I know this is a re-run question, but I'm now copy and paste ready!

I've baked my epsom salt at 500 degrees for 2 hours (actually, a bit longer...its a little charred on bottom. Is this o.k.?)

How can I fully utilize my drying agent?

"Dry" acetone seems to be a must to the experienced "craftsman"...If I recall correctly, 3-5 knuckle size portions added to a gallon and allowed to set for a couple of hours and then filtered off gives you "dry" acetone.

What other similar uses (solvents, etc.) are suggested?

Now, for drying of reagents, etc.

Should it be crushed to fine powder or left in chunks (w/shake)?

Any good systems for drying with processed epsom?

All input will be appreciated... and saved to avoid future inquiries.

Thanks

hi str8 ya cow lovin bugger

yeah its ok burning it a bit, but chip it off if you can--if you cant, no biggy---just not a good habit----its a handfull of knuckle size pieces for every litre (a litre is about a pint and a half for those of you partial to bovines)---a bit more is far better than a bit less,,and a bit more never hurts----then shake it up for 3 mins--and let stand for an hour or two--the larger the volume the longer let it stand--DO ALL YOUR SOLVENTS---every one of them---the only one you dont have to do is the ephedrine extraction solvent---being the solvent you use to extract the ephy from the pill mass---before using the dried solvent, filter out the epsom to get those last grains out

Thanks Kirb,

Any suggestions for drying of reagents (the big 3)? Or am I off on thinking that epsom is equally valuable in this department?

Do Australian girls have pouches?

yes you dry reagents with epsom--and no they dont have pouches---the size of there mouths make up for it though

quote:Originally posted by kirby:

hi str8 ya cow lovin bugger

yeah its ok burning it a bit, but chip it off if you can--if you cant, no biggy---just not a good habit----its a handfull of knuckle size pieces for every litre (a litre is about a pint and a half for those of you partial to bovines)---a bit more is far better than a bit less,,and a bit more never hurts----then shake it up for 3 mins--and let stand for an hour or two--the larger the volume the longer let it stand--DO ALL YOUR SOLVENTS---every one of them---the only one you dont have to do is the ephedrine extraction solvent---being the solvent you use to extract the ephy from the pill mass---before using the dried solvent, filter out the epsom to get those last grains out

SWIM agrees with everything kirby said. SWIM uses about 1 cup worth in a gallon. SWIM likes to use the larger chunks. also a small tidbit that most will prolly say dont make any difference but believe SWIM it does especially if you need the solvent asap. when SWIM grabs a chunk out of the jar before he puts it in the alcohol or tone or naptha he blows it off real good. you will see a superfine dust cloud lift off it when you blow on it. this will pass thru a filter and takes days to settle 100% as its so fine (hence the large chunks to start with) always pour your solvent in the jar first then take your chunks of epsoms one at a time and put them in the jar by setting the chunk on the surface and letting it go. the less you powder the epsoms the easier the solvent is to filter. dont believe me? then pour the whole cup in all at once and watch the superfine cloud of dust leave the epsoms chunks and disipate into the solvent.

SWIM does however disagree with you kirby on what you said

about not using dryed solvents for pill cleaning, as any water in any amount in your solvents you mix with your pills can activate the gakk in the pills that makes an extraction almost impossible. remember before the water activated gakks we simply used cold water extraction. heet as a general rule has no water in it but if it did you wouldnt know it cuz the alcohol absorbs the water thats why its used in car fuel tanks to absorb the water and thereby making it pass thru your fuel system and burn. if you buy heet new from the store im sure theres no need to dry it but SWIM gets his from a buddy that burns it in his race car (methanol alcohol) and he gets it straight from the drum so due to condensation factors he always drys it as well. SWIM has come to the conclusion that in each and every step of any process he use dryed solvents only, as its easier to do so than to find out later that you shoulda dryed it. see what i mean? anyone can get in a hurry and wing it and hope for the best same as any one can dry each and everyone of his solvents, alcohols or whatever he may be in the habit of using from start to finish. SWIM even drys his 91% iso altho how much water he is actually removing from the 91% iso is debatable lol SWIM drys his tone, naptha, colemans, toulene EVERYTHING. the only time SWIM will use anything that hasnt been dryed first is the acetone on the match strikers to remove the RP thats the only time it dont matter in SWIM`s opinion. ill tell you another trade secret. others may argue this to but SWIM has seen it with his own eyes many times. take a gallon glass jar and you can see too. pour in your colemans gently add 1 cup of blowed off epsom chunks and let it set 4 or 5 days and the blue colemans will turn crystal clear. the epsoms pulls all the rust inhibitor (which is what causes colemans to be blue) into it. funny thing is when the epsoms draws all the blue out of the colemans it turns the surface of the epsoms salt reddish/pink, crazy shit huh like i said tho it does take 4 or 5 days to pull the blue out and turn it crystal clear but it sure makes the final product taste more pleaseant than using it still blue. SWIM discovered this on accident cuz as soon as he gets home with ANY solvent the 1st thing he does is dry them wether he needs them in the near future or not. well he made up a gallon of colemans on epsoms salt and forgot about it. a week later he found it and it was crystal clear and the epsoms surface was ruddy red/pink. these are the things SWIM has learned from hands on doing and personal experiences that no one likes to take time to type and they dont teach at any college. i guess the reason i typed all this was cuz you said you was copieng and pasting lol



[This message has been edited by Wicked_Rain (edited 08-28-2003).]

