I just kill this plant? I know the other 4 are females, but I don't know about this one..

I have a plant growing in a Campbell's soup can. (I know, it was a pretty terrible idea)...

and it is getting pretty big, how tall should it be when I try to transplant it into a larger pot? What would be the best way to transplant it?

I'm not an expert, but since it is currently in a soup can, I'll give my advice.

I think your biggest problem will be the lip of the can, and since the plants roots are only going to get bigger, I'd recommend transplanting it asap. Find a pot the size you plan on it getting, and mix up some good soil. I can't comment first hand, but a video on youtube recommended something like %60 potting soil, %15 perlite, %10 worm casings, %10 masons sand and %5 premix. In fact, if your on cable, the youtube video's will give you a pretty good idea all around.

Use another soup can to make sure your new hole is the perfect size. Let the plant dry out enough that it doesn't want to clump in the can but not so dry it crumbles. Then just turn it upside down, pat it out, and dump it in your new hole. Only other way to do it would be to get the soil pretty well saturated then cut the can apart with tin snips or a dremmel, but if your going to go that route I'd just use tin snips and watch my fingers, since anything that doesn't pull the steel away from the can when cutting will end up cutting some distance into the dirt and possibly the roots.

I killed my deformed plant because I didn't want to risk it being male (it was my smallest plant anyways)

Last night I found a hermi . It was the biggest, stinkiest plant too. Smoked the leavs and got a pretty good buzz. Fucking shame it was a hermi, It was already forming a little top bud.

Now I'm left with 3 females, 20 days in flowering..no buds. They're not even showing sex on every node yet.

What the Fuck and I doing wrong?!



Edit: Could someone give me some info on 12/12 sprouting? I can't even get shit on google.

[This message has been edited by red white and jew (edited 01-09-2007).]

well i fucked up and planted three seeds in one pot and now i have 3 seedlings growing relatively close together.. im going to let them get a little stronger and then im going to transplant then into their own buckets.

am i fucked? or can i seperate them somehow?

edit: i am thinking of just growing them all together in one giant bucket.. any downsides to that?

[This message has been edited by earth59x (edited 01-10-2007).]

quote:Originally posted by earth59x:

well i fucked up and planted three seeds in one pot and now i have 3 seedlings growing relatively close together.. im going to let them get a little stronger and then im going to transplant then into their own buckets.

am i fucked? or can i seperate them somehow?

edit: i am thinking of just growing them all together in one giant bucket.. any downsides to that?



Your best bet would be to put them in they're own container before the roots get to long and tangle.



Marijuana doesn't really like to be grown together like that, but that's how my buddy does it. If you do decide to grow them together, I would suggest you do put them in one giant bucket, they should be fine.

Might help if you cut back on veg a little, so the roots don't grow as deep.

[This message has been edited by red white and jew (edited 01-10-2007).]

quote:Originally posted by red white and jew:

I killed my deformed plant because I didn't want to risk it being male (it was my smallest plant anyways)

Last night I found a hermi . It was the biggest, stinkiest plant too. Smoked the leavs and got a pretty good buzz. Fucking shame it was a hermi, It was already forming a little top bud.

Now I'm left with 3 females, 20 days in flowering..no buds. They're not even showing sex on every node yet.

What the Fuck and I doing wrong?!



Edit: Could someone give me some info on 12/12 sprouting? I can't even get shit on google.



You have to give specifics if you want anyone to help you. 17 days into flower isn't a big deal, but there are a lot of reasons that can attest to slow flowering. Light leaks is a big issue with slowing down flowering. Make sure the area you have your plants in is completely dark. Also are your plants showing any deficiencies?

To tibberous: Your friend sounds like he spent enough time researching and planning out his grow. Which is a very good idea. However, $2500 is a lot of money to spend on your first grow setup. I would of reccomended just a simple bubbler system. Very cheap and very effective.

Also, you are torn between what strain to use. Trust me man, if you grow your shit right, it doesn't really matter what strain. They are all good. I however would suggest starting with some bagseed and seeing how well each system works. You don't want to waste $100 worth of seeds. Make sure your shit works with free shit, rather then making sure it works by throwing money at it.

