took match stricker and put it in jar with acetone shoke it ect. right now the tone is cloudy with specks of brown (assuming its rp)and cardboard what should. isn't the tone supposed to be maroon.what should i do

do this... siphon off the tone, save it. get some hot water, almost boiling and pour it on the strike pads. shake it good. wait 10-15 minutes. shake it good again. look at the pads. they should now be almost barren of any RP, if not shake hard again. after a few shakes they WILL be barren of any RP. in fact they will look like they never had any on them. let it settle out. the water will NOT clear up so just let the heavy solids settle and siphon off the water, save it in another jar. pour the tone back in and start your cleaning process as normal. the water you siphoned off will settle out again after 10 hours or so and you will be able to pour that off and get a bit more RP from the bottom of tht jar as well. when using the hot water soak it removes the RP TOTALLY however it does cause alot of paper pulp to be collected as well. when using hot water you absolutly MUST give the RP a muriatic wash. SWIM recomends boiling the RP in a flask on a hot plate (outside of course) for 5 to 10 min. if thats not possible then let it soak for 24 hours in the muriatic. this will insure that all the paper pulp and fibres are gone.

make sure you get that clean as possible...even if you think its clean, clean again...it hindered swims last dream and the I2..lesson learned...that goes for all percursers

quote:it hindered swims last dream and the I2..lesson learned...that goes for all percursers<----He ain't just whistling Dixie!!

Here-Here to My bros Wicked and Jam, swirl has 2 stashes of used rp going at all times. That way 1 can be in "use" while the other is re-cleaning. This doesn't count what is being saved up new, until the right amount is there.

ole lady claims if swirl would clean hobby area and do his "chores" as anal as he is bout pre and post cleaning his chilli and keeping the "kitchen" pristene, then home place would be sparkeling clean.

As has been stated more times than can be counted> If you think it is clean then clean it some more!

Later, 46

swim dream went to hell to, ina hurry and it looked good, but in the end swims colemans (given to swim ), was tinted blue, lyed, pulled nothin, lyed, pulled, notta... 4 times notta, dryed colemans, notta, swim thinks its there in water layer, but to awake to play in a dream. swim didnt have dry io, but it wasent soakin either but it was from tin 2%, had 7 grams, but guess it was moister weight. 7 g's of suse, left it in oven on low, low. but woke 3 hrs later n it was tinted yellow, grrrr.

washed rp enough with tone n hot dh2o. it looks good, and have alot ( given 30 g's or so or mb-rp ) rp was soakin in somethin smelly, swim filtered it, dryed in oven, tone washed it 2 or 3 times, gonna wash it again anyway, it is a dream!!!

swim even washed tin cry io in same jar pourin off, addin ice cold dh2o, swirled n poured off, finally filtered n squashed, twisted, ( in dark of course) and put in filter ina jar with oven dried epsons, only sat there 5 hrs or so before use.

swim started with 4,7,7 an only added a drop or two ( with dropper ) drops of dh2o.

it kicked off ok, controled it with cold water bath, did suse, io, chill while gettin rp set up ( min or 2 ), then added rp, mixed, heatin with body temp, let it kick a while, no smoke ( no heavy, light mist action) put on 150 to 175 heat, for 3 more hrs or so,,total of 3 1/2 or so.added small amount of hot, hot dh2o, boiled for 5 min, rp settell'ed right out, smelled good, filtered rp out, added some colemans, lyed by eye as the meter given to dream didnt move a bit, tested it on acid (muratic) no movement, bumper of course, did a pull , tryed a gassin while nother pull waited, notta,,, could be the damn muratic swim guess.

hit it with lye till close to a lock, pulled , gassed, notta, each pull was a blue tint,,, never seen that before,, seeing given stuff is ??? swim dont know, rp is rp,,, it was on the paper yet, suse was dg green box 60's, washed with denatured, dryed, looked nice ( pinwheels alot), but may have burned it in oven, it was low low though,, nuther boo boo, swim was nappin so it was a really quick dream so no biggy on lose, swim does see jar wiff mix( lye, water, some salt on bottom.) wonder if swim should try water pull on it. cant pull anything with np, if theres anything ( should be ido e at the least!!!) used 1/2 a bottle of RD lye on it,,, for 7 g's?.

gonna dream the reg dream, with naptha,better muratic, wash wash wash. bummed though, really want some decongestent, got the damn winter flu bug, thanks to other 1/2.

damn battery in car's dead ona sun night, bla bla bla...................

there it is, flameing encouarged

rnx57 , peace

quote:there it is, flameing encouarged <A HREF="http://users.telenet.be/eforum/emoticons4u/violent/sterb082.gif">http://users.telenet.be/eforum/emoticons4u/violent/sterb082.gif" width="90" height="90 (http://users.telenet.be/eforum/emoticons4u/violent/sterb082.gif" width="90" height="90)</A> hehe..... j/k!!







