ok i got to ask for someone.



say so n so is about to lye say a 6 g batch after cook n dh2o, he would add lye till it looks like.... what. As so n so dont have ph meter or paper and is tired of tryin to lye lock it and git it right... any info stuck on shoe will be greatly apperciated...

this is a rp/io rxn say around the 3-6-6 size????

thanks. rnx57

why are you trying to lye lock it,,,,,,,,,and dont you just add more lye in small increments till you see the product precipitate

sorry kirb, i aint to gramma smart, particapate means, really kirb swim does lye lock cause swim dont got a meter, and in nano batchin u just lock it to be sure, but of course swim has gone a bit overboard on lockin, and has to work harder when it dont gas for swim, allthough drying np even if it wont gas has brought swim what he wanted, just wondered if anyone read what it would look like if it was lyed just right, like layers, or... hell swim dont know, when class was in no notes where aloud and swim was ( hands on ) so swim missed some visuals, like what it looked like after teach lyed and metered to have a ph of 12-14.

sorry for sounding ,,, LAME swim guesses, but missed important things while in other areas of class,and without ameter must guess it, which swim done ok once or twice, but last few dreams really gassed rotten and swim had to work to get it back...

thanks kirb for explaining

rnx57

mmmm , dang kirb i believe i member something like,,,,, when so n so add lye, such n such added lye mix to the rxn with distilled, till ph read 12 or ( off in da red side) then added naptha, stirred a BRAIN up, then added small amounts of lye till he seen heat waves in the np,,, is that what u mean?.. i kinda though there should be 2 layers after lyeing to 11 to 14 range, shit swin has seen nasty crystals of lye in swims shit on the bottom, so is known its to damn much, what if so n so was to lye a bit, then np, brain it, pull , try a gassin to see if np pulled the base????? swim hates the fact swim cant find a damn meter ( and broke). swim nanos, meaning 4 to 10 g batches for swim and the cronies. so a total loss is not a heart breaker., swim dreamin tryin a little n workin it....

rnx57

Switrd uses the ph meters you get at wal-something or other. Anyway, they're used for pool maintainence. Check around that section or just go to a pool maint. store. They're not that expensive. I think he paid $10-15 for a small bottle that contains a bunch of test strips.

yep, swim seen these strips bout 8 bucks and should have jumped on it,, think ill look a bit before da dreaming stage,, thanks for info... arent they hard to use, swim did find a shorter (brain jar) so guess's it would be easyer, takin a ride in this dream see if swim can find them again,,,

PEACE rnx57

The strips I speak of are super simple to use. You simply place a drop of whatever it is you are testing on that part of the strip, then on the side of the bottle they come in....is a chart to compare it to. Couldn't be easier.

Tired--

I thought old uncle wally only had paper that hovered around the neutral line. Maybe 4-8 max. Are you saying you have found full range paper or even up to 10-11? It would be nice. Just a tip, but if you are quick, ebay will have a couple of hundred for 8-10 bucks now and then. When you get them, cut them in thirds (because you can, that's why) and you will have about 600 or so. That oughta hold ya for a week or two. That damn iodine recovery eats up some strips.

OK, RX-7--

Speeding right along.

Lets say you have a 20% solution of NaOH, and devil boy is just fine. Somebody tell me, is that 80mls. water and 20g. NaOh, or is that 20g. NaOH and brought up to 100mls total volume. One of you chem students check your book about the making of % solutions using a solid and a liquid, please.

Anyway, I would go with the second method until otherwise convinced. That will be ample volume to base your 6g cook. Actually it will be about 4 times what you need, but you will have to wait until I can go through the notebooks and find an actual documented experiment on the subject, and I won't be going back over there until afternoon or evening or the next day or.....ok, whatever. Here's what you may want to do.

Mix your solution, stirring it well with a plastic stick (or wood). Let it sit until it is no more than very slightly warm to the touch. It should be crystal clear. Stir you rxn fluid and get it spinning pretty good. Then, while it's still spinning, add maybe 10 mls and get it stirring again. It will change colors as soon as you add the base, but then quickly change back. Wait a few minutes then do it again. Then again with 5mls. base. Now, you are getting pretty close (well, not acording to a pH device, but the closer you get the more sensitive to change it becomes). Now you are going to do the same routine, but use only splashes of 1/2 to 1 ml each time. The color change will stay longer and longer each time and then become cloudy. This is where there is a great deal of variance between individuals, cleaning methods, temps, etc.

Think about this. When it has gone all the way, you will see a definite color change that does not go away. Most of the time it will be milky white. Dont worry if it goes nasty brown (it's something about the iodine) that's ok. You will also see turbidity which means that the cloudy white or brown or whatever color solution will look like there is.......maybe you will see it as thickening or crap floating in it, how about cottony lookin shit in it. It all depends on how you see things. For those who know a few chem terms and what they look like, turbidity and flocculance typically means that you are there. Always make sure you have at least SOME of your NP in there before you go too far so that your freebase will have somewhere to go.