Go buy a $20 worth of bud, some schwag, and grab all the fucking seeds out, pop all of them, get a few mothers going, clone everything, do some runs. See what you come up with.

quote:Originally posted by CarbonB:



Go buy a $20 worth of bud, some schwag, and grab all the fucking seeds out, pop all of them, get a few mothers going, clone everything, do some runs. See what you come up with.

Hit up the Doc and get some Nirvana seeds. $26 for a 10 pack shipped. I'd rather spend the $2.60 a seed to ensure good genetics. You could go with Northern Lights- short, very forgiving, spider-mite resistant, good yield, and a short flower time.

^Nirvana is a great concept for cheap seeds for a new grower. However, $20 for weed and seeds? How can you go wrong?

I am sure that the genetics in schwag could easily outperform some of the shit I have grown from Nirvana. Not saying the plants don't produce, you get lucky every now and then and with 20 seeds I bet you could find 2 or 3 great phenos.

So, my advice is to practice with schwag seeds, and then buy some quality genetics.

Anyone got some tips for transplanting from the soup can to a pot?

I don't want to fuck up and kill my plant.

^Just pull it out, try to not cause a lot of trauma to the roots. After you transplant the plant will go into a state of "shock". This just means it will stop growing for a few weeks, it is good to hit it with some nutrients a day or two after the transplant to make sure that it starts growing the roots as soon as possible and continues it's growth.

swim has three mary j plants growing... and the he needs to know if the plants should be watered directly on the leaves and in the soil.. because the plants just sprouted couple days ago... or just always around the "trunk" of the plant??

Thanks

Cory

Just water around the stem, since they are seedlings you don't want to water them too much, just make sure that the soil stays moist and wait till the top soil goes dry before you water again.

quote:Originally posted by Magic_Hobo:

Anyone got some tips for transplanting from the soup can to a pot?

I don't want to fuck up and kill my plant.

Just transplant them and water with B52

So I found a nice place to grow in the spring. It's a little hollowed out area in the middle of a dense area of woods.

The only problem is, 90% of the surrounding trees are evergreen. I've heard the needles mess up the soil.

Can I plant here and still expect a normal growth?

Let us remember that it is a weed. You know how weeds grow, they really don't need all this scientific bullshit. They will grow no matter what.

Even though the needles might mess up the shovel, what is the harm in taking a shovel out there and digging up the area? Maybe even putting down some soil? Remove the top layer and put down a couple pounds of soil? Even if you don't do that, I think you should plant there and just see what happens.

Is this a DIY?

quote:Originally posted by niggersexual:

Is this a DIY?

Are you a retard?

quote:Originally posted by CarbonB:

Let us remember that it is a weed. You know how weeds grow, they really don't need all this scientific bullshit. They will grow no matter what.

Even though the needles might mess up the shovel, what is the harm in taking a shovel out there and digging up the area? Maybe even putting down some soil? Remove the top layer and put down a couple pounds of soil? Even if you don't do that, I think you should plant there and just see what happens.

Thanks. I'll probably use some shwag seeds on it just to see if it'll do anything

I think pine needles and the sort raise the ph. I guess you could toss out a bit of lime to counteract them.

pine needles are acidic and so lower the PH. i would test the PH of the soil and then decide on whether to lime or not, and retest the soil every other month.

Yep, I just had it backwards

Ok, I just had a successful and hypothetical Harvest from the 2 plants I grew indoors. I got 4 ounces and then some from the first plant and then about 3 and a little over a half ounces from the second plant. I also made finger hash and it fucking kicked my ass hardcore!

Its a nice Indica strain, and it smells REALLY earthy and Piney.

What is the best way to cure it? I was going to hang it up outside or in my closet, but option isnt available currently.

(Hypothetically, of course)



[This message has been edited by DEADBEATDAD (edited 01-30-2007).]

