 Re: Swigotta
Bill,
I do the post RXN workup a little different than Gotta, and I have the utmost respect for him, I don't want to say my post RXN workup is better, but I feel its certainly more comprehensible (the way I explain itis easy to understand) and cleaner.
Get 2 VERY clean glass jars and a big funnel. Place a cottonball (snuggly) into the tip of the funnel and place 5 coffee filters into the funnel and wet them with a little Dh2O and place the funnel on one of the jars.
Add about 5 times the amount of your RXN fluid of Dh2O to your flask and swirl to loosen RP.
Pour fluid into filters. If you don't get all of the red, add a little more Dh2O and repeat.(if the RP is deffiant, you can boil it out or just rinse it good and boil it out later)
While its filtering (ideally in a very thin stream or a very fast drip) get a small glass container, a large shotglass works well, and fill it to about 20% of its capacity with Red Devil Lye, and fill it the rest of the way with Dh2O, stir and set aside to cool.
When the first run through the filters is complete, your fluid will probably still be dark and real cloudy, this is partly due to the RXN fluid still being warm.
Place the funnel on to the other jar and repeat. I repeat at least 3 more times, and on the last time when the fluid has finished filtering, I pou a little fresh Dh2O over the filter to rinse the red a bit more.
You should now have clear fluid, color will vary, but it should be clear. If it isn't, (even if it is this step isn't a bad idea) fit the funnel with a fresh cottonball and fresh filters and filter one more time. I'm not the most patient of cooks, but its crucial that the tiny particles of red and any other solids be filtered out to avoid emulsions and general contamination of your mother jar, so I filter well.
Remove funnel and set aside.
(I don't know what kinds of NP solvents you have, but I use xylene, which is very strong for pre-base cleaning but too strong for post-base pulling, and naptha which is about the cleanest non-polar solvent avialable, for pulling. Whatever you use, even if its just one kind for both steps, substitute with that.)
(Get a large jar to hold NP washes that are to be dicarded)
(These NP washes clean the trash out of the RXN fluid and are very important, don't worry, you haven't added the lye yet so your dope is still safe in the RXN fluid!)
Add an amount of Xylene equal to RXN fluid, aggitate (stir), allow to settle and syphon off. Repeat 2 more times or until NP solvent no longer removes color from RXN fluid.
Add an amount of Naptha equal to RXN fluid.
Pour a small amount of your lye/water solution into your jar and lightly and slowly stir. Allow to settle, and add a little more and lightly, slowly stir. Repeat this until your bottom layer goes to a milky white (color may vary, but it should be very milky.) Ideally, you want a PH of 14 or higher, which is usually achieved when your bottom layer goes milky, white. Other signs are a distinct fish smell and/or bubbles elluding to top, although, you don't HAVE to have these signs to be thoroughly PHed. Being slightly under or slightly over is OK. Just to be safe I test the PH on one of the 3-way pool test strips from Wal-Mart. I take a short length of 1/4" hose, hold my thumb over the end of it, lower it into the bottom layer, quickly release and firmly replace my thumb, come out and squeeze a drop onto the test strip. It should be a very loud, dark purpleish/pink color.
I syphon off the NP layer (Naptha) into a clean 1 liter coke bottle and add another equal amount of Naptha, stir and let set a couple of minutes and syphon it into the 1 liter bottle.
I then add about 1/5 the amount of Dh2O, screw on my trusty squirt top lid, and shake like a motherfucker. (The shaking is quite ritualistic and varies from cook to cook.) Shake for at least 2 minutes.
Using a 1/4" hose and the technique described above, get a sample of the bottom (Dh2O) layer and squeeze a drop onto a test strip. It should again be very high.
For the next step I use a glass eyedropper, but a visine bottle etc. will work.
Add a few drops of muriatic acid, swirl, squeeze off excess smoke, replace sqirt top lid and shake vigorously.
Remove lid and retrieve a sample as before, and sqeeze it onto test srip. It will still be too high. What you are doing is with the addition of muriatic acid, lowering the PH. You want to lower the PH to about 7 or 7.2, or somewhere close to that. With the small additions of muriatic acid it will take a while to get it that low, but you don't want to overshoot it and drop the PH too low, so you add a little at a time until you hit the target, so keep repeating these steps until you get to around 7.
When you feel your PH is right, replace your squirt-top-lid and give it one more super-shake, turn over and carefully drain only the water layer into a Corningware etc. heat ressistant container. Place on a hot-plate on very low heat with a fan blowing over the top and evap. (Despite what all these misers that say don't put it on heat say, you're not gonna' lose any meth to speak of. You can wait two fuckin' days or longer for it to evap without heat, or you can put it on low heat and lose about a fuckin' dollar or so's worth.)
When it starts to form a glacier over the now thick slow moving bottom layer, heat it a little longer until there's pretty much no liquid or movement left, get it hot one last time and flood it with cold, dry acetone. Swirl the tone around until all the meth glaciers have been loosened and all has been exposed to the tone. Try to gather all of the meth into one corner and slowly pan the tone off of it, leave the meth in the corner, and drain the acetone into a glass collection jar, which similar washes can be added to, to be later checked for meth.
Scrape your (ideally) beautiful, fluffy, white meth into a pile. Its ready to be used but you'll probably want to do a recrystallization, which I'm not going to get into.
I hope I was at least of some kind of help, and I hope a big, pissed Swiggotta doesn't kick my door down!
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2003-08-21, 17:59