Jam.

255g of RDL for 7g of goodies? Dang!

posted the way to do it a while ago. look around. Swim found a babyblue color with a wash of IPA, thinks its glue(?)

Scrub off strikers with Acetone & toothbrush.

Filter the acetone out, this takes the paint out.

Filter with IPA, takes blue glue out.

React with HCL acid, chews cardboard etc out.

Clean with 5X water. leaves fine MBRP dust.

Dry. Done.

ya kman, and it still is not lye locked, took a peak this morning, got 3 layers, some coleman on top ( tinted blue, bluejean blue), the lye layer, water layer on bottom.

theres gotta be something in there some where, just not sure what to try other than naptha pulls after more lye? , mabey pull water layer out n try again, shit, my;s well get swims io back anyway.swim went by jam's way to mix the 4 7 7 most times swim uses 1/2 the weight in suse in dh20, but wanted to try jams way of no dh20 less it was needed, it melted down nice to a good lookin mud, bubbled nice, smelled good at end, just cant find my shit no where......

took day off due to cold, gonna go get some things n play ina dream just for shits n giggles. see if swim can find something.

now bare in mind, suse was cleaned up nice, but swim put in oven with wet rp on low low to slow dry, 3 hrs later rp nice n dry, but suse turned just a tad yellow, wonder if it ruined the suse,,, suse tastes good? believe it or not but when suse is super clean it is sellable here as meth as there is very little meth around these parts and of course urs truley cant get it right, lmmfao

bee safe

rnx57

[This message has been edited by RNX57 (edited 01-05-2004).]

Swim's heard that the blue color could be a rust inhibitor that is added to coleman's. Swim recommends an investment in wide range pH paper. Swim thinks that 255g of RDL would lye lock up to a quart of water, so thinks that your pH meter is really fucked up.

Eesakiwi, the 'tone doesn't dissolve the bristles of your toothbrush? Swim wonders if one of those wire brushes might not work better, the kind about the size of a toothbrush, that one can get in any hardware store.

Nah, its just an old toothbrush, melt the neck with a lighter first and bend it to a 45 deg angle, slip some gardenhose onto the handle.

The wire brush will dig out bits of cardboard from the box. so don't use.

Don't soak the match books.

You want to be able to put the match book ( cut the backs off it first, so you have two brown strips, one on each side of the frount panel.) into a small 5inch dish with 100ml acetone, and scrub from the frount panel forward and down to get the MBRP off into the acetone.

After a while of scrubbing Mbooks the acetone will 'fill up' with MBRP, you will see grains of MBRP still on the strips.

Pour loaded acetone into a glass jar, and start up again with some more clean acetone.

Towards the finish you can use the acetone that the MBRP has settled out of.

Chuck the cardboard and matches into a garbage bag, dispose of it properly, if you set fire to it, start from the top, or all the heads will burn ,making lots of stinky smoke, then the wood will go charcoal and burn badly. Take into account (if you put it in the rubbish,) that someone is garanteed to throw a lit cig butt in on it.

To filter, get a funnel, a grommit (i love that word) that fits onto the funnel neck airtight,a pasta sauce jar and lid.

Cut a hole in the lid to fit the grommit ( be bloody (sic) carefull its sharp.

Seal round it with silicon sealant.

Put the funnel into the grommit for a airtight seal.

Heat up the jar by putting it into near boiling water, slowly, so it don't break.

Oh put 10ml acetone in jar.

Stuff a chunk of cotton wool into the funnel neck, real tight, push it in with a spoon handle, it'll still work and best tight.

Take the jar out and put it on a wooden cutting board or such, so it don't break.

Fit cap and funnel.

Pour acetone/MBRP mix into funnel.

The cooling jar will suck the acetone thru the filter, leaving MBRP in funnel.

If the drips get down to 1 per 8 seconds, chuck acetone into other container and carry on as again, evap acetone to see the paint if you want, its 50/50 MBRP/paint.

Put MBRP onto a sheet of ali foil and let it dry (it not very wet as the vac pulls out moisture too).

Do the whole thing again but with IPA.