Speaking of which, I gotta go.

i havent done this,,so dont take it as gospel,,but,,if you add dnh20, its to wash the crap out of the meth and remove any remaining redphos,,,the eph turned into meth still should be a freebase and not soluble in water,,,i dont see the reason for lye,,the wavy lines (heat waves) he saw in the naptha is the methoil in solution,,which is a good sign ,,,you should be able to just add the naptha to the mix, stir for awhile,,dry and gas,,,,i was under the impression lye was only used in the A/B,,or it is when birching anyway

damn gotto, swim bets he fried his shit, how swim got anyting is beyond the dream, swim thinks he saw the cottoney look one time, as swim did right once or twice, so if swim gets it like u describe, does pullin lower the ph, does swim need to dribble some lye mix into the np just after addin np? , also u say have some in to catch base if mistaken to high,,, so sswim puts a bit of np in to base mix, then lye to proper ph, then add np n pull.. thanks for the insight gotto.



kirb, i know u right on that area, swim remembers heat waves in np was a good sign, and swim members the teach and lye needs to be used as a rp/io mixed with dh2o to quench a bit, then say np before lye would only pull gakk and shit, base will no tranfere untill its made at least 11 ph, swim thinks anyway, so gots to do the lye trick for ph.... thanks fur da input kirb, swim wishes he had accses to annie just to get the nitty gritty on an old pros view( whoever dat would be? )... cuddo's fellas.. anything else will be absorbed as so far its swims only hang nail on da foot so ta speak..

PEACE. be safe

RNX57

Depends on how you want your 20% NaOH to be w/w or w/v ?? (in large batches it is very important to have this specified as always the bigger the batch the greater the error).The first is w/w since 80ml of H20 is 80g anyway. The second is w/v ..both are 20% but you have to know what to shoot for w/w or w/v. If this helps all "commercial" comodities are done w/w.. If you are using a solid and want w/w it dont matter if you are using solid and liquid for w/v in a volumetric than be sure to let the solution cool ( if exothermic/endo)to at least room temp before filling to volume!!

So both proceedures can be correct depends on product..If your devil is 100% and you are only making 100ml then i prolly wont matter a whole lot, if you are making litres then it is a different story. I can test the whole shebang if it worries you that much and can give you margin of error?? Guess it depends on the application as to whether it matters or not.

Thats all i can add to convo !!

Sorry

[This message has been edited by Spook (edited 09-27-2003).]

The "Lye Lock" method makes perfect sense to SWIL, regardless of how primative it may be. It is very easy to teach, and the Methamphetamine molecule remains unharmed through this approach. Very wise... yet, all too simple!

It is NO wonder that the original Orange GaKK is aimed at exactly this method of extraction!

Nobody ever saw the orange shark until pH 14 was reached, and by then, it took some serious patience and cautious Non-polar extractions to side-step this monster! (Settling of the "salmonella", and passive NP solvents seem to be the method of choice!)

Instead of "Lye Lock", try this instead:

Ala MonkeyBoy, To reach a pH of 12:

Add a 20% basic solution of the base of choice(NaOH seems to be the most plentiful and "pure", however; sodium bicarbonate, sodium triphosphate, etc. will work). When the aqueous layer becomes milky white and clears within several(4-6) minutes, the pH of 10-12 has been reached. One can also tell that a pH change has occured, as many "bubbles" rise from the lower layer towards the organic(upper) layer. With more experience, it is VERY easy to accurately judge the amount of amine movement by watching the aqueous layer.

To reach a pH of 14:

After a pH of 12 has been reached, and 1/2-1 hour has passed, the aqueous(bottom) layer should be quite basic... yet clear on the upper half and milky white in the lower half(possibly dark orange if GaKK infested!)...

...Upon the second addition of basic solution(20%), within several minutes the lower(aqueous) layer will not clear of the milky white coloring. Upon settling, the lower layer will appear clear, yet it appears to contain some type of translucent substance in it(much like that of a NP solvent filled with Freebase amines).

Although the "Lye Lock" method works, there is NO need to go over-board with the basifying process. More is less in this step, as is a selective solvent!!!

Good Lukk, and as always, BEE Safe!

Lukky D

[This message has been edited by lukkydleprachan (edited 09-27-2003).]

now dat will help swim a hell of alot, just what swim was lookin to see and hear, now swim has a basic idea what to look for rather than dribblin till locked,, dream time in a hr or two, gotta take my sleepin pill for proper dreams, lookin like 3 gs rp. so ima try bout 9 gs of suse/io... let bake , betty crocker time... will be slow n even and very observant this dream time...

thanks for ya time lukky, PEACE man.

be safe RNX57

PS, swims last dream looked Locked, but when gassed notta, scum on jar side at most,swim thought well fuck me.. so swim boiled off da naptha, low and behold some thing was in dar. so scrape scrape,, icked dark gray black crap.. course had to try it, 15min goes by, try another,, 15 min and swim startin ta grind teef,, mm liken it... biff , swim washed it with tone to get a light gray look to it. invested 17 bucks, eager cronies (lent me ) 125 bucks plus swim and da mouse got there share..good ending.. wonder if lockin to hard stops np from pickin up base.. nothin worse den a dream where gassin goes ta hell. hopen for a good dream today as swim knows more of what to watch for in da blurry dream...

[This message has been edited by RNX57 (edited 09-27-2003).]

Code 9590 -- ColorpHast® pH indicator strips Non-bleeding, pH 0-14, 100 strips to a set ($9.95)

Code 9583 -- ColorpHast® pH indicator strips Non-bleeding, pH 6.5-10.0, "Narrow range," 100 strips to a set ($9.95)



Maybe these weren't from wally....sorry bro.

[This message has been edited by LwaysTired (edited 09-27-2003).]