Could anyone tell me what would be the appropriate lighting for a 2ftx3ft grow room, about 1 square foot per plant, and each plant growing no more than 1 1/2 to 2 ft high. The budget is low, about 75$. I was thinking 4 3ft long flourescants but i know that wouldnt be enough for veging and flowering, anyone else have an idea of what kind of light to get, thanks.

bump

So, SWIM hypothetically has a few dozen plants going and finds it time to transplant into larger seperate pots and has aquired large metal milk cans from his work (a dairy farm) and was wondering if it is safe to grow marijuana in a metal pot.

I know it seems safe in common sense but i always read to plant in plastic or clay so i wasnt sure if the metal put off some sort of bad ph or anything for the soil/plant.

http://tinyurl.com/2m8rlx

Any reason why this and it's MH cousin couldn't be used for our purposes?

Is buying seeds illegal on the interweb?

Also, how does an "unregistered" poster post?

budroots, get a 400w sodium lamp, and in 2x3 foot, go for 4 plants as they could get bushy as fuck and push each other other.

i wouldnt grow in a metal container, even tho it would be catering grade metal and shouldnt react in the short term, after a couple of weeks of having soil in, the metal will start to rust and have an impact on the soil and thus the plant, and you do not know how any nutrients are going to react with metal.

I have my lowrider seeds and also a few white widow seeds, due to parents i will have to plant outdoors, i am planning to plant outside in a wooded area near a river, very secluded, about the start of April as it is lowrider it should grow fairly easily, obviously i will need to change the compost and water it but will i need to do much else before the harvest? As for the white widow is there any chance of it surviving being grown outdoors?

quote:Originally posted by shadow operative:

As for the white widow is there any chance of it surviving being grown outdoors?

..It's fucking weed dude, it'll grow pretty damn much anywhere.. the question you should be asking is how the quality will be if grown outdoors. Widow will certainly do better in controlled conditions, but I've known a few people who have grown it outdoors with success. Infact, a friend of mine moved and had some weed that STRONGLY resembled white widow in EVERY manner growing in the backyard of his new place - and that place hadn't been inhabited for quite a few months, so obviously it does okay outside - but that would also depend on where you live. The move in to whitewidow property was a spot in southern Missouri.

As to what you should do for prepping of the lowrider - it's a fairly hardy strain, so little more than just changing the makeup of the dirt to that of a more nutrient rich storebought or homemmade type. Watering is obvious, but don't plant too near the river - the water level underground might be higher than what the river sits at, so you might accidentily flood your plants if you plant too closeley. Aside from that, occasional fertilization wouldn't hurt, but if it's near a river nutrients are probably all in the soil, and will get absorbed fairly well if your plant's roots leave what you prepared for it, which is most likely. Again, don't plant too near the river.. you never know when some stoner boyscouts might happen your way in a canoe, or worse, an off duty cop in his motorboat.

About germinating lowryder, would it be ok if i just planted the seeds in damp soil? I am told be some people that this is better than the paper towel method.

start it off in some seedling compost. if you start it in soil you have dug up from your garden, it could be too harsh for it, ir too compact, bad water retention, clay ect. i only start things off in paper towels if its not going to be grown in soil

I germinated a few seeds by putting them in a cup of water they all germinated i have now planted them in compost in small pots about half an inch deep, how long will it take for the plants grow throught he soil.

quote:Originally posted by CarbonB:

[BI am sure that the genetics in schwag could easily outperform some of the shit I have grown from Nirvana. Not saying the plants don't produce, you get lucky every now and then and with 20 seeds I bet you could find 2 or 3 great phenos.[/B]

^QFT - SWI_Marihuana has had many high yeilding seedless nuggets with seeds I collected from mids.

(Post 69 for me)

Me and My friend desided to grow recently, and we have basically started the early stages:

Im growing the plants in my closet about 3' by 4.5'. There is already a 150w bolb in there but im thinking we are going to need another one.