You will find a baby blue colored glue?

Ali foil tray again, dry.

Now put MBRP into a glass jar and cover it well with HCL acid.

Let it react with the cardboard in the MBRP. When its finished, add 5X water, let settle, pour off water.

Funnel again, with say,5X water.

Remove and dry on foil again, crush with a plastic something. Not metal it can ignite!

Can't remember the box/MBRP ratio now.

Its still got glass in it, so its called MBRP not RP.

MBRP= MatchBox Red Phosphorous

IPA = IsoPropal Alcohol

HCL = HydroChLoric acid = Muriatic acid



Happy Happy Joy Joy.

What a lot of woik. I saw some nice RP on ol'

eBay: Only $900 for 500g. Good huh?

What about tank cars? One derailed nearby, it

had I guess a 100tons of P acid. Though from

browsing, it looks like there's dozens of P

acids, that on closer inspection, aren't the

pure thing. Some ethyl, methyl amino shit or

such.

You'd think P being so common that somewhere

between strikers & $900, there would be a

way that didn't involve organoP death.

Not every P compound is safe to get near eg.

pesticides/war poisons. Of course, no one is

watching matchbook. Yet.

"Hey! Punk! Why you buying matchbooks? Real

men use BICS! Security! Security! We gots a

punk in the store; uses matches, not a Bic

like a 4real man."

if you by rp off ebay you got more balls than swim does and well your an idiot

[This message has been edited by sitbcknchill (edited 01-08-2004).]

if you buy RP off Ebay you will find that before the transaction is done you will be asked for your permit. permit you say??? yes, in the USA you must have a permit from the DEA to purchase RP. if it dont tell you that in the bidding details then something is wrong and either the seller and yourself can wind up in jail or its cops fuckin around just to see who bids on the shit etc. if you think Ebay wont give up your info you are wacked in the head. if it was that easy do you think 9 million motherfuckers would be scraping matches? SWIM read on a certain matchbook manufaturers website that they make 10 million books of matches a day and last year sold 2.1 billion books. thats 42 billion matches. surly there arent that many lighter challenged people. and this is only ONE manufacturer of matches. think about it.

&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt; needa these matches for the reception.... hehehe.

rnx57

I hardly ever use my "R" more than twice.... Guess I could start taking bids.....

just as a tid bit of info here..... a half bottle of red devil on 7g's is WAY to fuckin much. shit man you probaly could have brought that PH up to par with 4 big spoonfulls. There is definetly something wrong here. There is no way that your solution isnt lye-locked all to fuckin hell. seriously that is a fuckin buttload of lye. but if it didnt lye lock like you said, I dont know what to say, you might want to try gassing with some different murry, or seperate the layers and try a another A/B with a real NP like naptha or whatever your favorite is. Colemans sucks and you definetly want to stay away from it.

I am trying to get my batch of RP from the strikers off of road flares. There are bits of plastic in my scrapings. Figuring out a way to separate those from the RP probably won't be too hard. Do you think that I should go through all the purification steps that the matchbook folks go through?

quote:Originally posted by Gordon853:

I am trying to get my batch of RP from the strikers off of road flares. There are bits of plastic in my scrapings. Figuring out a way to separate those from the RP probably won't be too hard. Do you think that I should go through all the purification steps that the matchbook folks go through?

depends on if you want to do some possibly unneeded xtra work now or run the risk of a possible failed rxn, waste of E, I2, time, and that gloomy "theres no dope commin back outta this shit" feeling. next time soak the RP off the plastic with some denatured alky instead of scraping it off and that will cure the plastic bits problem. make sure you get that shit out before it go`s in the flask. remember the golden rule: crap in, crap out

SWIM would clean that shit till he thinks its clean and then clean it one more time.

Thanks for the advice Wicked_Rain. Better safe than sorry.

A couple of years ago I used flares which came from the railroad. Easiest way I found was to go through and remove all of the caps (where the R is) from the flares. Take all of your caps and drop them in a bucket (I guess size depends on how many caps you have) and pour some "tone" on them and work the bucket in a fast circular motion. The caps will spin around in the bucket and in 5 minutes all the "r" is removed. I then filter with a piece of aluminum window screen pouring into a large dish. After you have filtered and the caps are in your filter put them back in the bucket and pour on another splash of "tone" and shake to get any remaining "r" that might have collected in the caps, then filter like before. After you "r" has settled in the pan pour off the tone. You might also save the "tone" poured off as it will continue settling if you pour off too quickly.