After months of studying totse, rhodium, and other sources, swim started his first dream. Most of the components of this E/I/RP dream came together fairly well after a few tries.

The part that didn't look so good was the E extraction. Swim attempted the TCE/JD extraction method on a box of 96 30mg red hots from Target. The problem is that the final crystals are slightly orange, slightly waxy, and have a slight smell of an organic solvent.

Perhaps the orange tint is because not quite all the red coating was removed. The waxiness and smell are a little disturbing though. The final crystals were allowed to dry for two days, so swim thinks that leftover denatured alcohol is not the problem. Swim also verified that the denatured alcohol does not leave any residue when allowed to evaporate.

Any suggestion? Should swim worry about this or just go ahead with the main reaction? If this is very bad, should swim do an acid-base extraction to clean up the orange stuff?

Swim thanks you for any advice and also thanks totse in general for the education leading up to this.

Well orange here sounds like the coating is still leaving a hint of is presence.

If the crystaline structures of the pseudo is sparkly and the pinwheels are there remember how it looked and decide if it's properly prepared pseudo.



Got any ice-cold acetone?!

Use it and see if these waxy textures and orange hues don't leave with the tone.

Pinwheels and sparkly crystals mean go.

And where meaning where they you can't miss not that they are somewhat present.



Grab some tone and decant a couple times.

Good luck.



Jam.

Swim's crystals did seem to be sparkly and pinwheel shaped, so maybe just a quick rinse with cold acetone is all it needs.

Speaking of acetone, I have read a few times that this solvent should be dried before using. Do you feel that is important? And if so, do you have any tips on drying? The technique I have heard is to bake epsom salts at 400F for 2 hours and then throw chunks of that into the container of acetone. The only problem is that some powdered epsom salt may end up getting poured along with the acetone.

Thanks for the advice.

I would cause a a bunch of commotion as to if I was to give my humble opinion on the matter.

My answer is it only matters in Summer.

Winter months are where the inside gets dry from the heater's effect on the immediate environment.

Hell man if it's too much to fuck with then to Hell with it.

You lose more gassing with hydrochloric acid in my book than any other step in the song and dance.

I use the good-ole quar Old Milwakee wide mouth with sulphuric acid and pickling salt and a microwavable baby nipple with a 1/4 OD tubing with a bit of cotton to catch any spalsh ups and it works fine for me.

Also, on the end of the tubing is my aereator rock for aquariums so as to emit thousands of puffs of smoke to effeciently grace the non-polar.



But this all my humble opinionman.



To each his own.



Reckon you'll figure what your own is going to be.

Jam.

Gordon853, your problem does sound like the coating from the pills, a few good acetone washes should fix you right up. A word of advice, to get the best results with the washes make sure that the E is run through a fine grade shive before the washes. The reason for this is to allow every molecule of the E to get the maximum exposure possible to the acetone. Also, Acetone DOES CONTAIN A CERTAIN AMOUNT OF WATER! Not only that but E will dissolve in both water AND acetone, even though acetone’s ability to absorb E is not as great as water. This being said you should always dry your acetone!

Epson salts IS one way to remove water from acetone but NOT the only way, SWID uses regular table salts. He will take a quart jar, put about an 1” to and 1 ½” of regular table salt in the bottom and then fill it the rest of the way with acetone and shake the hell out of it. SWID then sets the jar aside and allows a day for ALL of the salt that’s suspended in the solution to settle to the bottom. Now acetone IS NOT soluble in salt BUT WATER IS and the water will be absorbed by the salt and forced to the bottom with it. After all the salt has settled SWID will then CAREFULLY siphon off the acetone through a filter into a different jar so as not to disturb the salt or get any of that salt/water mixture in with my dry acetone. Some SWID's even go through the whole process a second time further drying the acetone. SWID will then put his acetone in the freezer and that’s where it stays until he uses it. Dry AND cold acetone will absorb very little E, but it will absorb some. SWID finds this method of drying much easier than cooking Epson salts in the oven and then going through the drying process



When SWID washes his E he will make sure that it is a very fine power, hence the need for running through fine shive, and he will cover the E in approximately 4 times its volume with acetone. This mixture he stirs for a few minutes, then allows to set for a few minutes until ther is no more noticable powder floating in the acetone and then he will drain off the acetone into a jar, seal this and place in the freezer. At some point in the process, when SWID realizes that he will not have to wash anymore E, he will take the contents of the jar from the freezer and pour into a shallow Pyrex dish (or equivalent) and let evaporate. He will take the powder that is left after evaporation and dissolve this in denatured alcohol, let this evaporate and then wash the resulting powder in acetone once again, there by retrieving most of the E that dose manage to be absorbed by the acetone. SWID DOES NOT LIKE TO WASTE ANYTHING!

One more note, I don’t care where you read it or who told you that Denatured alcohol doesn’t leave a residue because THEY ARE DEAD WRONG! If you don’t believe me then take some of your meth after you have finished you work up and dissolve into D. Alcohol, evaporate this, as you usually would and then, instead of washing with acetone to remove this residue, take the meth via IV. Guess what, you will then become a firm believer that D. Alcohol DOES LEAVE A RESIDUE! GURANTEED!!

not that it matters now but red hots suck, lol swim had problems every time but he dont use them no mo due to price and aggrevasion, as you can see swim needs to go back to english class, he finds it easier to use any other kind but those, but if you master it and get the hang of it than go for it my friend

That table salt drying method does sound nice and simple.

DarkSky, do you think that the residue left from denatured alcohol makes it a bad choice for use in the TCE/JD pseudo extraction? Would you recommend something in its place?

After the acetone wash the result is only slightly improved. I will probably try TCE/JD on a batch of 120mg 12-hours. It will be interesting to see whether I get similar problems or whether I learn the lesson to avoid red hots.

Thanks again folks for the words of wisdom. I won't give up!