The weed itself is being grown in a mini green house seed starter as for right now. Problem is i dont really know how long they need to stay in there before they need to be repoted. In each one of the small squares i put "Miricle Grow's Moisture control soil" (which includes some form of plant food). And placed 2 seeds in the square under the dirt. So in total i have 36 seeds under the soil.

I plan on either putting a small simple fan and airing the closet out, or just opening the closet and flushing it out for an hour or so each day. I also plan on putting an air fresher inside to keep the smell back and a lock on the closet itself to keep people out.

There are a few things/problems i have to deal with. Considering that i only have 6 large pots that i want to wait till i know they are female for sure before entering. Is there anyway to know before removing them from the seed starter (yes ive seen pictures on what males and females look like, what im askin is that will the signs show that early). Will 6 plants even fit in a closet like that? The next question is going to sound soo retarded but ive looked about ever where and didnt find any info. After about 3 months and its time for the harvest, about how much weed will it have generated, AND after i harvest the weed do i leave the plant growing or start on a new one? Once a plant creates a harvest will it create more, and if so how long will it take until the next harvest?

Any Advise or Recommendations would be great please. Remmember that im completely new at this and just trying it out for fun (It only cost us 40 for supplies).

Thanks

I have 2 18 foot rope/tube lights.

there really flexible but the lights appear to be 1000's of little lights (LED's?)

would this be of any use to grow weed? because the flexlibility, low heat, and low cost, are all big +'s

I just wanna know if the light output would be nearly enough or if I would need about 50 of theese to make it work

alright let me start off by saying that I'm sure many of the questions I am about to ask have already been answered but, I really am pressed on time at the moment so thats not an option. I apologize if this upsets anyone:

1. I two seed soaking in a glass jar for a little over a week and they started to sprout roots where should I go from here? Should I immediatley put the seeds in soil or in a baggy w/ a paper towel by my window?

-considering I plant the seeds in soil-

2. I am planning on growing indoors. Will a 40watt bulb from my lava lamp suffice until i can get something better?

3. I am worried about the heat that the bulb creates how far should I position it above the plant?

p.s. the roots are under about half an inch

I got bored and wrote this. Please point out any mistakes.

What you will need:

Seeds

Pill bottle or container for seeds

Silica packet (optional)

Paper towel

Bottled drinking water

Tupperware sandwich container (or something like it)

Dixi, or Syrofoam cup

Pencil

Tweezers

Black Plastic or Mulch (optional)

Magnifying glass (Optional)

Glass jars

Paper grocery bags

Gardening equipment (shovel, hoe, ect)

The first step to growing marijuana is of course, seeds. Were can you get seeds? Loads of places. I’m going to assume you’re growing for the first, I would recommend using what is called “bagseed”, or the seeds you might find in bag of low quality bud. (If you’re lucky, you will find a seed in some top grade product). Start collecting seeds a month or two before you want to start growing. You can keep seeds for years if you store them properly. The ideal conditions for storing seeds are in a dry, cool environment. I personally store mine in a pill bottle with a silica gel packet (the little bag you might find in a bag for beef jerky or something), which absorbs the moisture. If you are confident, or have a bit of extra money to spend, you can buy marijuana seeds online. These are usually of higher quality, and this way you know what strains your getting and you can choose the strain ideal for your growing environment.

The next step is finding a suitable location to grow. This should be away from any paths, nature trails, or houses. Try to find a small clearing, and remember that your plants are going to need direct sunlight. Ideally, there might be a pond, or stream nearby so you don’t have to carry water in. Clear all roots and shrubs in about a 4x4 foot area, and use a shovel to turn the dirt over and loosen everything up. If you have money to spend, you can invest in a sack of foxfarm nutrient soil, and mixing that in with the soil that’s there. You can buy this at most gardening stores.

