Swiss is frusrated and embarrased more than words can describe. He was making the fuckin' bomb, and to his knowledge, didn't change up his process, but the last several burns he's done have been shitty...Shitty quality, shitty yield. He's desperate for help and needs his totse bros!

He always used good clean red (tone wash 'til tone runs clear + hot muriatic wash + Dh20), Good crystals (chemhead style), Good E (E-gull), and he blended red and E, added to flask, then crystals, fixed flask to hose connected to makeshift condenser, and a punching baloon attatched to hose on top of condenser...He didn't initially add Dh20, so it would fire off good, and right after add about 50 units of water via a BD U100 (If he added water prior it seemed to flood the reaction)Started at 150 degrees and worked up to 180-200 until push stopped and then he turns the heat off and let it cool.

This usually produced the killa'...Then all of the sudden my reaction fluid started coming out dark and sweet smellin' and low quality low yield SHIT was produced...SWISS MAD! And it happened the next time and the next time. But this last time, Swiss tried hotter and longer than ever recommended, (pushing 300 degrees!) let cool, and repeated, and let cool and repeated again. This produced "ok" shit, but to Swiss "ok" is FAILURE! Please help B.R.O.E.S. (brotherhood of eternal sleep) before my man Swiss rips his own scalp off!

Hellathanks in advance, 'cause I know one of my bros has the 411 that'll get Shooter back where he belongs.

Hey Swiss...you said clean E? Swirh doesn't know much but sounds like a prob with the E somehow. Have you tried the VE method? Swirh does recognize that sweet smell hehe. Maybe some extra ingredients in the soup sounds like.

[This message has been edited by RedHorse (edited 07-11-2003).]

Thanks Red...Am offered a similar diagnoses, but what about cooking longer and hotter? This helped a little. This considered, would you still think the answer lays in the E? Did longer hotter just, perhaps, slightly combat the E contaminant? Or is the answer in the time heat equation?...

Now b4 ya get the wrong idea...Swirh is by no means an authority on anything--maybe some of the others can give a more defining answer... so that being said...

In all Swirh's research tho... higher heat means lower yields. Maybe the higher heat drives the reaction and/or makes whatever ain't supposed to be in there less active (Swirh has never gotten a response from the stuff--tho he has prob asked). That's right talk it out. Now, Swirh feels much better now. Sorry bout that--had a little senior moment there. Anyhow, Swirh would say that AM (just remembered you saying that hehe) would be right on and to trust his judgement. Anyhow... wish ya luck.

quote:Originally posted by Str8_Shooter!:



He always used good clean red (tone wash 'til tone runs clear + hot muriatic wash + Dh20), Good crystals (chemhead style), Good E (E-gull), and he blended red and E, added to flask, then crystals, fixed flask to hose connected to makeshift condenser, and a punching baloon attatched to hose on top of condenser...He didn't initially add Dh20, so it would fire off good, and right after add about 50 units of water via a BD U100 (If he added water prior it seemed to flood the reaction)Started at 150 degrees and worked up to 180-200 until push stopped and then he turns the heat off and let it cool.

This usually produced the killa'...Then all of the sudden my reaction fluid started coming out dark and sweet smellin' and low quality low yield SHIT was produced...SWISS MAD! And it happened the next time and the next time. But this last time, Swiss tried hotter and longer than ever recommended, (pushing 300 degrees!) let cool, and repeated, and let cool and repeated again. This produced "ok" shit, but to Swiss "ok" is FAILURE! Please help B.R.O.E.S. (brotherhood of eternal sleep) before my man Swiss rips his own scalp off!

Hellathanks in advance, 'cause I know one of my bros has the 411 that'll get Shooter back where he belongs.





Man. I dig your respect you portray as a newbie. Give respect and get it back in spaids!!

Hell, we all know I am no Guru here......but give us your weight of E and dope after your burn and also detail your route of dropping your PH(gas or liquid).

And since you got some BD-1-C C's you obviously fire up your gear right?!

What color and what feeling does a .25 gram slam do for you?!(please be honest here!! no:"I sho:eek t a gram at a time etc.)

What color is your gear and how cloudy is it in the rig?!

SWIL would try using the E-gull in combination with another cleaning technique. VE's newest "Straight to E" would be perfect.

Don't fire that shit that hot. It's probably degrading the pseudo before it has a chance to reduce.