Wicked Rain, you're a charm!!!

A liter is more than a pint-and-a-half. A liter is over two pints, and also more than a quart.

a pint is 600mls

a fifth of a gallon is 750ml roughly, (1/5)

quote:Originally posted by kirby:

a pint is 600mls

this ^^^ is incorrect, a pint (16 ounces) is 473.17647 milliliter.

a liter is 1000 milliliters

1 fifth = 757.08236 milliliter

for those of you that are like SWIM and are conversion challenged here is an addy that will cure your woes:

http://www.sciencelab.com/data/conversion.shtml

an excellent conversion table that will convert ANYTHING to ANYTHING such as:

Weight Conversion: Pounds, Ounces, Kilograms, Troy Pounds, Scruples, Grams, Carats, Pennyweight, Poundals, Stones, Slugs, Quarter, Metric Tons, Short Tons and Long Tons.

Metric Weight Conversion: microgram, milligram, centigram, decigram, gram, dekagram, hectogram, kilogram.

Temperature Conversion: Celsius, Fahrenheit, Rankine, Reaumur, and Kelvin.

Length/Distance Conversion: Millimeters, Centimeters, Inches, Feet, Yards, Meters, Kilometers, Miles, Mils, Rods, Fathoms and Nautical Miles.

Volume Conversion: Liquid and Dry. Liters, Fluid Ounces, Pints, Quarts, Gallons, Milliliter/cc, Barrels, Gill and Hogshead.

Speed Conversion: centimeters/second, meters/second, kilometers/hour, feet/second, feet/minute, miles/hour, knots and mach.

Angles Conversion: Gradients, Radians, Degrees, Minutes, Seconds and Points.

Energy Conversion: Joules, Btu, calories, electronvolt, erg, watt hour, therm, toe and tce.

Pressure Conversion: dyne/sq cm, Pascal, poundal/sq foot, Torr, inch H2O and inch mercury.

Area Conversion: Square centimeter, Square meter, Square inch, Square foot, Square mile, Square Kilometer, Acres and Circles.

Density Conversion: kg/cubic meter, lbm/cubic foot, lbm/gallon, aluminum, copper, gold and water.

Power Conversion: Watts, BTU/hour, foot-lbs/second, Horsepower and kilowatts.

Force Conversion: Dyne, gram-force, poundals, newtons, pounds and kgm-force.

Astronomical Conversion: Astronomical unit, light-years and parsecs.

Acceleration Conversion: Acceleration constants. g-unit and meter/square second.

Torque Conversion: Pound-force Foot, Pound-force Inch, Kilogram-force Meter, and Newton meter².

Frequency Conversion: Hertz, cycles per second, revolutions per second, degrees per second and radians per second.

ENJOY

bumpin this so you guys can get the heads up on the conversion chart addy.

id hate to argue---but a pint is 600ml approx

quote:Originally posted by kirby:

id hate to argue---but a pint is 600ml approx

id hate for you to argue to kirby cuz you would be wrong lol the conversion chart is not wrong for one thing and just to prove the fact i have in front of me a bottle of isopropyl alcohol. on the label it says:

91% isopropyl alcohol

16 ounces

1 pint

473 milliliters

check it out for your self bud. would you like me to post a couple other conversion sites to back up the one i posted here? or perhaps scan the label on the bottle of iso?

im not trying to be argumenitive here or disrespect you as you are a smart man but in this case you are simply wrong.

SWIM will give you another trade secret:

SWIM takes the smaller granular pieces of dried epsoms and two coffee filters, pours 1/8th of a cup into the two coffee filters, twists the filters into a tail with the epsoms inside them. ties off the tail with a small plastic zip tie so the epsoms cannot fall out. voila improvised moisture absorbers. add one to your jar of I2 crystals making sure to put a folded paper towel or 5 or 6 coffee filters between your I2 and your homemade moisture absorber. add one to your jar of processed RP. add one to your jar of extracted E, or to any whole pills you may have. your 3 reagents are now ready to be stashed in the woods or outside or under your house or where ever you may feel the need to put them when you want them out of your house. they will be free from any inherent moisture caused by condensation from the warm days and cool nights.

SWIM`s cranium is full of little trade secrets like the ones above to make life easier

I don't know if anyone else does this, but I put 3 glass marbles in my lamp/flask to help stir...

Thanks Wicked! I love the little secrets, I've got a few too.

wicked,,we have agreed to disagree many times as friends should when they differ in opinions,,i go right, you go left,but we get there never the less,,on this stuffin pint thing,,i dont know wether its cause im from bumfuck australia but down here a pint is 600ml,,ive got a pint of milk infront of me and the sucker says 600ml,,and if you dont agree with me ill talk about you

may your echidna eat your flamin charts