Now you have your plot ready, and your seeds, its time for germination. Get your seeds, and dump them into a cup of warm water. Swish it around for a bit. Take all the floaters, and set them on a piece of paper towel. Take the ones that sunk, and toss them. Take 2 sheets of paper towel, and fold them up in half, then in half the other way. Pour your distilled/pure water over them, and squeeze the excess water out. The towel should be damp, but not dripping. Lay these sheets in the bottom of a Tupperware sandwich container. Get one more sheet of paper towel and fold it up the same. Pour water over it, and then squeeze it out just like before. Lay your seeds on the bottom two layers of paper towel, and put the third payer on top of the seeds. Put the lid on the container, and put it somewhere warm. On top of a hot water tank, or if you have an old computer monitor you can put it on there and leave the monitor on all the time. Leave it for 24 hours. Get a Dixi cup, or Styrofoam coffee cup and fill it with soil. Poke a few holes in the bottom, and run some water through it so the soils quite damp (if you bought foxfarm or other soil, use some of that). Take the lid off your Tupperware container, and gently lift up the top layer of paper towel. If you see any seeds that have sprouted, get your cup filled with your damp soil, and use the sharp end of a pencil to make a hole about 2cms deep. Get your tweezers and CAREFULLY, without touching or breaking the little sprout set the seedling in the soil SPROUT DOWN. Flick soil over the hole so its covered, but don’t pack it down. Place these cups in a warm sunny place (preferable at your grow location) and keep an eye on them, making sure they are kept damp.

When the seedlings are about 2-3cms out of the soil, its time to plant them in the earth. Squeeze around the sides of the cup so the soil gets loose and you can tip out the entire thing. Dig a hole about the size of the cup, and plop it in. smooth down the soil around it, and water all around the seedling. Keep an eye on your baby/babies and make sure they never dry out. Weed around the marijuana plant so it doesn’t have to fight other grass or weeds for survival. When the plant is around 6 inches tall, you can mulch around it with tree leaves (coniferous only, no needles), grass cuttings, or you can get some black plastic from a garbage bag or something and spread it out around your plant in a circle to keep the moisture in, and the unwanted weeds down. Mulching or using black plastic is great, because you don’t have to weed, and you don’t have to water nearly as much. Just put a few fingers through the mulch/under the plastic and make sure it stays damp.

From this point until harvest, you don’t HAVE to do anything. To keep nasty bugs off, grind up some garlic and soak in water. Then spray this on your plant. Usually I don’t bother sexing, I just let nature do its job. If you are desperate for more buds, search google.com or something for “Marijuana Sexing” and pull up the males.

In North America, harvest time is usually around later August, or early September assuming you planted on 4/20 (April 20th). The best way to check if your ready to harvest is to get a high powered magnifying glass, and looking at the buds. If the trichomes (little crystals on the buds) are a milky, cloudy colour your ready.

Now to dry and cure your bud. First, pull the plant up roots and hang it upside down for 24 hours. Then put each plant in a paper grocery bag with the top open for few days or until the leaves feel dry. Take the big leaves off, and put them in a container with a lid. They can be used for hash oil, or cannabutter later. Take what’s left, and trim the leaves from the buds with some nail scissors. Put the leaves you trimmed off into a separate jar or container. Now, get as many canning/jam jars as you need and put the trimmed buds in, and close the lid. Every day for a few weeks open it up and shape the buds around. Be careful not to pack the leaves in tightly, you want air to reach all the leaves to prevent mold.

The longer you let the buds cure, they batter they’ll be to smoke.

*Rem

I went to buy a UV lamp but there are two types of UV light UV A and UV B he said UV A would be best for growing tomato plants. Which would be best for weed or would they both work?

the same one as growing tomatoes.

Around when should you plant outdoors in Chicago?

when you get at least 14 hours of good daylight and its not going to be frosty no more.



am i right in thinking in chicago its cold as fuck in winter and damn hot in summer?

I have 3 questions

1.Lets say in mid April/ early may i started to grow some seeds indoors and transfer them outdoors in late may/ early June. With watering and fertilizing would these plants be ready from august to October ( i guess that depends on the strain)?

2. (this is a loser question) Hash can be made with any strain of plants?

3. When growing outdoors is odor a big factor?

thanks

Q1 depends on strain, post the strain or do research.

Q2 Yes.

Q3 Smell? What? No way, unless your smelling some poison gas or something.