Try much longer with less heat. 180-190 F for 36-40 hours will give some killer juice. Longer legs, and there should be much less side effects due to impurities formed from "High Heat".

Clean that E. That's probably where the problem lies.

If Shooter does in fact "boot" it, and there is no euphoric rush from unreduced psuedo, then it is a possibility that the 300+ temperature may be degrading both psuedo and meth.

Lukky D

Hey shooter--

When you rinse the meth with acetone to clean it up, you keep the rinse jar, right? Since there is some meth that goes through, you dry it out and do it again. When the jar no longer has any meth, is there a residue in the bottom? Is it oily, brown, and sweet smelling? If so, its aunt PEG in the pseudo and extra cleaning will put you back on top again. Xylene crash after you have done everything else will get that bitch out.

First off, thanks to all my bros (tryin' not to overuse this word, but hell, it's true ain't it?...and "ain't" is a word in Texas!)

Sup Jam. My E? 8-38g's., I've never managed to get back more than 40% unfortunately. On my p.h.ing, I try to slowly raise the ph to +14 w/ lye Dh20 sol. although I don't know how to really know what the ph is past 8.9. I use those 3-way strips from WM for pools and 8.9 is as high as they indicate on the box, so I pretty much try to get it a bright-ass shade of that color and keep adding until I feel like I'm about to, or see emulsions or lye lockage. I always look for it to go milky then white,and get the "fish smell", but I don't remember ever getting white, just green or brownish, and all I ever really smell is naptha. Anyway, I clean it with hot NP, (naptha usually, and have been getting pretty clean afterwash NP) basify it, trying to hit 14 w/ naptha double the rxn fluid, (rxn fluid about 3-4 times as much Dh2o) syphon off into 1L plastic bottle (w/ sqirt top lid), repeat, add 1/4-1/3 amount of Dh2o, shake the dog-fuck out of it and add a few drops at a time of muriatic 'til I test out at about 7.2, drain Dh2o into the 'ol trusty corningware vessel (wish I had Vision), And put on hot-plate and evap Dh20 (probably at much too high of a rate), when I get slow moving "glaciers" I usually blow-dry, then I get it hot and hit it with acetone and work it around 'til it evaps and usually repeat if it looks dingy...then I'm done, I don't take it further to make what we call ice here, which incidently, all these dumbasses around here think is a complete different entity, but I very much want to learn to make "shards", from what I've read it seems pretty easy, but I've not really tried it due to my low yields and inexperience, I hate to fuck up what little product (its not that bad...or maybe it is.)I do get back.

On slammin' a 1/4g.- I don't do but 20 cents or .20g. and even my virgin burn, and the next few subsequent burns produced (first let me say this: I don't like exaggeration and the fact that I made the shit has no influence on my observations, and I have been "thick" in the "dope world" and shooting dope covering the (meth)spectrum for 9 years straight (I'm 26)so I did catch the ass-end of p2p for 2-3 years (also, don't judge me harshly, bros, as I've said before, I'm a bit more sophisticated than the vast majority of the backwoods,hillbilly,white-trash,etc."junkies".) But anyway, the 1st and next few burns produced shit that was LEGENDARY. .20 cents had seasoned vets coughing, looking for a fan or some cold water or some fresh air, with the quickness (some of these mutants regularly doing 70 unit masterblasters) .20 CENTS! I am a modest person and I don't like bragging, seeing the reactions and hearing the praise just gave me a "beautiful feeling" that I'm sure a couple of you have experienced.

Anyway it hasn't been that way lately which brings us back to the problem....The shit rigs up from clear to brownish- not cloudy, at least doubles back. Thanks, I hope I answered your q's well enough for you to more thoroughly diagnos.

Whats up Gotta. I'm sure my description above will answer the q's you proposed, because I'm not really sure what you mean as an acetone wash or what the "jar" your talking about is, but I'd like to learn. And on the xylene crash, I assume your talking about what would normally be my finished, powdered E- so assuming this is the case how would I crash it, it sounds like I would dump a little on the powdered E and pour off? Thanks man.

Lukky- I feel like your advice/suggestion in combonation with everyone elses E advice is whats gonna be just the thing! Although I'll probably only keep it on heat for 3-4 hours at 180-190 degrees. Does anyone else have an opinion on this? Thanks Lukky!

Thanks everybody.