If anyone is looking for seeds get low ryder,they require no work, and are quick growing, I planted one outside two weeks ago and it is already about 5-10 inches, will post pictures soon. I live in the UK as well and technically its still winter here but its growing fine.

i'm considering Durban skunk or northern lights?

Durban skunk says early October. . .

I think five months should be sufficient, do research, why do you want to transfer them outdoors? if parents are an issue surely you would start them outdoors? I'd recommend lowryder, especially if you are in experienced.

quote:Originally posted by dr rocker:

when you get at least 14 hours of good daylight and its not going to be frosty no more.



am i right in thinking in chicago its cold as fuck in winter and damn hot in summer?

It's pretty cold in the winter, and pretty hot in the summer, but it usually doesn't get below -10 or above 100. (Fahrenheit, of course.)

I'm keeping it ghetto style. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v280/Jabronyo/DSC00287a.jpg

tin foil that box up

quote:Originally posted by shadow operative:

tin foil that box up

Actually, use mylar if you can.

Tell us how that works out.

quote:Originally posted by DonJabronyo:

I'm keeping it ghetto style. htt p://img.ph otobucket.com/albums/v280/Jabronyo/DSC00287a.jpg (http: //img.phot obucket.co m/albums/v 280/Jabron yo/DSC0028 7a.jpg)



Are you moving outside or keeping it in there the whole time? You're going to have to do some Low Stress Train them if you're keeping them in there and want a decent yield...

Fuck the link, just go to grasscity, absolute beginners and find it.



[This message has been edited by krazy_white_kid (edited 02-28-2007).]

quote:Originally posted by DonJabronyo:

I'm keeping it ghetto style. htt p://img.ph otobucket.com/albums/v280/Jabronyo/DSC00287a.jpg (http: //img.phot obucket.co m/albums/v 280/Jabron yo/DSC0028 7a.jpg)

That's exactly how I grow. Exept I cover the insides of my wooden trunk in foil, and use a 42 watt compact floro.

A little update

I've been working on a few different grow rooms and have built up a healthy amount of strains now, no pics at the moment but when I get a chance the little beauties will be photographed in all their splendour.

Strains being grown:

www.femaleseeds.nl (http://www.femaleseeds.nl)

Grapefruit

C99

Grapefruit x Northern Lights

Northern Lights

www.sensiseeds.com (http://www.sensiseeds.com)

White Label White Skunk

Skunk #1

Sensi Skunk

Double Gum

White Widow

www.somaseeds.nl (http://www.somaseeds.nl)

NYCD

G13 x Haze x NYCD

On the way we have Sensi Star from Paradise Seeds, SAGE from THSeeds, Passion #1 from Dutch Passion, KC33 from KC Brains, Early Girl from Sensi and Early Misty from Nirvana.

There'll be lots of crossing with grapefruit, sage, sensi star, c99 and nycd so there might be some spare seeds later on this year for any interested parties.

Good luck to all and everyone growing.

i will be planting 18 plants this year along powerlines and in random clearings in the woods.

These are the strains i have available:

skunk #1, Pure Power Plant, Haze skunk, Ice, FruitBowl, Durban Poision X Skunk #1, some seed that my friend grew in MN, and some bag seed.

I havent decided the quantity i will grow of each, but probably more skunk 1 than anything because i have about 30 seeds out of approx 55 total.

EDIT: cylyryx, do you have aim? mine is xxxxxx, you should IM me

EDIT2: On second thought, Email me at muuvaihzxkje@mailinator.com

[This message has been edited by gunjah (edited 03-03-2007).]

email sent.

You growing them all outside or some in and some out?

crap that didnt work, just IM me at xxxxx when you get the chance

[This message has been edited by gunjah (edited 03-05-2007).]

I don't do instant messaging. You can always put @hotmail.com after my username and get me there.

quote:Originally posted by gunjah:

i will be planting 18 plants this year along powerlines and in random clearings in the woods.





I thought about growing along power lines, but I'm unsure about the traffic. Does the city/county cut the grass....or the closest land owner?

I noticed some nice clear places around some powerlines, but I don't want some punk pulling my plants.

quote:Originally posted by squeegee:



I thought about growing along power lines, but I'm unsure about the traffic. Does the city/county cut the grass....or the closest land owner?

I noticed some nice clear places around some powerlines, but I don't want some punk pulling my plants.

Generally, you will need to know the area well. Find powerlines that are overgrown and plant off the main path and away from the towers (my problem, but i learned my lesson). The main reason i have to plant of the lines is that they are the only area around here thats not wetland, and have full sun thats not a development. Check out google earth for spotting sites. Im thinking of growing in a big pricker patch buts its gunna be such a pain to plant. Just remember, the harder it is for the grower, the less likely the chance that theyll be taken.

quote:Originally posted by squeegee:



I thought about growing along power lines, but I'm unsure about the traffic. Does the city/county cut the grass....or the closest land owner?

I noticed some nice clear places around some powerlines, but I don't want some punk pulling my plants.

Not worth the risk in my opinion, grow in a park, a little of the beaten track, the council cut grass around power lines in the uk.

Bump because UBB eated it.

This year a reptile I know is growing outdoors in several spots. He's transfering 40 gallons of top quality zoo compost per plant. He is going to have 2 plants per site. The clones will be 1ft-2ft when they are put into the ground, the holes are already dug and are 4ft wide and 2.5ft deep. The strains the reptile decided to choose were:

Mandala Speed Queen -full indica

Mandala HashBerry -full indica

NL x Sensi Star -full indica

Durban Poison x Purple Power -full sativa

I'm guessing the indica's will be ready at around early september and the sativas at late october.

The reptile serpent said he can get 25oz per plant tops using the same setup, organic russian comfey fert and vigorous low stress straining ie. Pinching the first set of leaves at the top of your plant to produce 2 shoots, this is easily the cheapest way to get more bud.

The sweet thing about Speed Queen is she will be ready before anyone else, and has a sweet pink phenotype.

http://tinyurl.com/2qvekr http://tinyurl.com/2syu7k

The lizard was nice enough to show me what he did last year, the serpent said he yielded 26 oz from one plant alone.

http://tinyurl.com/3ymorb

Perhaps someone can give me some pointers.

Cab: 30"(H) x 30"(W) x 40"(L)

Seeds: 10 Northern Lights Indica

Light: 70W HPS Security light

Exhaust: 2x 120mm 55cfm computer fans

Intake: Passive

Veg: 3-4 plants on 24/0 under the 70W HPS using LST

Flower: Not sure...

Electricity is limiting me; the bill can't increase by more than $10 per month. I have a long cab, so I was thinking I could get 2 more 70W HPS security lights and hang 3 lights in a row for flowering because my cab is long. Or would a single 250W HPS be more efficient? Does anyone have any ideas to cut back on electricity usage?

where should I get nutrients for a hydroponic system? I want to know how to get nutrients from a plant store or something, not off the internet. basically easially obtainable stuff. Oh, and could I just put goldfish in with my plants for fertilizer If I use a filter to get out the ammonia? This is probably a dumb idea and wont work but whatever.

quote:Originally posted by greesyhamburger:

where should I get nutrients for a hydroponic system? I want to know how to get nutrients from a plant store or something, not off the internet. basically easially obtainable stuff. Oh, and could I just put goldfish in with my plants for fertilizer If I use a filter to get out the ammonia? This is probably a dumb idea and wont work but whatever.

um what? You want to use goldfish for fertilizer? Just look in your phone book for hydroponic/gardening. Or do an online search. Or listen to ads, I hear one on the radio all the time. Any reason you can order online? Buy the nutes wherever you bought the hydroponic equipment.

EDIT: cant*

[This message has been edited by gunjah (edited 03-13-2007).]

quote:Originally posted by gunjah:

um what? You want to use goldfish for fertilizer?

Surely you remember the elementary school history passages concerning native agricultural methods which said that Squanto planted a fish next to each of his squash plants...!